https://www.facebook.com/ntfday/vide...1717740520245/
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HMmmm.. link no workee... 8-(
I'll copy your link then go to FB later and see if it works there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
When I click on it it takes me to my facebook page, posting videos is not my strong suit.
Link worked great for me! Sounds great!! Did you get your coolant reservoir hose fished out of the bottle?
Yes, Ian fished it out and we replaced it with a new longer piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Later today I will run the valves, I had Ian do it so he could learn, as we only went a quarter turn after eliminating clatter. After that I will change the oil and add a bottle of ZDDP. I haven't decide if I'll keep running ZDDP, one of the reasons I went with a Howard's cam.
Roller cam?Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan
Flat tappet
JMHO, with a flat tappet, I wouldn't gamble on running without ZDDP for just a few extra bucks an oil change more.
I agree, but you need to measure carefully and follow the specific additive directions because too much ZDDP can result in the Zinc precipitating out and being deposited on surfaces of highest pressure, leading to premature failure. I believe you'd be safer using an oil that's formulated with more ZDDP than using additives.Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan
https://www.competitionproducts.com/.../#.XydCgS3MxsM
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I'll continue to run an additive mainly because I don't want tear this thing down again. The fan shroud is a major PITA and is impossible to get in with the water pump on the engine.:mad: So you have to loosen the radiator support and pull the radiator forward while trying to get the shroud in place.:mad: I tired of screwing with it and notched the upper drivers side for upper radiator hose mount clearance and notched the bottom to clear the studs that hold the fan in place.:mad: Still had a problem with the bottom shroud as the mounts had to slip over the studs that secure the bottom.:mad: Now it slides over the studs;) NCRS wouldn't approve but I'm not building a damn trailer queen.:D
You're more patient than me, Ken! I'd likely have cut the shroud in half on both sides, slid the pieces in bottom & top and pieced it back together with aluminum strips and pop rivets! NCRS would like me even less!
Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I thought about that for a very long time but since it was out I decided to go the other way.
I like the Corvette forum but, there are a lot of folks that get their panties in a wad over decals, factory chalk marks and other annoying silly shit that I find both sad and laughable at the same time.
Update: We got it running fairly well and yesterday I ran the valves and went down a 1/2 turn. After finishing I noticed a ticking sound and it appeared to be coming from the left bank so I got out my trusty cut-off broomstick looking for the source of the noise.:( I tried everything I could think of and Ian gave it a go as well all for naught.:( I got out a flashlight and lo and behold the #1 plug wire was disconnected.:rolleyes: Sure ran smooth on 7 cylinders and much better after plugging #1 back in.:D:LOL::LOL:
Ken, those people are everywhere, we call them a$$ holes. It's suppose to be about having FUN, somewhere along the way they lost sight of the prime objective...Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
I like Corvettes, but when I worked in the Chevy dealership about 80% of the Corvette owners were a complete pain in the butt to deal with.
I’ve spent quite a few hours on the internet reading about ZDDP, additives, and which oil to use. I’m more confused about it now then before all of the reading. **) It seems there are a bazzillion different opinions on it. Between my wife and I, we have four vehicles with flat tappets. I can’t decide which oil is best to use.
The 66 Mustang I gave to my grandson has a flat tappet cam and it's run 5W or 10W 30 Pennzoil since I built it in 79. I never ran anything but 5w/30 Pennzoil in the Vette before I let it drastically overheat which ruined the cam.
Chasing another leak which I thought was a ticking lifter, but it was an exhaust leak.:( All of the exhaust manifold bolts were somewhat loose with the right bank being the worst. I'll run the valves again and set the timing and we should be good to go.:3dSMILE:
One step forward then two steps backward.
Missouri requires a state safety inspection to renew license plates and the Vett was due in July. Too much play in both the idler arm and pitman arm, so now I'm awaiting the two parts from Willcox Corvette to come via UPS.:mad: It's driveable though there is some excess play in the steering which means it's confined to the garage, it sure does run good though.:D