early 80's 350

I enlarged your pictures and it appears that there are some serious issues here:
1. The number three piston is chipped around the edges
2. The tops of the pistons appear to be pitted and scratched
3. Bore look glazed – typically see crosshatch from honing on a newly rebuilt engine
4. Block and head surfaces are rough and pitted. They will not seal well to gaskets in their present condition.

As the risk of sounding patronizing, I agree with Jerry – you need some help as it’s obvious you do not know what you’re doing. There’s no crime in not knowing and you’d do well to buy a couple books and read up on building engines. And by the way, Jerry was born with no more experience that anyone on this site however; you should know that he’s been building real fast cars for probably more years than you’ve been alive and he’s respected as one of the best in the world. He may be “brutally honest” but you should “check your attitude at the door” and listen to him, Pat and others here who have a lot of expertise but really very little patience with those who already “know everything…”

At a minimum, you need to consider the following:
1. Dissemble engine completely. Hot tank the block and check it for cracks. If the block is solid, have it decked to square. Get dowel pins installed.
2. Hone the block and get new pistons and rings that are fitted to the block.
3. When you get the block back from the machine shop make sure you really scrub that baby down with hot soapy water. I like Dawn dish washing liquid and water straight from the bottom of the water heater. Put the block on the engine stand and dry with compressed air really well. Make sure you have a 55 degree or warmer day and paint the inside of the engine. I use Glyptal. Its $50 a quart from Eastwood – buy the brush on and a quart will do the job real nice. Also paint the exterior at this time too. Let everything dry real well – at least 48 hours.
4. Have the heads checked for cracks. If they’re good, have them decked to square and get a good valve job with new guides and seals.
5. Use new ARP bolts everywhere when reassembling
6. Use good assembly lube and proper tools for the job. Keep everything nice and clean as you go.

We have not seen the cam, but if it’s in similar shape, well – it could be bad as well. Post some pictures of the cam.

We’ll help you if you let us..

Regards,
Glenn

i concur with glenn on most what he posted. but i am thinking you try to low buck this job as what i see are pistons that must of been used and seen some wire wheeled the tops of them clean at one time in there life. there some thing you can round a corner or two. Do deck the block . Do cut the decks of the heads . Do hone and rering it .Do go back and do what i said in post #5 cam bearing could be beat up as well and you should deck the block they need to come out to clean the block any ways at the very least stuff a rag in them when decking the block and take out number #5 cam bearing out to clean the trash out from under it . has for painting the inside of block or arp head bolts if you not really carefull the glypa can fall out or if you do not take your time doing it can gun up lifter bore and keep them from turning .that could wipe the cam . so it needs to be really clean clean clean for paint . stock job paints not needed same with head bolts engine quest bolts are fine built many many engine with just them . i would see that money spent for mill and hone and rings if you have money left over buy the arp bolts and glypta

I'm good with Pat's instructions, re; Glyptal and ARP bolts. I personally like to have everything down to virgin material and then the Glyptal helps keep everything real clean. My real concern with used bolts is just making sure they all get back in their correct places. That 1/4" can make a big difference in the length and I've seen some nasty cracks and all kinds of leaks that have been caused by people using the incorrect length bolt. On the same note, a chase tap to clean threads is a good idea here to as my guts tell me there may be some wollie-buggers (technical term for "crap") in some of the blind holes..

Regards,
Glenn

so put sealer on all intake bolts except the outside 4? what about the head studs? anything need to be put on them?

Oil the threads on your head bolts. If you use the old ones, hit the threads with a wire brush.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Oil the threads on your head bolts. If you use the old ones, hit the threads with a wire brush.

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NO you do not all threads are in a open deck threads in deck are not bind less you want a lot of water in your oil . you oil the under silde of bolt head use sealer on all threads

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jburcham04

so put sealer on all intake bolts except the outside 4? what about the head studs? anything need to be put on them?

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its no big deal if all them have sealer on them but yes end bolts on chevy sbc head on intake side are blind

//////////// sorry i am in the wrong grear