454 cooling problems!

[Dr_Jim]

Bottom line is Im restoring a 73 Nova SS that was setup as a
1/4 mile car.....I have already changed things up from the original config to address cooling.

Current engine specs:
- 454 bored 30 over
- Compression 12:1

- Cam: Intake duration at .006 lift is 300 and intake duration at .050 lift is 240 lift at cam is .330 - lift at valve is .560 - intake centerline at 110 and lobe sep. angle at 112

- 373 rear gear
- MSD ignition

- Holly 850
- Edelbrock intake
- Hooker headers
- 3" Flowmasters

- Griffin 31x19.5 alum radiator (50/50)
- 16" Pusher fan on front of rad. (17cfm)
- Mechanical flexfan pulling (no clutch)
- Replaced thermostat w/160 (also tried just restricted)
- Replaced gauge cluster and sensors
- Water pump pumps great!

PROBLEM:
Car runs fine at speed 190dg at 45mph, 200-205dg at low speeds. And generally climbs up to 210-212 at long stoplights.....
then comes back down again with speed.
HOWEVER,....it does continue to get hotter and hotter at idle....
if I got stuck in traffic I would be in DEEP trouble as the gauge will get to 230 at about 4 minutes of idle...then I shut her off.
I am running 93 octane and an octane booster.

ISSUE: 1ST SHOP that messed with her set the timing waaaay back. (dont ask me why)

NEW race mechanic wants to do following:
1) Set timing where it SHOULD BE
2) Lock out distributer
3) Install 'starter saver' for easy starting with locked timing
4) Fill radiator with water and Water Wetter...no antifreeze (I
am in Florida)

5) I then run 3-5 gallons racing fuel with 11-12 gal 93 octane premium.
Racing fuel has lead,.....he also mentioned that helps with the cooling.

He said the car will then not get increasingly hotter,....it will reach a point...but not continue to climb indefinately.


Any opinions on this situation,......Im not looking for a daily driver out of it.....but jesus...there has to be a reason it just gets hotter and hotter and hotter......and I feel the cooling system is pretty much maxed out...

thanks!

[Mike P]

Personally, I would dump the flex fan and electric fan, install a good 7/8 blade fan with HD fan clutch (the ones from the Chevy/GMC 454 trucks work well) and install a good fan shroud.

I live in SW Arizona where cooling is a major consideration. I have a customer with a 70 454 Chevell that was set up almost identical to what you have (except he was using a stock type radiator) and yes he had the same heat problem. When he went to the clutch fan, it cured the heating problem.

I would also stay with a distributor with at least a mechanical advance if your doing any street driving at all with the car.

[sowardjr]

A big block chevy with, I guess iron heads and 12.1 compression
is asking for trouble on pump gas. Your cam has 240 degrees of
duration @ .050 is also hurting. You have to much cranking compression which is why you're running hot. Are you exprerimenting detonation also? A cam that has late valve closing
(ABDC) would bleed off some cylinder pressure, that can help. Bottom line is, your setup needs racing fuel. Wrong combination for pump gas.

[Dave Severson]

The question was asked a year and 5 days ago, if that bb chebbie wasn't fixed a long time back, would have burnt to the ground by now.

[gassersrule_196]

thats kinda funny when a 454 is having cooling probs and my 283 <that is suppose to doesnt> i jsut had to say it LOL no pun intended........scooter

[cptbil]

Dr. Jim:
GET THAT TIMING BACK! To where it should be!
Or a very degrees slightly in advance.. But!
A few degrees, + or -, past a certain point can really destroy an engine, power and/or mpg!
If it is not set correctly, you'll have the engine fighting itself to run!
That Is! Not A Good Thing!
I'm sure that you have checked this!....
BUT! Also...
Is you rad. large enough for the new engine ?
Oh! By The WAY!
Most engines/water pumps are build/designed to run on a
50-50 antifreeze/water solution!
W/O which, you'll induce caviation, which is another BAD! Thing!