Engine rebuild kits

Since I'm faced with pulling my engine, it makes sense to look into rebuild kits. I'm running a 429 or 460 which I will know for sure when I pull the engine. Right now I'm pretty sure it's a 1971 Lincoln 429 with two barrell intake and carb, dove -c heads.. The engine runs fine as is, but the seals in the heads are falling apart, leading me to believe a rebuild, or at least valve job is in order.
It has good compression in all 8 cylinders, so I might just get the heads done now.
I have a Edelbrock Performance manifold and carb that are made for 429/460's. If I rebuild the engine, I'll put the matching Edelbrock cam in as well. I'm not shooting for a street /strip car, just a fun weekend hot rod(1948 Ford F1).
So with all the above said, any recomendations for rebuild kits that would be appropriate for the Edelbrock setup? Also about how much should I expect to spend either rebuilding it myself(with send outs for all machine work) or having it done. Iknow there are billions of options out there. I like the idea of doing it myself, but I'm a little rusty at this right now. As for the valvejob/headwork that is beyond me, so I'd punt that out to a machine shop!
On the same note the tranny was pulled from the same vehicle as the engine,and leaks fluid , so I'm looking into a rebuild for that too (C-6 Ford Auto).
This is my early work, financial eval. time!:LOL:

I should clarify the above. I'm looking for a good rebuild kit wondering about prices for 1)rebuild kit, 2) having transmission rebuilt, 3) heads being rebuilt, with new valves, and for unleaded gas.
I have seen long blocks for 1900.00 but don't know if they use quality parts, and what machine processes they follow.
Besides as I have heard before, why not try for my own hernia removing the crank!:LOL:

The way I've done it in the past Steve is to have a local shop do the machine work and then I order my own parts and assemble the engine. I have used PAW, Performance Auto Warehouse in the past with good results. They have packages that you can customize with upgrades to various brand name parts. For example, the base kit might have some unknown brand gasket set, but you can upgrade to FelPro or similar...........same with bearings, cam, etc.

I have tried to navigate their website and it is terrible as I remember, but they have a catalog that you can get. I think their prices are very competitive. I paid something like $ 89.00 for the cam and lifters in my '27 and they came in a Crane box. I have also found their phone people not to be as friendly as they could, but if you push back they usually get the message and are more helpful.

You might check them out. http://www.pawengineparts.com/

Don

the heads you have have a positive stop non adjustable rocker system on them. you will have to get the proper push rods and rockers also with the cam you choose. sorry, just added another 150 bucks to your build. they have 75.8 chambers, and 2.08 / 1.66 valves also. you will find the fords do not have a million options available like the chevys do. kinda steer away from the budget kits, like badger pistons and such. your rods and crank are good to have resized and polished for reuse. slap in a good set of flat top hypereutectic pistons, a good bearing kit and a new oil pump, and you will get a long lasting low maintenance motor.

Yeah, what Mooneye said.... I've used a couple of the Northern Auto rebuild kits with the hypereutectic pistons, work great for the street and a decent price, too!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Guys. All of that was very helpfull. As I get nearer to my goal, I'll repost this with parts specific questions.
I was told at work last night that my vacation request for my AK trip was denied. I have planned for three years to go on this motorcycle trip. I will protest their decision as where I work on swing shift, they only let one person go on vacation at a time, per specialty field. So I worked it out with all of my coworkers to get my vacation this year. It's pretty hard under normal times to do this. My bosses decided to let a senior worker with a different specialty go instead of me. I'm pretty pissed at this as it is not the way they have done things in the past.
What this means, is if I can't go, then I'll have some cash for a engine rebuild this year. It does make me frustrated though.

if its an original 2bbl eng its a 429, all early 460s had 4bbls. the heads are the smallest combustion chamber and do real well with f/t pistons. while you are at it pick up 30 more cubes by adding a 460 crank. that is if you are going to change pistons. bore it .060 and have more cubes. i think .090 makes it a 477. have built several with those heads and .060 bore.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 48fordnut

if its an original 2bbl eng its a 429, all early 460s had 4bbls. the heads are the smallest combustion chamber and do real well with f/t pistons. while you are at it pick up 30 more cubes by adding a 460 crank. that is if you are going to change pistons. bore it .060 and have more cubes. i think .090 makes it a 477. have built several with those heads and .060 bore.

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Why stop there??
Why not build a 514,532,??

I think the budget just calls for what it will be either 429 or 460 to whatever it needs to be bore out to. It's a big motor for an old truck with a tame guy doing most of the work:LOL:
Thanks guys!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stovens

I think the budget just calls for what it will be either 429 or 460 to whatever it needs to be bore out to. It's a big motor for an old truck with a tame guy doing most of the work:LOL:
Thanks guys!

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There I go again trying to build to much of an engine.:LOL:

Erik
don't get me wrong I like the tim the tool man more power approach!:D
Just don't want too many horses to tempt me into an act of stupidity!**) :toocool:

Steve, when you're planning your rebuild don't forget to browse eBay and Racing Junk.com.... Lots of used BBF stuff on there. It's a funny market though, sometimes the bidding goes crazy, sometimes stuff won't generated a bid..... I've bought a few things lately off racing junk, none of the eBay bidding BS, just get hold of the owner and make your best deal....

stovens,

I just noticed your location. We can build you an engine anywhere from bone stock and above. Cast pistons, forged pistons, stock rods, H-beam rods, ported iron heads or not....etc.

Of course, we don't do assembly line style work and more importantly we specialize in 460-based engines, period. Lots of personal attention, 460 insight, and frankly, love and passion. Obviously for these reasons our longblock rebuild will cost more than $1900, but we can take your engine in exchange/core. Turnaround time is not overnight, either.

PM me if interested...just putting it out there and I'd think nothing of it if you have other aspirations. :cool:

Paul

Paul
You have a wealth of knowledge on these blocks! Just spent a hour reading old threads for hp on the 460. I would like to stick close to stock using the stuff I have. Curious what kind of hp this will get. I'm not a speed nut and this will be a weekend cruiser, so pretty tame by your standards, but I'd like to hear what you have to say. Steve.
Reinterating the current parts list Weiand aluminum water pump
Edelbrock performer 2166 manifold
Edelbrock performer (1407)750 cfm carb
Mallory Comp 9000 unilite distrib and matching coil
Will be buying Sanderson FF462 headers made for this engine in the 48 Ford F1 setup
So with that said, ideas, suggestions, etc.. Thanks. Steve.

Once you have the engine torn down and know what you need, you might also want to looks at Summit and Jegs to comparison shop. Like Don I've had good luck with PAW, but in you case as your located in the same state I believe you will get charged sales tax.

Also look at what shipping will cost, a lot of times the little things can add up to a pretty big chunck of change when it all added up.

One other place you can find good deals on rebuild kits is www.northernautoparts.com

Thanks Guys. I'm planning on pulling the engine tomorrow when my neighbor is around to help muscle it out. As for draining fluids, the only one I'm not sure about is the auto transmission. Should I drop the pan, or ...? Also any ideas where to get rid of atf? Our garbage sevice will collect oil, but not ATF.