I am stumped??

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Originally posted by C9x
You can make a piston stop out of an old spark plug.
Getting the porcelain out without damaging the steel shell can be tough, but it can be done.
A little welding and you're done.

You can also make them from a spark plug extender - available on the KD tool rack - that is used as an anti-plug fouling device in a cylinder that's pumping oil.

The one in the pic was drilled to tap size and a - fairly sure - 3/8-NF tap spun in for the adjuster bolt.

Round off the bolt end and observe the cautions put forth by the other guys when you use this device.

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I've done the same thing with an old spark plug, except I found that it was just the right size for a 3/8-NC tap and I had some 3/8-NC allthread laying around. Like you said, I rounded off the end and voila, a no-cost piston stop.

I changed the spark plugs and wires so I have 8 to practice on. BTW, what would cause the old plugs to look "white, ashy"?

Correction: I have 7 to practice on. One of them needs to be right!**)

OK, that could contribute to the elevated operating temp. Will be troubleshooting the Edelbrock some more. May need the calibration kit with the metering rods and springs. Mo' money, Mo' money!**)

Update:

Got the piston stop ordered. Should arrive by Wednesday. Still troubleshooting fuel starvation problem on another post. Decided to order stop instead of creating one out of old plugs.


:D

Quote:

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Originally posted by s10streeter
OK, that could contribute to the elevated operating temp. Will be troubleshooting the Edelbrock some more. May need the calibration kit with the metering rods and springs. Mo' money, Mo' money!**)

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Just like a redheaded schoolteacher I used to date, she kept makin' me do it over and over 'til I got it right :LOL:

I wanted to have one of these in my toolbox just in case any one around here ever needs to find TTDC I can show them the tool that no one else has around here. Then explain to them how it works and then give them the name of the tool. We hillbillies are easily enfluenced by another persons knowledge. Not to mention having a rare tool. This could make me famous!:LOL: :LOL:

:confused: Or, at least, boost my ego.:LOL:

Quote:

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Originally posted by s10streeter
OK, that could contribute to the elevated operating temp. Will be troubleshooting the Edelbrock some more. May need the calibration kit with the metering rods and springs. Mo' money, Mo' money!**)

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Instead of ordering the calibration kit - which costs a few bucks and you have a lot of lefotover, probably never needed parts, go to the Edelbrock site, see what the stock rods and jets are, decide how you want to jet it, then order those specific rods and jets + a spring kit from Summit.

(Keep your eyes open at the swaps, you can get a calibration kit with 90% of the parts within and the price can be reasonable.
I got a kit at the 2nd of July swap meet for 10.
Only trouble is, the kit covers my friends carb - that needs to be jetted for our altitude - and most of it is too small for my bigger engine and carb set-up.

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A quick and dirty stop can be made from a long reach spark plug . . . assuming yours isn't a long reach to start with.

The piston stop arrived today.

There are no instructions with it. Does it matter how far the bolt is screwed in?

Does anyone know what size socket fits on the crank so I can turn the engine with a bar?

Yes, I am being lazy.:LOL:

The more I can stay out from under the truck. The more time I have to admire its beauty from the top. :LOL: :)

""Does it matter how far the bolt is screwed in?"""

Just tighten the outer shell down snug so it will not move. You don't have to torque it or anything.

Remove the #1 spark plug. Turn the motor over with a breaker bar and socket on the harmonic balancer retaining bolt head clockwise in the direction of rotation until a friend feels air being pushed out the spark plug hole with his finger or thumb. When you are about an inch from the timing mark on the damper, stop and insert the piston stop, turning the inner threaded rod down against the top of the piston. Don't try to torque it, just contact the piston. Make a mark on the damper ring at the timing pointer. Now turn the crank back the other way (counterclockwise) all the way around until the piston is again coming to the top of its travel and stops against the piston stop (which you haven't moved). Make another mark on the damper ring at the timing pointer. Halfway between these 2 marks is absolute TDC. Measure carefully. It works best if you use a 6 inch caliper.

Hey tech,
Whats the bolt size on the crank? Come on, I know you have the answer, Please?:confused:

:LOL:

Ok, I quess I'll have to do it the hard way. I'm going to GMPP.com!:LOL: :LOL: :)

3815933 Crankshaft Bolt
This 7/16-20 x 21/4" bolt positively retains the balancer and pulley on the crankshaft snout. For all small-block V8s and V6/90º engines with tapped crank snouts.


Hopefully this means 7\16 and all sbc are the same?:o

:CRY: Fiddle Faddle!CRY:

You should not turn the motor with the crank bolt, it could break
or pull the threads out! 5/8 socket fits most!