Engine won't start!

Hey guy's. I have finally finished putting my engine in my car and I can't seem to get it to turn fast enough to start. Some info is in order here so you pro's can help this weekend warrior. The engine is a 1970 460 with dove c heads which I had the machine shop install bigger cobra jet stainless valves installed. Hardened valve seats band a three angle job. The block has been bored 30 over and the crank undercut by 10. The pistons are sealed power dished with the two valve reliefs. The cam is just an edelbrock performer and the intake manifold is as well. the ignition was converted to hei and the valve train is except for the cam it si stock rockers and pushrods which are all brand new. The engine has spark and fuel but it seems to me to be dragging way to slow for it to be able to start. I dont think that compression is the problem as the pistons I used give 9.79to 1 with my heads. I have a powermaster starter that is rated at 10.00 to 1 max. I am at a loss here as to what is going on. I am guessing starter. The engine turns by hand although a little tight. What do you fellas think...............

WHat do you have for Hot and ground cables???

The battery is mounted in the trunk with a realocator kit I got from summit. I can't tell you for sure how thick the cables are gage wise but the ground at the battery in the trunk is attached to the bodythe engine itself is not grounded now that you mention it. Could that be a Factor? I did forget to attach gfround strap to the engine.............

That one will get ya every time.. I had a 460 once that was lighting the spring on the throttle cable up like a toaster element because of no ground cable to the body

those cables that come with the kit may not be enough.. 0 gauge is what you want. I think that kit comes with 2-3 gauge.. 00 welding cable is often used in this app

Could it be just that simple as a missing ground from the engine to chassis? It does crank though, Slow, but does crank.

It could easily be that simple..If it still turns slow have someone else crank it while you feel the cables for excess heat.. Any weak link or connection will get hot..It takes a lot of amperage to turn those 385 motors..

00 wire then. OK should I run the ground from the battery in the trunk to the front or grounding that one to the trunk floor is fine? Just replace the current cable from the batt to the solenoid under the hood with the thicker cable and add a ground cable from block to chassis?..................

I would add the ground cable first..That might be all you need. I have had to run a ground cable all they way up in some instances but I wouldn't do that if I didn't have to..Bigger cable never hurts but you might not need it..Are you using a remote solenoid?? Or just the one on the starter??

Remote. Onthe fender apron.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by topgun

Remote. Onthe fender apron.

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Make sure you have a decent cable from there to the starter as well...Ford always scrimped on those..

Just installed a 4 guage ground cable from engine to chassis and the engine turns overa little better but still not right. Suddenly I started to smell plastic and noticed the starter cable starting to fry. Isa 4 guage good here or should I install 2 guage or bigger here.I also noticed the batt cable from tthe trunk was starting to get a little warm too. Should I just yank all these cables out and just replace with 00 guage?................

It's almost impossible to over do it with cables

Thanks for your assistance. It is well appreciated. I will replace all the cables and see where I'm at then. If I still can't get a good cranking speed then I guess the last weak link could only be the starter itself.............Rich

Very interesting thread! There is a Miller shop near me and I was able to get 00 gauge welding cable for ground and hot wire to the solenoid. The local Miller shop squeezed on brass connectors as well. While there I got interested in the nice blue Miller 29 Model A with Ford-in-Ford construction and actually got a chance to see it up close at the recent NSRA Nats in Richmond. It is really a high quality rod!

http://www.millerwelds.com/dream/build-details.html

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

For the first few starts put a battery as close to the starter as possible with a short fat cable and same size ground. DC current likes a short path, especially for high loads. After it loosens up, you can put the battery back in the trunk. You'll probably still notice some cranking power loss though.

Well I finally got my engine fired up and ran it at a little over 1500 rpm for the recomended 1/2 hour and it ran fine. During that time I had the pet cock open and a water hose on to maintain cool water for the engine during the run in. I also set the timing and checked the trans. All went well. After the run in I set trhe idle to about 800 rpm and even though I didn't drive it yet I parked the car outside. I started and shut it down a couple of more times and it seemed all was well. Anyway As I stood there with it running I was just taking a couple of minutes to admire my work when suddenly I started to hear a slight ticking noise and the oil light went on. Now, The car has no guage just a light so I could not see the actual oil pressure but the pnmp is like everything in the engine, Brand new. I had also replaced the pump shaft. I have a oil pressure tester at work that I will bring home on Monday But I am wondering what could be going on here. Has anyone here had this occur and what could be the problem other than the pump? I am confident that I had performed the run in properly , Or Have I? Any opinions?