Thread: car keeps dying...drives me nuts!

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What you have to find out is whether the problem is fuel or electrical. When it goes into the no go mode,check and see if you're getting fuel,and then check your spark. The biggest single mistake is grounds not hooked back up,so double check that the block,the body,and the battery all have good clean,and tight connections. Hank

I'm going to the auto parts store today to check for insulated wraps etc. for the headers and the braided fuel line. Does the fuel pump need to be wrapped too? (because it's so close to the headers)

[QUOTE=halftanked]What you have to find out is whether the problem is fuel or electrical. When it goes into the no go mode,check and see if you're getting fuel,and then check your spark.

You don't know what to fix if you don't first know whats WRONG
halftanked put you in the right direction JMO. Let us know what you find out

very true... I'll investigate more first and keep you guys posted

When the carb runs dry, the float drops, and allows the vapour to escape. It's the vapour that you smell. A little bit of gasoline makes a lot of vapour when its heated.

Okay, now I'm confused (well, more than usual). Another guy told me to absolutely not wrap the headers, as that will put more heat through the engine and make my problem worse. He says that my problem, due to a radical cam, is boiling of the gas directly inside of the carburetor.

for the earlier question: my Dad says that I'm getting both gas and spark

A small carb spacer may help as the aluminum intakes seem to get as hot as a exaust manifold when in use {seems that hot anyway }and more so upon shut down,the whole thermal conductivity thing.You will be able to grab the exaust manifold with your bare hand long before you can even touch the aluminum intake.

it has a pretty big spacer in there already actually