Shop Gatherings, Northern Virginia

We're doing seminars at my shop again this winter, there will be 1 each in Jan, Feb & March typically on a Sunday - i haven't picked the dates as yet.
We have guest experts come in and do indepth discussions on a particular subject to do with hotrodding, these subjects will include: brake theory and design; carb principles and rebuilding; ignition theory and distributor rebuilding; we'll simulate a cam change in a sbc and show how to degree a cam & we'll do the valve train stuff on a flattie; leading a sheetmetal seam; sheetmetal basics, shrinking and stretching; how to wire your hot rod.
Other subjects we want tp present are banjo rear ends and how to narrow them; how to get professional results with rattlecan painting.
There is no cost for the attendees and food is provided. None of the instructors are soliciting work...this is not an advertisement that is thinly disguised as an 'infomercial'.
The Gatherings are as much a social event as informative, they start around 10am and can continue until i kick everybody out. We try to cover a couple topics before lunch and then do a major topic, as in depth and hands-on as we feel we need to go - there are no restraints and everybody is encouraged to participate.
Depending on the subjects we there can be 30-40 people, so it is a good time.
I am looking for a guy that is willing to share knowledge on distributors, esp early point distributors and how vacuum works etcetc demo on my Sun 504 and be able to do indepth modern MSD style ignitions.
If you have comments, suggestion etc my email is...
ojh4@verizon.net my shop phone is 540-955-0479

Thanks, oj i will be doing updates, incl which days, the subject and the guest instructors

Here's some highlights of the metalshaping activities at OJ's sop gathering from two years ago....


Went to a metalshaping/body lead meet today hosted by OJ Higgins at his shop, Clarke County Speed in Berryville VA. I did the metalshaping demos, but didn't get pics of that. Supposed to get some pictures emailed/cd mailed from another guy there, so I'll add some of those later.

First pics here are of Tom Mancuso, who used to have a body shop in Long Island and learned leading from some of the masters back in the day..

Two flanged panels were tuck shrinked to form a radius. This was to simulate the leading edge of hood halves being welded together and leaded.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture001.jpg

Tom using tinning butter on one half and plumbers flux (liquid) with solder on the other, to demonstrate the differences.... The liquid flux tends to get down into cracks better, for a better flow of the body lead.

Adding the lead, pushing it into the joint...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture003.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture005.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture006.jpg


Rather than use a wooden paddle and tallow, Tom prefers a vintage soldering iron that uses external heat (the torch in his other hand) It seems to do a better job of managing the heat and "puddle". Even though he claimed he hasn't leaded anything in ten years, it was like old hat to him.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture008.jpg





http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture011.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture012.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture015.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture017.jpg


After our "hood" had a chance to cool, he demonstrated leveling the area with the vixen file.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture020.jpg



Our completed sample


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture024.jpg


I think Tom enjoyed another crack at flowing some lead....

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture025.jpg


Got some pictures during the break of some of the vintage tin outside....


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture027.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture029.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture028.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture031.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture030.jpg


Back inside for more work on metal, Dave gives a demo using the shrinking disc.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture036.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Picture037.jpg

To expand on the pictures from OJ's event here is an online friendly tech thread on shrinking that should have prefaced the lead demo.


I didn't get as many pictures as I normally do (too many hammers in my hands) so this will be supplemented with some diagrams and previous pictures so we can make a good tech thread.


Prior to Tom showing the body lead demo, I needed to make some panels for him to work from. We decided that a curved surface, similar to the front end of a 38 Chevy and its hood halves, would be a better fixture for showing the need for flowing lead up a slight incline. I started with two equal sized panels, and bent a flange on the long edge. Then discussed some of the issues faced when shrinking a flange. For demonstration purposes, in the following example we have a 12" long panel with a 1-1/2" wide flange.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...angedPanel.png

If we were to look at the same panel with a radius, formed by shrinking the flange, we would note dimensions similar to as follows:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...angedPanel.png

....where the 90 degree bend at the flange still retains its 12" length, the centerline of the flange in this case is shortened by almost an inch, and the outer edge of the flange shortened by almost another inch.

In working with the Lancaster/Eastwood style shrinker-stretcher machines, it is important to note that they are a linear device, the movement they introduce into the metal is in a straight line.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...hrinkDemo1.png

So that once a radius starts to form, and with the shrinking device still moving in a linear fashion, the outer edge of the flange will be put into tension as the centerline shrinks. Anyone who has used these devices will have seen this as the machine starts to lose its effectiveness.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...hrinkDemo2.png

To counter this effect, we need to shrink the outer edge of the flange more than the inner. By simply alternating the depth of the shrink as shown, you can provide more shrink to the outer edge and the device will become more effective.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...hrinkDemo3.png

Another method of shrinking is with the use of tucks. Looking at their shape, the tuck has a wider "gather" at the edge of the flange as compared to the inside bend of the flange, so this eliminates some of the tension issues seen in the mechanical shrinker.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...hrinkDemo4.png

Where the demos this past weekend were supposed to concentrate on using only hand tools so that the participants could readily duplicate the results without the need for a major purchase, we did find the use of the Shrinker a good comparison, and by chance the tuck shrinking did prove to be faster and more effective.

For the tuck shrinking, one can use tucking forks, rounded jaw pliers (by design or modification) or special designed devices. As an example, here is a set of tucking forks I made out of some scrap metal and 5/8 bolts turned down.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture078-1.jpg

And a pair made from needle nose pliers..

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture053-1.jpg

Probably the biggest challenge with their use is producing consistent tucks. To produce a flowing, consistent radius, we should start with consistent tucks, both in size and the spacing between them.

I decided to make a pair of tucking pliers out of Vice Grips, as the jaw adjustment on them would prove to give repeatable sized tucks.

We'll start off by finding a pair of vise grips suitable for the job, which in this case means the jaw serrations are starting to wear and round off and won't grip much of anything else. Finish what has started by removing the serrations to produce a nice flat jaw on the bottom, and cut the top one off at about 30 degrees from its original position.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture001-3.jpg


I had some extra long shouldered 3/8 bolts, perfect round stock for the job. Three of them were cut off to 1-1/2" length.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture003-3.jpg


Here's my economy model lathe made by Dewalt...


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture004-3.jpg


To set the spacing for the "fingers" the first is clamped in the vise grip jaw, centered.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture007-2.jpg


The outer is placed next to it and then welded down the outside, center finger removed, and then welded down inside. Here we should leave a slight gap of your sheet metal thickness to prevent any binding, which will allow a deeper tuck.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture008-2.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture009-2.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture010-2.jpg


Repeat for opposite side, then weld center finger.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture011-2.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture012-2.jpg


Note in the above picture the 30 degree cut of the upper jaw positions the center finger at an angle compared to the bottom fingers. It is this angle that will help to form the tuck's shape.


Of course I took my favorite anvil along to the meet, here clamped in the vise..


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...t/SL371399.jpg

Again our object in this case is consistency, so equally spaced marks are placed on the flange, identical tucks made at each mark, and you can see the consistent radius along the panel.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture014-2.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture016-1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture018-1.jpg


I use a O/A torch to heat the tucks prior to hammering them flat. Others prefer to not use heat, and can capture the tuck and flatten it very effectively without it. I am still working on this proficiency, so in the meantime, I use heat. We're looking for something like this, prior to hammering.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...cture021-1.jpg

Here OJ assists with torch duties...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...t/SL371372.jpg

Another point to mention is that the hammering action tends to also spread the tuck back apart if not captured effectively. Where the picture above doesn't show it well, a good means of overcoming this would be to clamp a strap of metal across the ends of the newly formed radius prior to hammering, similar to this:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ng/Tucks-1.png

Then the hammering force will be more effective in flattening the tuck back into itself.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...t/SL371373.jpg

Once each piece was completed separately, the flanges were aligned back to back and the two pieces tacked together. Each had an identical radius, for a good fit. Consistency pays off!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...t/SL371374.jpg

I wish I could make one or all of the upcoming 'demo' days.

Thanks for the great photos in the first post - I'll have to go through the second later today.

A suggestion found out after many of my attempts - several Photobucket pictures usually show up as multiple links. A single teaser picture using the regular attachment below along with a link to Photobucket works better for CHR

Things are shaping up, on Feb 10th we'll have John Wessels in to do carburators. he will take them from the early 1900's and on thru to a double pumper and show how to rebuild them; John Mullen will get into Flathead engines doing the valvetrain on an 8ba, them we'll have an earlier 21stud flattie and we can see the evolution.
We are also talking with the Va State Police about opening that seminar, they will go thru the legal niceties of having a hot rod on the highway.
We be doing other subjects on that day, including ignition systems maybe some overhead valve stuff, electrical wiring etc.
I am very pleased that Tom Mancuso will be doing the leading again, he and fellow ClubHotRodder 'MP&C' (Robert) will be doing the sheetmetal forming on March 10th. Robert has a true gift, his workmanship is amazing but he can explain what he is doing in a way that you can see and understand. Tom and Robert will have the full day as long as it takes on March 10th. I will also spend time showing not just basic tig welding but how to fusion weld sheetmetal, this will be hands-on so bring your shield.
The 1st seminar on Jan 13th is not finalized, i think it will be a killer session and hopefully - lots of things to work out as yet - we'll tear into and narrow a banjo rear! and some other trick stuff. It will be a very special seminar if we can make it happen.

A brief update, the sheduled gathering for Jan 13th has been backed up to the 20th. The main topic was to have been drivelines but that just ain't gonna happen. Dave Krolak will still be able to do the presentation on brake systems; i have managed to talk myself into doing electrical wireing and the main topic will be ignition systems presented by a team that has yet to be assembled. This is going to be good, really good.
John Mullen emailed me this morning that he has a change in his schedule and will be in Florida in Feb and unable to do the presentation on flatties, maybe we an get him next year. he'll be missed.
I'll be opening the shop around 8:30, the presentations will begin around 10am with a buffet lunch - prawns and lobstertails have been removed from the menu for some reason - of coldcuts and potato salad etc is provided. We'll go until we are done.

I am still getting confirmations for the ignition demo, it is hard finding qualified guys that can explain. Anyway, as of now we'll have Ted Bennett explaining how a coil actually works (Ted is wicked smart and it is an honor that he would participate); after Ted, Carl Anderson (of Early American Auto Restoration) will start with an early ignition system (maybe a 59a type) and take us on thru to HEI. He'll show what needs rebuilding and how to do it. He might get into the sinewave of the ignition and coil, he will get into the points dwell, vacuum and relationship to the carb etc and demo it all on a Sun 504 machine. We might hook up a rack of sparkplugs and hook a Sun Scope to it - we are talking about taht part.

I am also speaking with a 3rd person to take from HEI and bring us into the modern race ignitions and capacitive discharge.

The session will start with Dave Krolak and brake systems; I'll follow with electrical wireing basics with emphasis on the tooling, how to organize, how to make harnesses etc.

And there will be a ton of food!

OJ (and Robert) I made it to the metal shaping gathering a couple years and enjoyed it. I'm hoping to make it to one or two again this year. I saw your post about the one this Sunday OJ, but I don't think I'll make that one. I'll certainly keep an eye out for updates on the other ones though!