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Thread: car keeps dying...drives me nuts!
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
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    A small carb spacer may help as the aluminum intakes seem to get as hot as a exaust manifold when in use {seems that hot anyway }and more so upon shut down,the whole thermal conductivity thing.You will be able to grab the exaust manifold with your bare hand long before you can even touch the aluminum intake.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  2. #17
    Joe57Chevy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    it has a pretty big spacer in there already actually

  3. #18
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    What material?
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  4. #19
    Joe57Chevy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    it looks to be aluminum I think

  5. #20
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    Thought about using a stainless steel heatshield that goes under the carburetoor and protects the bowls from manifold heat when the engine is shut down ?
    "aerodynamics are for people who cant build engines"

    Enzo Ferrari

  6. #21
    Joe57Chevy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I really have soooo much to learn.... I've never heard of that to be honest

  7. #22
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    Aluminim to aluminum is no heat barrier ,try a phenolic or wood spacer to help with heat soak.The idea of the spacer is not only a performance tunning tool ,but provide some room between the hot engine and your carb or insulation between the hot motor and carb.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  8. #23
    BigRedTrucker is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    can you post a picture of whats under the hood and maybe some closeups for the carb and the area around it? also the pump and the area around that?

  9. #24
    Joe57Chevy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    that's a good idea...luckily I just found my camera too I'll take some today

  10. #25
    Joe57Chevy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    here are the pictures that I promised....the hose goes underneath and attaches to the red elbow
    Attached Images

  11. #26
    Joe57Chevy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I could only fit 5 images in the last one...but here are some images of the entire engine (and one of the car just for fun I guess )
    Attached Images

  12. #27
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    Nice car!!!There are lots of possible bads going on there.....1 never use teflon tape in the fuel system ,..it can dissolve and plug carb passages and do exactly what you are describing.Use a liquid pipe dope for high pressure and fuels.2 an fittings do not use teflon or pipe dope ,...only a light oil upon assembly.3The hot water lines are in direct contact with the fuel lines ,big no no,they will heat the fuel and rub thru the line leading to.....The fuel line is real close to the header ..remeber underneath the industrial looking steel braid is regular ol rubber line.Last is the spacer deal....I would either replace that one with a insulating type or add a thin insulator to the stack or use a complete heat shield as already suggested. These may not even be your problem ,but need to be addressed to stop any future problems.
    Other than some minor hose rerouting ,maybe some insulating wrap here and there,it looks like a winner.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  13. #28
    Joe57Chevy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    thanks for hanging with me and reading through all of this (and thanks for the compliments on the car too! )

    Even if these items suggested don't cure the problem, it sure sounds like they need to be done right away. I need to figure out how to reroute some items....the fuel line (and wrap it), and that heater hose (it just sits on everything), and then wrap just that portion of the headers maybe?

  14. #29
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    I wouldn't wrap any portion of the headers. I'd untangle the plug wires off the cap. From your picture it appears that the fuel pump is the rebuildable style, if so, I'd clock the outlet fitting closer toward the front of the engine. If memory serves me right the fittings on a stock '57 were at about 45*.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  15. #30
    halftanked is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Denny's illustration shows you the carb inlet filter, have you changed it?I very much so agree with moving that heater hose and reposition fuel line. I also agree with getting a phenolic carb spacer. I noticed you have a fuel pressure port in your carb line,why not hook up a gauge and check that out too.I also didn't see any grounding straps, I know that doesn't mean you don't have them,as I generally tuck them out of sight myself. They are vital though. That's a really nice ride,good luck with it. Hank

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