I've got a '78 Mercury Monarch with a 302 in it and I changed it from a two barrel to a 4. When I put the distributor back in the timing is WAY off, but if i try to put it where it should be it dies. Any ideas on what to do??
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I've got a '78 Mercury Monarch with a 302 in it and I changed it from a two barrel to a 4. When I put the distributor back in the timing is WAY off, but if i try to put it where it should be it dies. Any ideas on what to do??
Try the search button for timming. Streets has told people how to fix their timing problems several times, and there should be an answer to your problem there. And it will save me from a bunch of typing and anyone else.
~ Vegas ~
Put #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, set the timing mark on the dampner to zero, put your distributor in, hook up the timing light and set the advance to spec.
Your saying to set the #1 cylinder to tdc then move the dampner how? Then put in the dist. in and time it
If #1 is at TDC, the damper will be at 0 degrees. Put in the distributer so that the rotor is aiming at the #1 plug wire. That should get it started so that you can time it.
that's the problem, the dist. is in the right place, But it has to be far retarded for it to run (about 3 inches down from the timing mark)
Probably a stupid question, but are you sure that you are checking the timing on the right plug wire?
yep
Set the engine at the base timing that you want for the dizzy...14* is a good start on a Windsor. Point the timing mark right at it on the damper.
Make sure the dizzy is pointed at #1 port on the cap.
Turn on the ignition key and hook a grounded spark plug to the coil wire. (make this by soldering an alligator clip to a spark plug and clamping it to an intake bolt).
Turn the distributor by hand until the plug fires. That will be damn close to the 14* on the damper.
Reset and fine tune with a timing light.
I'd say you have the distributor one tooth off on the cam. When #1 pops on the compression stroke, takes a miracle to get the timing mark to land exactly on zero, you may have to move it a few degrees to get the timing right on zero. Rotate the dampner to zero with a socket on the crank bolt.
I have a ford 302 with a b-m mini blower running 6 pounds of boost. I have severe detonation problems with the timing set at
10 degrees initial. What should my total tining be at 4000 rpm?
Should the dist vacuum hose go on top of the carb butterflies or below?
Would an ajustible vacuum advance help?
Mcfly6
60buick - If you'r timing chain is bad,you are having to take up the slack by retarding or advancing the dist. Larry
Hello larry i just put on a new edelbrock double roller timing chain on it. I did find out that my initial advance at idle with vacuum advance disconected is 6 degrees not ten to 12 like i thought it should be. I have a 65 falcon ranchero its raced out i got the engine running good enough to smoke the tires once again **)Quote:
Originally posted by falconkid
60buick - If you'r timing chain is bad,you are having to take up the slack by retarding or advancing the dist. Larry
Now if i could just get the front end alighned so i can safely use my horsepower :whacked:
I did a burnout several months ago and lost control and ran into a ditch :CRY: Been having trouble with front end ever since :mad:
Oh well time to pay the money and get it alighned.
martin.
Now if i could just get the front end alighned so i can safely use my horsepower :whacked:
I did a burnout several months ago and lost control and ran into a ditch :CRY: Been having trouble with front end ever since :mad:
I'd take a hard look at the frame because I bet it's bent. I did the same thing to a '66 Mustang a few years ago and that was the end result.