car keeps dying...drives me nuts!

Hello, I'm new to this forum and a new hot rod owner as well.

Here's my proglem: I have a 57 chevy that seems to just all of a sudden die while driving it and then smells like gas. It has happened at both low and higher rpms. It has only done it after I shut it off and then turn it on to drive it again (so the first time I start it and drive it, it seems to go forever). But after shutting it off, it will not restart for 10 minutes or so and will then only go for 20 yards and then out again. For a little more info, when it does run, it can have some hesitation when hitting the gas at times...but boy does the car go!

Here's some info on my car (not sure what to give, but I guess more is better?):

57 chevy with a 350 by Brown Engineering
700R Overdrive w/2500 stall
Manley ultra lite flat top piston w/float pins
Eagle rods w/ARP bolts
Isky hydraulic roller cam
492 camel hump heads, 1.60/2.02 stainless steel valves, screw in studs & roller rockers
Victor Jr intake w/ Holley 750 double pumper, no choke
headers and dual exhaust
9" Ford posi w/390 gear & driveshaft by Jackson Powertrain

I'll be honest, I'm not sure what all of these items mean, but I wanted to list them for you guys.

Any thoughts on what I need to do or what is wrong? Losing power steering and brakes when it dies can ruin a guys day for sure

Vapour lock. The gas line and pump are getting too warm, probably due to the headers being too close. As long as it's running, the gas flowing keeps it cool, but when you stop, the gas boils and the pump won't work so you run out of gas. The solution is to reroute the line away from the heat, and maybe make a sheet metal shield between the header and the pump and line.

wow, that's interesting, thank you....do you think putting an insulator or wrap of some sort on the fuel line would do the trick?

I just peeked under the hood and it looks like the fuel pump is right next to those headers...the line goes away from them, but the pump is right there

Header wrap insulation works, wrap the tubes that are close to the pump.

Electric fuel pump will work also.Check your fuel filter too!

ignition module?

After insulating the fuel lines. I'd make sure that the tank is clean especially if the tank is original. IMHO the 750 is a little large.

What you have to find out is whether the problem is fuel or electrical. When it goes into the no go mode,check and see if you're getting fuel,and then check your spark. The biggest single mistake is grounds not hooked back up,so double check that the block,the body,and the battery all have good clean,and tight connections. Hank

I'm going to the auto parts store today to check for insulated wraps etc. for the headers and the braided fuel line. Does the fuel pump need to be wrapped too? (because it's so close to the headers)

[QUOTE=halftanked]What you have to find out is whether the problem is fuel or electrical. When it goes into the no go mode,check and see if you're getting fuel,and then check your spark.

You don't know what to fix if you don't first know whats WRONG:eek:
halftanked put you in the right direction JMO. Let us know what you find out

[QUOTE=Joe57Chevy]Hello, I'm new to this forum and a new hot rod owner as well.

Here's my proglem: I have a 57 chevy that seems to just all of a sudden die while driving it and then smells like gas.

If you smell gas how could it be vapor lock.Vapor lock is the lack of gas:eek: :eek:

very true... I'll investigate more first and keep you guys posted **)

When the carb runs dry, the float drops, and allows the vapour to escape. It's the vapour that you smell. A little bit of gasoline makes a lot of vapour when its heated.

Okay, now I'm confused (well, more than usual). Another guy told me to absolutely not wrap the headers, as that will put more heat through the engine and make my problem worse. He says that my problem, due to a radical cam, is boiling of the gas directly inside of the carburetor.

for the earlier question: my Dad says that I'm getting both gas and spark

A small carb spacer may help as the aluminum intakes seem to get as hot as a exaust manifold when in use {seems that hot anyway:LOL: }and more so upon shut down,the whole thermal conductivity thing.You will be able to grab the exaust manifold with your bare hand long before you can even touch the aluminum intake.

it has a pretty big spacer in there already actually

What material?

it looks to be aluminum I think

Thought about using a stainless steel heatshield that goes under the carburetoor and protects the bowls from manifold heat when the engine is shut down ?

I really have soooo much to learn.... I've never heard of that to be honest

Aluminim to aluminum is no heat barrier ,try a phenolic or wood spacer to help with heat soak.The idea of the spacer is not only a performance tunning tool ,but provide some room between the hot engine and your carb or insulation between the hot motor and carb.

can you post a picture of whats under the hood and maybe some closeups for the carb and the area around it? also the pump and the area around that?

that's a good idea...luckily I just found my camera too :) I'll take some today

here are the pictures that I promised....the hose goes underneath and attaches to the red elbow

I could only fit 5 images in the last one...but here are some images of the entire engine (and one of the car just for fun I guess :D )

Nice car!!!There are lots of possible bads going on there.....1 never use teflon tape in the fuel system ,..it can dissolve and plug carb passages and do exactly what you are describing.Use a liquid pipe dope for high pressure and fuels.2 an fittings do not use teflon or pipe dope ,...only a light oil upon assembly.3The hot water lines are in direct contact with the fuel lines ,big no no,they will heat the fuel and rub thru the line leading to.....The fuel line is real close to the header ..remeber underneath the industrial looking steel braid is regular ol rubber line.Last is the spacer deal....I would either replace that one with a insulating type or add a thin insulator to the stack or use a complete heat shield as already suggested. These may not even be your problem ,but need to be addressed to stop any future problems.
Other than some minor hose rerouting ,maybe some insulating wrap here and there,it looks like a winner.

thanks for hanging with me and reading through all of this (and thanks for the compliments on the car too! :D )

Even if these items suggested don't cure the problem, it sure sounds like they need to be done right away. I need to figure out how to reroute some items....the fuel line (and wrap it), and that heater hose (it just sits on everything), and then wrap just that portion of the headers maybe?

I wouldn't wrap any portion of the headers. I'd untangle the plug wires off the cap. From your picture it appears that the fuel pump is the rebuildable style, if so, I'd clock the outlet fitting closer toward the front of the engine. If memory serves me right the fittings on a stock '57 were at about 45*.

Denny's illustration shows you the carb inlet filter, have you changed it?I very much so agree with moving that heater hose and reposition fuel line. I also agree with getting a phenolic carb spacer. I noticed you have a fuel pressure port in your carb line,why not hook up a gauge and check that out too.I also didn't see any grounding straps, I know that doesn't mean you don't have them,as I generally tuck them out of sight myself. They are vital though. That's a really nice ride,good luck with it. Hank

I haven't changed anything...right now I'm working on rerouting the heater hose so it doesn't touch anything. The fuel line is next (going to try to turn that elbow forward and away from the headers instead of up and towards the headers like it is right now)

Hey guys... here's an update and slight change of the symptoms: On Saturday, I warmed up the car on the driveway and then drove the car around a bit, just in the neighborhood (just couldn't help myself :drool: ) and this time, it died while driving it before I ever turned it off and restarted. That's the first time that's happened. Usually, the first time I drive it, it goes forever...not sure if that little tidbit helps or not, but thought I'd share since my first description of the symptoms was a bit incorrect.

As for my progress: I didn't get to do as much to the car over the weekend as I had hoped, due to kids soccer games and you name it, but I did get to reroute the heater hose - now nothing is touching the fuel hose at all.

That's a start. Still need to address the headers by the fuel line and the phenolic spacer. (I can see why they pointed the fuel line 90 degree elbow upward the way that they did...there's no room to point it in any other direction due to hard lines running right by it - still wondering if there's a way to turn the entire fuel pump forward about 45 degrees like was suggested earlier by someone, as the way it should've been in the first place)

another update, I've wrapped the headers in the area where the fuel line passes (and the fuel line as well)...the only item left is the phenolic spacer :)

Joe, Are you still running the factory tank and lines? I't s awfully suspicious how this thing changes it's mind on when it wants to keep running and when it wants to die. Maybe a closer look at the fuel inlet system from the tank to the pump. Please follow the helps that have been given here the clean up the teflon tape issues and hose routing. As a point of curiosity, where are the floats set at. This has got to be a simple fix what ever it might be. Don't be afraid to look up Tommy Norton (Norton's Automotive) or Dave Slatten (Slatten's Automotive) there. A couple others come to mind, but these guys will get you headed in the right direction in a fair manner. You have some good shops up there.

After you do all of the rerouting of lines and such, the next thing I would do is to drain the gas tank and pull the float/sending unit out. I believe that you find that the filter is partially plugged and the tank is full of crud and that is your main problem.
I experienced the same problem that you are having with a '57 about 30 years ago and the tank was the problem. You have other issues as well, but they can't be addressed until the car runs on a consistent basis.

After rebuilding/restoring his family-owned-since-new 57 Chevy my pal had this problem. The guys who put the 350 in did the plumbing and he had vapor lock bad. The old 283 never did. It was they used copper tubing for some fuel lines! Heat was being attracted like crazy. Replacing it with fuel injection grade neophrene hose and slightly different routing fixed it.