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Thread: Olds 455 runs hot - dyno 210hp rear wheel
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    richnee is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sep 2010
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    Raleigh
    Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Olds Cutlass Conv
    Posts
    1

    Olds 455 runs hot - dyno 210hp rear wheel

     



    Guys,

    I have several issues with my rebuilt 455 olds engine: 1st) the car runs hot. I have added 165F thermostat, new 4 core radiator, removed the ac unit to allow air flow and the fan is a std 6 blade thermostatic controlled clutch fan which did make it better , however it still runs hot over time. The last thing I can think of is to add a fan shroud. What else can I do? 2nd) I did a dyno - the rear wheel hp 210 with 300 ftlbs. torque - I'm lost......Could my cam be improperly positioned?

    Here’s my build:
    Block: 1974 Olds 455
    Machining: Bored over .060 = 468 cubic in, Block is Square and Align Bored
    Pistons: Probe SRS 2618-16 Aluminum Forged Part #14476-060 10:1 ratio
    Stroke 4.250, C/H 1.735, Bore 4.185, Weight 564/578g
    Heads: 1968 Iron heads - 403686E 80cc 2.000, 1.625″ Milled: .005 /.010”
    Cam: Isky Cat #691271 Grind Style -270-MEGA HYDRAULIC
    Specs: RPM: 2000-6000, Lift: .496, Dur: 270° Dur: 221°, Lobe:108°
    Timing Chain: Cloyes
    Intake Manifold: Performer Edelbrock Aluminum 2151
    Carburetor: 1402010VE - 750 cfm Speed Demon - Electric choke w/Vacuum
    Exhaust Manifold: Thornton Reproduction 1965-1967 w/functioning damper.
    Modello: Windage Tray-WT-200 & Valley Tray – VT-581
    Waterpump: Alum AP403
    Pulleys: Alum
    Rear End: chevy 10 bolt 3:42 posi
    Trans: 350 Auto 3 speed w/shift kit
    Radiator: 4 core
    Fan: 6 Blade thermostatically controlled clutch fan.
    Air Cleaner: Forced Air Induction

    Your thoughts would greatly be appreciated,
    Rich
    Last edited by richnee; 09-18-2010 at 08:24 PM.

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    A shroud is very important for proper cooling, makes the air come through the radiator and not just around it.
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  3. #3
    406Rich's Avatar
    406Rich is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: `37 Ford Bus Coupe
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    Change your thermostat to a 192, to give it more time in the radiator..ensure all air is purged out of coolant system...
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  4. #4
    RestoRod's Avatar
    RestoRod is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Graham Sharknose :58 MGA/Ford V6
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    How is your timing? Running hot and low HP could mean late ignition timing.
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  5. #5
    t0oL's Avatar
    t0oL is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: track T (toronado drive)
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    wow I'd expect LOTS more hp from this.
    have one (Olds 455) laying around to install myself

  6. #6
    johnretired is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1972 nova
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    Make sure it isn't running too lean.

  7. #7
    davefox is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 72 Olds 442 W-30
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    Olds 455

     



    I have a 455 in my W-30 that I built about 10 years ago and I run headers. My first question is why you have a damper on the exhaust manifold as those engines warm up just fine in factory trim without one. How hot is hot, I run a 160 in mine and it stays a nice balmy 165 with a 4 tube brass core, this is a 72 factory 4spd W-30 car. Gets up to 185 or so on a 95deg day. It has always run up around 210 or a little more with the funky 3 tube core it came with and the factory cam.

    Next question is did you use the advance/retard chain set from Cloyes and how much did you advance/retard it.

    455 .060 over
    C casting heads
    Mondello JM 28-29 cam (ugly idle)
    Rhodes lifters
    Offy Port-O-Sonic intake with QuickFuel 850 annular
    Milodon Cheater gear drive at 0 degrees

    Really low numbers anyway, I would expect 400 @ high 400's or a little more torque.

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