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Thread: Starter Burnt Solenoid Problem Ignition S Wire Ok
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    SmokeShow01's Avatar
    SmokeShow01 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Question Starter Burnt Solenoid Problem Ignition S Wire Ok

     



    Hi, the other day, started my '76 GM Pick-Up with a ZZ4 350, and checked the oil and thought, better head out for an oil change, I noticed a sound, sounded like dry metal on dry metal, not very noticeable, drove about a block something sounded like a Click under the hood and engine stopped running, I put it in neutral and costed to a stop. Smoke was coming up from the passengers side of motor, headers were not even hot yet, but starter was hot enough to cook some bacon on extra crispy.

    Today, got underneath vehicle and noticed starter was still engaged with fly wheel, and think that over-revving caused heat and starter to cook.

    I removed the starter, I did a continuity test on the 'S' wire and everything is good there, but I tried to trigger the starter with 12volts but starter is cooked.

    How do I know for sure if the motor is cooked or solenoid? What is the resistance supposed to be?
    What would cause the solenoid to stick or keep the stater engaged with fly wheel?

    One more question, with the stater removed, when I put the key in the ignition, and turn it on, nothing works, not even the head lights come one, does this relate to starter not being installed and all wires hooked up?

    Thanks, sorry about long post.

    ZZ4 350, TCI SSF 700R4, 4.10

  2. #2
    Bruce lee is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Your battrey cable is hooked to the starter. You took the starter out so no power can get to any of your system.

    Starters need to be checked for starter gear to flywheel clearance, too tight and the starter gear won't retract back in

  3. #3
    SmokeShow01's Avatar
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    Thanks Bruce

     



    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce lee View Post
    Your battrey cable is hooked to the starter. You took the starter out so no power can get to any of your system.

    Starters need to be checked for starter gear to flywheel clearance, too tight and the starter gear won't retract back in
    K Bruce, just wanted to confirm that, I know it sounds simple, but I just wanted to confirm that.
    When I removed the starter, there were no shims, I might add a 1/16".

    Thanks Bruce.

    Any thoughts on rebuilding? Do I just have to replace the stater body, i.e, the windings, if the wires got cooked?

  4. #4
    SmokeShow01's Avatar
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    Went to Alternator/Starter Repair shop, had the whole starter rebuilt, the whole unit was cooked, solenoid, windings, armature, bearings, cost me $265, new OEM would have cost $600, non OEM would have been cheaper as well, but mine was Special, in that it is for a 153 tooth fly wheel, and it being a performance starter, whatever that means, if it has more torque.
    I have dertermined that as a result of low voltage, as a result of an older battery that may have been over-charged (as it was swollen) but still held a charge as long as you drove it daily. But a Low Voltage condition contributed to Solenoid Contacts Melting and causing the drive gear to stay engaged with fly wheel and over-revving starter motor causing heat build-up and everything inside to cook.
    A fresh battery $125, a newly rebuilt starter $265 could have been avoided if I replaced the battery when I should have

  5. #5
    buzz4041's Avatar
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    Smokeshow make sure that your rebuilt starter when installed is at the correct position. Check it to make sure sure you have the proper clearance and shim as needed to get it correct. Don't just start adding shims. Only shim if you need to. Here is a link to help you out .http://www.allstarperformance.com/do...ni_Starter.pdf

  6. #6
    SmokeShow01's Avatar
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    PG 250 Delco Remy Starter 9 tooth was installed on a Turn Key Crate Engine GMPP ZZ4 350, and the starter on that engine is Part # 10465143
    This starter is obsolete? Some would say so, I have various quotes, GM says 500 bucks, on-line it says anywhere from 50-335 bucks... also, Pick and Pull, apparently, there are other models Chevy built that accepts this starter.

    The rebuilt now is giving me problems, I think it is due to Heat Soak, being so close to the Cheapo headman headers, there is a lot of heat near the starter, maybe causing me premature break down...will get some heat shield in there as well...

    I am wanting a New Starter, but re-manufactured sounds great (don't want Made in China), but don't want more problems...so why not an original "New" starter out of a wreck at the Pick n Pull?

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