Motor is Running great, but not in gear?

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07-28-2005, 04:15 PM
camberbrandt

Motor is Running great, but not in gear?

I have 383 stroker, 11:1 compression, .060 over, Keith Black pistson, 400 heads, 290 cam with 478 lift, TH350 tranny with a 2500 stall.

Ok here is the issue, just got the motor running very good, idles great and all now.... as soon as I put it in gear though it basically dies unless im on it. I assume this is due to the stall? Can I run without a stall converter and just run a normal torque converter? Would this solve the issue? I dont mind the performance lose as its just basically a show truck.

Any help of input would be great.
07-28-2005, 04:20 PM
53fatfndr

What is your idle speed set at? I know guys that run radical cams will often set the idle substantially higher than you would think.
07-28-2005, 04:28 PM
camberbrandt

Quote:

Originally posted by 53fatfndr
What is your idle speed set at? I know guys that run radical cams will often set the idle substantially higher than you would think.

I am not sure on the idle speed, its up high enough that its not lopty lopty around type thing, I have all dakota digital gauges that havne't been set up yet... so im not sure the idle speed. Are you saying that a higher idle speed the problem with the stall would be gone?

Im a noob talk to me like im stupid, I dont mind! haha.
07-28-2005, 05:22 PM
53fatfndr

Best thing to do is figure out what your RPM reading is first, so you get a baseline, and then go from there.

I've been on other forums where guys with some fairly radical engines have their idle RPM's set up higher than stock, it is not uncommon. Heck, your engine isn't stock anymore, so there are alot of things that won't be set the same. What you don't want, is to set it so high that when you turn your engine off the engine runs on, or diesels, when you shut it off.

How does your engine idle when out of gear? And, what is your timing set at? Hopefully more guys chime in here that have more experience than myself :)
07-28-2005, 05:33 PM
camberbrandt

Quote:

Originally posted by camberbrandt
I am not sure on the idle speed, its up high enough that its not lopty lopty around type thing, I have all dakota digital gauges that havne't been set up yet... so im not sure the idle speed. Are you saying that a higher idle speed the problem with the stall would be gone?

Im a noob talk to me like im stupid, I dont mind! haha.

Its set at 38 degrees i think at 3k rpm from the builder. It could be a long while before I have those dakota digital gauges working.

I guess what i really need to ask, is why do I have a stall, do I need it? What will it be like with a normal torque converter.
07-28-2005, 07:22 PM
techinspector1

"as soon as I put it in gear though it basically dies unless im on it."

two guesses: either the valves are adjusted too tight or you have a vacuum leak.

The cam you're using isn't that radical for a 383. You should be able to idle it down to around 800-850 rpm's at idle and with a 2,500 rpm stall converter, you should be able to click it into gear and not feel any jerk.

Keep the higher stall converter instead of swapping it for a stock one. Because you'll be making power in a higher rpm range with the hotter cam, you'll need the extra low-rpm slip of the stall converter to get the rpm's up into the power range.
07-28-2005, 07:37 PM
camberbrandt

Quote:

Originally posted by techinspector1
"as soon as I put it in gear though it basically dies unless im on it."

two guesses: either the valves are adjusted too tight or you have a vacuum leak.

The cam you're using isn't that radical for a 383. You should be able to idle it down to around 800-850 rpm's at idle and with a 2,500 rpm stall converter, you should be able to click it into gear and not feel any jerk.

Keep the higher stall converter instead of swapping it for a stock one. Because you'll be making power in a higher rpm range with the hotter cam, you'll need the extra low-rpm slip of the stall converter to get the rpm's up into the power range.

Theres no vacuum at all on the carb... so thats not it. Dont think its valves either motor guy is a very smart kitty. However the other people ive talked to simply say pull out that stall so it will run fine at all rpm ranges... I dont much care about building power for launches its a show vehicle, just loading it on the trailer while ago was nearly impossible.

Ill restate, i just want it to run and drive without it being violent surges. If a normal torque converter would get me there than thats what i should I think. Concer? or am i on crack.
07-28-2005, 07:39 PM
camberbrandt

Here is the truck thats its in for reference.

http://www.graphicdisorder.com/oneoff
07-28-2005, 08:23 PM
R Pope

Going to a stock, low-speed stall converter will make your problem worse. The high stall allows the engine to run at higher RPM without moving the vehicle. I agree that you may have a vacuum leak. Spray WD40 or similar stuff along the intake/head join, if the exhaust smokes or the engine speeds up, you've found the problem. I use ether starting fluid, no mess to clean up, but many are too faint-hearted to try this.
07-29-2005, 05:08 AM
camberbrandt

Quote:

Originally posted by R Pope
Going to a stock, low-speed stall converter will make your problem worse. The high stall allows the engine to run at higher RPM without moving the vehicle. I agree that you may have a vacuum leak. Spray WD40 or similar stuff along the intake/head join, if the exhaust smokes or the engine speeds up, you've found the problem. I use ether starting fluid, no mess to clean up, but many are too faint-hearted to try this.

Nobodys answered my question? WHY do I want a stall converter? I want this truck to move like a normal vehicle, I do not want sudden surges, it is nearly impossible to put this vehicle on a trailer. I do not want to have to put a ton of rpm into it while in gear to move at all. Hell it would be nice to idle up the trailer...........

Higher stall seems to me would have ot rev even higher to move.... I think the problem is I dont need a stall on here at all. This is not a race or drag vehicle... strickly show.
07-29-2005, 06:32 AM
R Pope

If you get your engine running right, the converter doesn't matter. In your application, a stock one would probably be better. A question, though---if you don't drive it other than loading it on the trailer, why did you bother with all the go-fast goodies?
07-31-2005, 08:43 PM
camberbrandt

Quote:

Originally posted by R Pope
If you get your engine running right, the converter doesn't matter. In your application, a stock one would probably be better. A question, though---if you don't drive it other than loading it on the trailer, why did you bother with all the go-fast goodies?

I guess im still lost the motor runs great! It idles on its own revs very quick and responsive, but put it in gear and dead she goes. Your suggestting a higher idle would fix this?

The go fast stuff will get used, but I goto events all over the nation, im not about to drive that thing 20-30hrs one way. Its gotta do some trailer riding.
08-01-2005, 02:18 PM
camberbrandt

Anyone? Any input is great!
08-01-2005, 02:57 PM
Dave Severson

What RPM is it running in gear??? Try turning the idle up and see if it runs. Should be able to run about 800-900 RPM in gear with the cam. Have you checked the timing??? Checked for vacuum leaks???
08-01-2005, 03:03 PM
canibalchicken

Quote:

Originally posted by R Pope
Going to a stock, low-speed stall converter will make your problem worse. The high stall allows the engine to run at higher RPM without moving the vehicle. I agree that you may have a vacuum leak. Spray WD40 or similar stuff along the intake/head join, if the exhaust smokes or the engine speeds up, you've found the problem. I use ether starting fluid, no mess to clean up, but many are too faint-hearted to try this.

I don't think it has anything to do with you converter.
08-01-2005, 03:06 PM
canibalchicken

Quote:

Originally posted by camberbrandt
Nobodys answered my question? WHY do I want a stall converter? I want this truck to move like a normal vehicle, I do not want sudden surges, it is nearly impossible to put this vehicle on a trailer. I do not want to have to put a ton of rpm into it while in gear to move at all. Hell it would be nice to idle up the trailer...........

Higher stall seems to me would have ot rev even higher to move.... I think the problem is I dont need a stall on here at all. This is not a race or drag vehicle... strickly show.

A stall converter just slipps till it's lock up rpm's. It will still move. With a bigger cam than stock, you power range changes from idle to 5500 to like 2000rpm's to 7000rpm's this is why you need a stall converter.
08-01-2005, 03:08 PM
canibalchicken

Quote:

Originally posted by camberbrandt
I guess im still lost the motor runs great! It idles on its own revs very quick and responsive, but put it in gear and dead she goes. Your suggestting a higher idle would fix this?

The go fast stuff will get used, but I goto events all over the nation, im not about to drive that thing 20-30hrs one way. Its gotta do some trailer riding.

What is your timing set at?

It should be somewhere between 5 - 10 deg before top dead center, at idle with the vaccum advance disconnected and pluged.
08-01-2005, 03:11 PM
canibalchicken

Re: Motor is Running great, but not in gear?

Quote:

Originally posted by camberbrandt
I have 383 stroker, 11:1 compression, .060 over, Keith Black pistson, 400 heads, 290 cam with 478 lift, TH350 tranny with a 2500 stall.

Ok here is the issue, just got the motor running very good, idles great and all now.... as soon as I put it in gear though it basically dies unless im on it. I assume this is due to the stall? Can I run without a stall converter and just run a normal torque converter? Would this solve the issue? I dont mind the performance lose as its just basically a show truck.

Any help of input would be great.

Are you running pump gas? 10.5-1 compression is about the max you can run with 93 octaine
08-02-2005, 12:00 PM
camberbrandt

Quote:

Originally posted by Dave Severson
What RPM is it running in gear??? Try turning the idle up and see if it runs. Should be able to run about 800-900 RPM in gear with the cam. Have you checked the timing??? Checked for vacuum leaks???

Timing is good, that was set when it was built/dyno'ed. The carb has no vacuum lines at all, its all mechanical, its a show truck, dont want all that running around in the motor compartment.

I have no clue what the idle rpm is cause my dakota digital gauges are not hooked up yet.... plus its one of those that you ahve to have it actually moving to calibrate it for speed/rpm. SO anyway I cant check that. So your saying if I idle it up a bit it should drive fine?
08-02-2005, 12:02 PM
camberbrandt

Re: Re: Motor is Running great, but not in gear?

Quote:

Originally posted by canibalchicken
Are you running pump gas? 10.5-1 compression is about the max you can run with 93 octaine

Its running supreme right now thats all I have access to at this time. yes it will be running some race fuel at some point but it would be nice to be able to load and unload this thing under its own power haha.
08-03-2005, 08:53 AM
camberbrandt

Anyone?
08-03-2005, 01:20 PM
Dave Severson

You need to get a timing light and a tach to see what the motor is at now. Just because it ran good on the dyno doesn't mean it is set correctly. Without a tach and a timing light you're just guessing.
08-03-2005, 01:31 PM
53fatfndr

I'm with Dave. You have to get your stuff hooked up or your just guessing. See if you can borrow what you need.
08-03-2005, 05:00 PM
camberbrandt

Quote:

Originally posted by Dave Severson
You need to get a timing light and a tach to see what the motor is at now. Just because it ran good on the dyno doesn't mean it is set correctly. Without a tach and a timing light you're just guessing.

The timming was good when the carb guys tuned it. I didn't attempt to drive it while they where here though... Im not sure what the timming is at.
08-03-2005, 07:56 PM
canibalchicken

Quote:

Originally posted by camberbrandt
The timming was good when the carb guys tuned it. I didn't attempt to drive it while they where here though... Im not sure what the timming is at.

If it was running good when they tuned it and now when you put a load on the engine it does not run good means that the carb and timing need to be re-set.

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