Edelcrock 1406 (Sick)

Hiya,

I have sitting upon a perfectly funcional Chevy 350 one of those Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm electric choke carbs. Now I know a Holly would be better but until gas is more affordable i'll hafta get rich before I can take a Holly day.

Speaking of rich I am wondering if anyone knows the stock air fuel mixture on those things? I have a tuning kit for it with rods, jets and springs.

However, I need to know what i'm starting out at. I got the manual of course but I don't know to go rich or lean til I know where it's at in the first place.

Jets are .098 and rods are 075x047 stock.

I have available .095 and .101 jets.

I have available rods at 070x037, 073x042, 073x047.

I have 5 springs available ranging from 3-in Hg to 8-in Hg

I would like to try for a little more WOT. Cruising is good.

And hopefully not to be too detrimental on fuel economy which is hovering around 14 mpg.

I would like to shoot for an a/f ratio of about 14 to 15, perhaps 13 to 14.

I have a tuned Holly 625 and it performed exellent but coudn't afford the gas so I figure the carb I got now is pretty lean.

The engine is a Chevy 350 4 bolt main .030 over flatop pistons. Dual plane Hi-rise manifold with an RV cam, forgot specs. Stock exhaust manifolds but dual exausts with glasspacks. Recurved HEI distributor. Stock set timing on cam n crank. Don't know what the heads are, probably them low torque crappy later ones but with stiffer valve springs.

Can someone help me out please?

Oh, for extra credit can anyone tell me what compression i'm getting from the flatops? Probably not too much since i'm using cheap pump gas still.

Ohyeah, the other day my wife walks in an says my car won't start and she thinks there's water in the carburetor, I ask how she would know that and she says cause the car is sitting at the bottom of the neighbors swimming pool.

Ohwell, saves on the carwash. :D

There's info on the Edelbrock site as to what your carb came equipped with, then you should have got a book with the carb. The book has a chart or two that will tell you what adjustments to make and where to go with jets and needles... Think the chart is online, too?????

Ok, but ya gotta know where it's at to know which way to go.....I like to tune with an air/fuel ratio meter along with a vacuum gauge and a timing light.... Got any friends in a shop that could set you up with an air/fuel meter, sure makes things easier....

Ok fine, use a 4 gas analyzer... I have a nice air fuel ratio meter I use.... Couldn't find a 4 gas analyzer for $40.00, which is what I paid for my old used meter... Not much use for them now with all the diagnostics on the new cars I guess!!!!!

Ok... I give up.... Why wouldn't my little air fuel ratio meter with it's sniffer that you put in the tail pipe work????????

Holy cow!!!!!!!! Did I really set myself up THAT easy?????? Man, I am gettin' old, huh?????

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Originally Posted by DennyW

Probably, cause you have it, and he doesn't ??? :LOL: :LOL:

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Classic. :3dSMILE:

You dont even need one of those o2 sensor kits. All you need is to mount your 02 sensor in the exhaust (preferably a heated sensor) 12v hot and ground wire and volt meter.... If you need I can get you a part number for the heated 02 sensor.

Could you guys expand a little on how to properly use a vacuum gauge to set the carb? Where do you connect it, what are you looking for, etc?

Don

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Could you guys expand a little on how to properly use a vacuum gauge to set the carb? Where do you connect it, what are you looking for, etc?

Don

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Manifold vacuum and I adjust for the highest reading and then back it off just a taste.

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

Classic. :3dSMILE:

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I wished you had not said that.
Here we go again.
Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water.:LOL:

Hiyall,

Well, what yall said was evelavated and correct. BUT please let me clarify.

I have a manual for the tuning kit for the 1406, not the carb itself. I lost custody of that in a tragic divorce case. She got the manual, I got the carb.

I have the idle mixture screws adjusted properly with the air cleaner on. With a vaccum gauge. Backed off a tad is correct tuning but I refrained from doing that just yet. Plugs are looked at and buring clean, LOTS of water out the tailpipes.

What i'm wanting to adjust is the intermeadiate circuit involving the jets, needles and springs. The part that kicks in after idle.

All i was wanting to know is what a/f mixture that carb is set to from the box.

The Holly was set for speed, jets, power valve and secondary spring all changed from it's stock settings. The jets were changed to a .070, Forgot power valve number, weaker secondary spring. Good for passing but was using the car to go to the store as well. That carb ate as much gas as my 750 double-plumper.

Unfortunately, my sniffer got stolen along with various assortments of other tools and equipment but I could have used it like suggested.

I was planning on headers well, someday with a pre fab o2 bunghole for an a/f gauge so I was holding off on that for now.

The car i'm working on is a 76 Monte Carlo but the engine is a build up of various parts, not the original. The old engine is sitting under my microwave oven in my old shop.

I was wanting more power at WOT if possible and I know that carb can help if I knew which way to go with it.



Hope this helps some. Well, I hope it helps me.

"What i'm wanting to adjust is the intermeadiate circuit involving the jets, needles and springs. The part that kicks in after idle."
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf

WooHoo! Thanks for the manual Tech Inspector1 That's 1 up on my ex-wife let her eat cake!

The tuning manual can take me richer or leaner but doesen't give me a benchmark a/f, just a dot that says "you are here"

I suppose I can just change things and go for a burn, That's how I tuned the Holly. But i'm living in the stinking city now and the fuzz here are watching on every corner.

My vaccum is about 20 which is kinda low to me but it may have something to do with my timing. I have it backed up into the glasspacks but set it any closer and i'll backfire through that shiney carburetor. I oughta go have the distributor put on a machine but I was hoping to dial it in my way. Actually, the car starts quick cold or hot so really, it's not been a problem. Just...late.

The cam is an RV cam but forgot lift, duration, lap everything. I even forgot what brand it is. I didn't put it's sticker on my window. I'm sure it's one that would impress the girls though.

Well, I 'm trying to do what I can just by adjustments right now. The car runs sweet enough, just wanting to get just a bit more at passing speed.

Yes, I want to play with them rods actually. Part throttle is fine, WOT sits there an does very little.

Yeah, I agree with the basics. It's just that everything is as it was with the Holly and the car would launch itself like a rocket at 4, 5000 rpm. Now i'm only good up to that then it's a crawl from there. No other major changes other than the carb.

Well, I oughta just get it in my head to install an a/f gauge

Not to confuse the issue but I wonder if a single plane manifold would help?
I put one on my church's mission bus and it worked really well, problem is I was taught that dual plane was the way to go.

Yeah, I guess there's no crime and it won't cost anything. I guess i'm just paranoid about massive fuel consumption. I hadn't thought about having to keep a load on the engine.

Been thinking about the centrifugal timing as well. Although weaker springs helps the high end some. Best for me to get it bench tested I guess.

I can go 1 1/2 stages on the cruise and power mode equally. Richer that is.
Man, I sure appreciate all this advice. And that manual pdf especially.

A Holly is a wonderful thing for performance,,,, sadly it was never designed for economy. Your Edelbrock was origionally a Carter AFB (aluminum four barrel) until Edelbrock bought the patent rights years ago. In 'proper' tune, the Ed should run on par with the Holly. I ran dual quads on my A/MP L-88 '67 Camaro 10.90 ET/127 MPH,,, when the car was new. Jetting and metering rods can be a hassle, but once dialed in the carb works great. Unlike Holly, there is no power valve, so a bog or back fire is of no concern,,, ohhhh,,, your static CR is around 9:1 depending on cumbustion chamber volume. I ran a simulation on the DT Dyno and HP @ 5000 is 250 and TQ @ 4000 is 310 based on your info :) Peter

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Originally Posted by DennyW

Boy tuffnuff, your going to get nailed on that DT Dyno stuff....:LOL: Just warning you ahead of time....:LOL:

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OH $hit here we go:D HEY I NEED A HP AND A TQ on my engine :whacked: :whacked: :3dSMILE:

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Originally Posted by DennyW

He doesn't have to worrie about me Pat. I have read what was said about me, about using dyno stuff....not pretty....but I can deal with it....:LOL:

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well the oh $hit was not for you but more of a OH $HIT not all this all over again :whacked:

Hey guys,,, I have broad shoulders and come to think of it,,,, the most advanced aircraft would have a glide angle of a rock,,,, if it wasn't for computer technology,,,, so I'll handle it as it comes,,,, thanks for the warning by the way :)) Peter