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suggestions
410 rear ,t19 4speed hydro clutch ,f350 no engine, 87 octane build
usage haul car, drag trailer with car loaded, freeway miles 80 mph.
gas mileage well LOL:
have 385 dive aa out of Lincoln,10.30 block I think? is aa first production thin web?
list of parts I have for build.
4.39 bore
bc crank journal
4.140 stroke
6.70 rod
4032 srp -28 invert dome
dove c heads 74cc stock.
head gasket?
oil pump?
stealth intake
what is the question again ?
what combo of parts will work best?
cam, lifters, spring height.?
cc of combo?
carb?
head gasket?
any insight
Yeah, LOL for sure on the gas mileage concept, with this package.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
I'm thinkin' you are correct here, D1 was 1971 and I don't think they went to 10.322" until '72. Won't matter much anyway, you're probably gonna have to cut the decks to get to a zero piston deck so you can have a tight 0.040" squish to prevent detonation on pump gas. 9.0:1 with a 0.040" squish is what I'd be thinkin'.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
Not really a Ford guy, don't know. Maybe Denny knows. I doubt that it will be a problem anyway, I don't think you're gonna tear the webs out of the crankcase unless you go with a blower or N2O or both on nitromethane.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
I too would keep the cylinder walls as thick as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
I wouldn't spend money on changing journal size, not for a low rpm tow motor. I'd simply use the proper length for the crank and piston that I would use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
Nope, makes the static compression ratio too high for pump gas with the 74cc iron heads. Use the stock stroke crank and rods, unless you have to go stroker in order to find pistons with a large enough dish to bring the static compression ratio down to around 9.0:1 for running on pump gas without detonating the motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
I would only use a different rod length over stock if I had to in order to match up with the piston compression height to make the stack work out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
I'd use the largest dishes I could find for use with the 74cc chambers. I would want to make the static compression ratio down around 9.0:1 so that I could use a fairly short cam, 200 to 205 degrees duration @0.050" lift, that would put the peak torque down low in the rpm range for pulling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
O.K, but it will be tough to find pistons that will work to bring the static compression ratio down to where you want it to use a short cam. This is not a lumpy cam build.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
Composition, about 0.040" compressed. Cut block decks to zero piston deck height to make 0.040" squish to prevent detonation on pump gas.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
StockQuote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
Yes, good choiceQuote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
First gear ratio is 4.02, making a 16.482:1 final drive ratio with the 4.10 rear gears
Second gear ratio is 2.41, making a 9.88:1 ratio with the 4.10 rear gears
Third gear ratiio is 1.41, making a 5.78:1 ratio with the 4.10 rear gears
Fourth gear ratio is 1.00, making a 4.10 ratio with the 4.10 rear gears.
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What year F350 is this? I'd be finding a 7.3/5 speed and a 3.55 rear and enjoy not feeding this thing gas. :LOL:
crank and rod combo I think it makes 501 cc with 30 over bore?
with o deck block, 74 cc heads, -28 dish, 0.040 gasket what would be compression ratio?
would a hydraulic scj cam profile work well ?
what oil pump stock or high vol, high pressure?
also need to find neutral balance flywheel, clutch ,disk and throw out bearing ?
I appreciate all your help
truck is 86 it used to hove 460 in it. diesel is great just using what I have.
thanks the read was great its real important to have the 6015 between dive and aa.no 6015 no thick web. thats how I ended with this block thinking it was thick web,live and learn
10.17:1 SCR. I doubt it would work with iron heads on pump gas. You could change to D3VE heads that have 95cc chambers that would yield 8.72:1 SCR. That build would probably work OK on regular pump gas. If I wanted to gamble on a flat tappet cam, I might use a Crane 353902, although a better bet would be to use a hydraulic roller tappet cam due to changes in lubricating oil chemistry. The oil companies don't put extreme pressure lubricants in their oils anymore, so you must add zinc and phosphorus in the form of extreme pressure lubricants with every oil change.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
I see no need for any more oil pump than stock.
Call McLeod for the stick shift stuff.
http://www.mcleodracing.com/
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Here's a tutorial I wrote several years ago, after the oil companies stopped putting extreme pressure lubricants in the oil and we had a rash of cam and lifter failures........
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
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I have a set of d3ve heads I use instead. thanks
probably use flat tappet and add zinc.
353902 crane cam, springs and lifters
timing set 70 year straight up?
dizzy duraspark spring kit? coil?
what carb 600 vac secondarys
timing set at?
thanks for your help I only want to do this once
If you want 510 hp and about 610 torque with what you have now,6015aa block do not deck it (already short enough height) if you want to drive it on the street, stock 71 crank, DOVE heads, dished replacement pistons (forged or hyperutectic). Makes CR right around 9.0:1. Use the Performer RPM upper end kit w/out heads (all are matched to work together).port match the heads and intake to the intake and exhaust gaskets and smooth out the thermactor bumps in the exhaust ports on the heads. use high volume standard pressure Manley oil pump and drill out the oil entry galley to 1/2" to match pump but be careful to not go to deep. Always a good idea to increase pump volume on the 385 series blocks if you're towing or bracket racing. No need to spend mega bucks on the 1968 - 1971 BBFs they were under rated at 385HP stock (DOVE C or D1VE C heads) more like 410- 425 HP. Had a totally stock(flat top pistons about .040 below deck,stock crank and rods) 71 429 engine that I rebuilt and only cammed it up a bit (Crane camshaft) made 549HP and 624lbs.torque (max values). Had to use premium fuel and 104 octane booster even though I installed hardened seats on the exhaust with stainless replacement valves on both the intake and exhaust. Use a good double roller timing set (think it comes with performer rpm kit anyway). Ford BBs tend to wear out chains and gears when they are run hard and often. Stroked BB Fords are recommended for racing purposes and bragging rights only. I put the above mentioned engine combo in a 71 Cougar XR7 and it is enough to be scary, especially with a loose front end and almost no brakes - LOL! Additionally, shortly afterwards did the same build on a customer/friend 74 highboy 4x4 and he kept twisting driveshafts in half. After about 3 1/2 months he pulle dout that engine and stuffed a mildly built 390 back in it. With the performer RPM kit in it I'm relatively sure you won't have that problem. Glad you're not concerned about fuel mileage though cause it will be a gas eater unless you detune it and use a conservative carb (650-680 cfm) as the performer rpm kit I believe uses the 800cfm carb or spend a little more for the Fitech tb fuel injection setup. While the d3ve and up heads will work ok with decked block and flattops I wouldn't use them as they are severely restricted on the exhaust side. If you must use a set from 72 - up look for the police interceptor heads. Forget CJ or SCJ heads they are not about efficiency at all (you can almost stick your hand in the intake ports. Ford only put them in street cars (tuned down) to comply with NASCAR rules so that they could use them in the Talladega Torinos and Fairlane Cobras for racing. They were also popular in SS and some pro-street drag racing brackets. The Mustang and Cougar CJs and SCJs were very popular weekend warriors as well. However, you have to remember gasoline was only 28 cents a gallon back then and high octane fuel can easily be purchased at your local SUNOCO station. You could actually select octane level by turning a knob on the pump. If I remember correctly it was available up to 110 octane (almost aviation gas). Anyway have fun with your build you will be able to tow single wide mobile homes with your truck/engine combination.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rivithead
oh yeah forgot. Using an additive or oil (still available as specialty) that has it in the oil of any flat tappet (mech or hyd) engine is a necessity! Especially so in in a performance build.That is if you don't want to replace cams and lifters all the time and risk other serious engine damage from the metal pieces going through the whole engine!
Just noticed they're not making hyperut pistons for the 429 anymore. So, your limited to flat top forged units (custom cut dish) or stock cast pistons. Assuming you won't be racing then Sealed Power 413ap/cp will work with the DOVE heads 72cc. They have .120 dish which will have a 10.5:1 CR if .040 below the deck and .040 thick head gaskets. That's still to high for a tow/hauling truck. The afformentioned 1973 police interceptor heads would kick it down to about 10:1 with 80cc chambers and 9.5:1 with the D3ve heads 95cc. If you find a set of P.I. heads make sure they're not the standard police cruiser heads. think they are d3ae-fa castings.