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I'm finally assembling my .030 over 460. The machinist returned my rods torqued with new ARP rod bolts. I purchased a Proform rod splitter after the machinist here tried to split them with his rod vise. (He advised me that this is what I needed.) The proform splitter is not working either, even with 2 aluminium round spacers. Any ideas?? Small propane torch to lightly heat rod caps? Please help.
i fit the caps so you do not need a spliter if you can not get them off. its the shoulder on the new bolts i file out the holes in the cap till its a good fit with out a stick of T&T to get them apart .heat will not work and you do not what to do that . give them back and let him fix his screw up he recond you rods ? if so he should of knew better . if you tap the bolts back out they will come apart but there a good chance you could screw the threads use a old nut thread it on and tap the bolts down but then the rods still need to be fix .i recon alot of rods fitting the bolts is part of the job
Thank you Pat. The local guy didn't recon them, another machinist did while balancing the assembly and alignboring the block. I will return them to Dave (Hedahls' in Minot) to fix his screw up. Thanks so much.
it takes a lot of time to do a set of rods right some guys try cutting a corner or two. if i am not building the engine i break the caps loose and spilt the caps most guys do not have a rod vise
I loosen and split them also---no need for a guy to have his rods recond and then destroy them trying to get caps off. If they are that hard to get off, the bolt clamping force is probably screwed up and that don't have proper preload on bolts orcircle.
Probably used wrong bolts with knurlinb area too lond loading cap too much, ides is to locate, not pressure weld.
I'm very tempted to go out and try knock the bolts out, as I type, but will just hold my head low with a frown and return rods/pistons to the machinist Monday. I wish we had a guy like you out here! Although this guy, Dave, did catch a possible immediate leak- he speedy-sleeved my crank to timing cover spacer/ weight (1975 block), thus I thought he was a little better machinist! It'll be better to do it right this time, so I can wait. Thanks again Pat- I actually learned a lot. Gene P.
I can't remember which ARP bolts I ordered from Summit years ago, butI didn't use Wave-loc's; the ones I used in these 1975 rods are U, 3/4 moon shaped. Rods are C9AE 6210-B in 5,7,3,2 cyl; and C9AE-B (2 S) in holes 6,8,4,1. Would either of you guys have a recommendation on possible different bolts?
i can not tell you my ARP bolt book at the shop but looks like arp bolt 6004
rods are also stamped on beams with D00E on four of them and D6VE on other four?? Good I hope.
That is a non-issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by parpart