I have looked at the ryanspage combos. Do you guys have any other links to others for a strip only ,light vehicle?
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I have looked at the ryanspage combos. Do you guys have any other links to others for a strip only ,light vehicle?
Depends on what you want to spend.... If you want "the good stuff", as in American made crank and rods instead of the imports, check out the "max effort" Howards Cams stuff.
Competitionproducts.com
I've used one of there packages on a big Ford, still strong after 3 seasons!
I could think of some good budget SB 350 Chevy one ? And they will push your Vega real good ! :eek: Do you know what size engine you want to run ? And what blocks and heads do you have to work with now ? :HMMM:
Right now I have a set of Dart Pro1 215cc heads, 23 degree at 64cc's . The bigger the cubes the better, 383 ,or 406 stock block 2 bolt splayed and filled. I plan on using some nitrous also. I am also going to use a 8.5" wide slick for now also so some thing that I have to drop at 5000rpm might be a little much. Thanks
At what point do I need a Dominator carb?:confused: I found a good deal on a Super Victor intake for a dominator carb. I figure I could run a adapter for a square carb for now if need be.
you can get the dominator in a 750 but for a 1050 you would want to be over 400 CID i would i would think them heads would work on a smaller engine if your dumping NOs to it i would look at the dart block like the 434ft kit that comp sells and used a custom soild roller made for Nos and that would do the trick
I guess if I were forced to run a sbc (highly unlikely) in a drag car, I think with the right cam and heads this would be one I would consider:
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...umber=RATP406D
And what do you think the right camshaft and heads would be ? Oh you will need an Intake / carb and dist To :HMMM:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Well, seeing as how the last sbc I ran was in a sprint car in the late 70's I would call my favorite cylinder head shop, discuss with him what the rest of the engine is, the intended usage of the car, and that I am after consistent power rather then peak horsepower and have him pick me the correct heads then do the required tweaking of them on the flow bench.... I would also have him match and flow the intake for the engine then have him spec the mechanical roller cam to be compatible with the engine.... I prefer a good crank trigger setup on drag cars for the ignition and am currently running a carb out of the Vindicator shop....very pleased with it so I'd more then likely just buy another one.... I would suspect they would build me a 750 Dominator based carb that will have a real flow rate in the 780 to 810 CFM range....Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
I discovered years ago that going with the experts who deal with engines like this on a daily basis and have first hand experience with the components will yield the best results..... The last time I worked in an automotive machine shop and had access to a flow bench was better then 20 years ago so I'm quite sure the technology has changed considerably since then. Working with an expert who has a proven track record to me is a much more accurate way to get the correct components the first time then studying mounds of biased tech data and performance claims from the various manufacturer's.
When everything is blue printed, checked, rechecked, assembled, and in the car, and the initial run in and adjustments done my next stop is Andy's shop in Watertown for a few pulls on the chassis dyno then on to the track with a car that is built and tuned to the "kill" position and start laying down some very quick and repeatable passes!!!!!
I know you have said it before but I will have to ask again.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
What gear do you have?
What is your stall speed?
What is your vehicle weight?
Is this engine on pump gas or race gas?
Sounds Like a plan . And a few guy's will make some money building it ! :HMMM: But for Hot Rodders on a set Budget . it's not a good combo . If you have that kind of money to spend . May as well go out and buy a Dyno-ed crate Engine . But for me that take all the fun out of Hot Rodding a car . Back in the day we home built engines and they worked . And to day with more speed parts at hand . We can build even better engines at are homes . COOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Not trying to start a fight here.Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
If you order all these parts from $ummit or -egs then you assemble the engine yourself and then you fire it up and then you go out and test it.
How do you know if your A/F ratio is even close??
How do you know where to set your timing??
How do you know when you advance or retard your timing if it is helping or hurting your power??
Your not going to tell me you can tell by the "seat of your pants" are you??
Yes and no . ( Seat of the pants ) and my 50-mile away( E.T Dyno ). But first I will have to pass the Tech-spec . But at that track they just check for drive shaft Loops .
Well, guess I didn't see anything about budget constraints..... Not all of us are satisfied with the performance level obtained from home porting some factory heads and bolting something together with stock rods, cheap pistons, and an out of the box Holley..... If that's what you want, that's fine... For me it's a case of been there, done that.... Once you buy the good stuff, pay the guys with the 5 axis CNC machine to do the machine work and porting, then go out and run in the 8's or 9's with a solid, reliable engine and drivetrain that is capable of repeating itself round after round it's tough to go back....Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
As I've said before, there is sooooooo much more to going fast then just the engine. When my budget is too small I either wait longer or do something to generate more revenue, but then we've had this discussion before and it went nowhere. And why not buy a dynoed crate engine??? If it matches the performance level I want at a price I'm willing to pay I know for a fact that I can't build the same engine for any less money!!!!!!
Generally on the chassis dyno we get everything tweaked in 2 or 3 pulls at a cost of about $200.00. To garner the same knowledge it would take a 65 mile tow to the track and probably half a dozen passes to achieve the same tune. When on the dyno, we don't have to wait in staging lines to make a pass, then hope to get some work done and get back in line to get a couple passes in before eliminations start. Been there, done that and hurried through the mornings' time trials and get in maybe 3 passes, shut the car off clean on the big end, tow it back, read plugs, try to get close on the jetting and timing then start 1st round of eliminations not having a firm handle on what the car is going to do performance wise. After our chassis dyno time we can go to the track, put down a pass or two and chart the performance off our old run sheets, make the necessary adjustments to compensate for weather and track changes and pull into staging for the 1st round of eliminations knowing what the car is going to do.... We don't lose money on the dyno time, it's just another tool to be competitive when it's time to race.... I'm not implying this is the only way to go racing, just that we've learned over the years that a properly prepared car is a competitive car and to achieve that you have to use every "tool" at your disposal.....Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
As for a track tech inspection that only checks for driveshaft hoops!!!!!!! Guess that would make me a bit nervous about what kind of junk the guy in the other lane is running and whether or not he can go through the quarter without bouncing off my car to get there!!!! IMO the tech guys are there to improve MY SAFETY on the track, and not just some source of aggravation........
Dave,I wish you would tell all my customers that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I am getting very tired of putting together junk that the customers thought would work.
Because some idiot on a phone at $ummit or -egs said it would.
Most of the cars that are built by the Members here are . Street / street/strip or weekend Drag cars . And yes you can use rebuilt rods and ported factory heads and some Holley D/Ps from out the box to do so . Who is building the PRO-STOCK car ? Tell us what one of these race engine's will Co$t my Friend :HMMM: :LOL:
Why not go back and read both of the posts Dave has made.Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
I think you may have missed many of his points.
The one that he showed the Rotating Assemblie . or the one where he wanted to pay some guy's to pick the heads camshaft and intake for him . I told you I don't have free money to burn ! :HMMM:Quote:
Originally Posted by erik erikson
I was refering to posts # 13 and 14.Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
O the PRO-STOCK build . Still waiting for Dave's reply on the co$t of that build ?Quote:
Originally Posted by erik erikson
Sorry, I don't run Pro Stock, no idea what the engine's cost....We run Super Gas.
You just keep missing the point, don't you??? I don't pay anyone to pick my parts..... I buy my parts from people who build race heads and engines for a living.... I defer to their expertise....
I don't have money to burn either....that's why I spend it wisely and get the best possible performance for the money invested..... That means I don't use the hit and miss method, I get the right stuff the first time.....
I don't think we're comparing things correctly..... Just what ET do you turn at the track????
Sponsor's have always been a great help!!!! Not the easiest thing to find and it takes some finesse to keep them.... All a matter of showing them that their name on your car will put money in their bank account.....
Dave,he has missed your points over and over again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
You may have to repeat yourself.
Yeah well, I'm used to it.....Quote:
Originally Posted by erik erikson
I run Street / Strip cars . They are cars that I can drive to the store and work . And run in the 12s . But I have built 11 sec SB Strip cars that were built at home . With re-bored blocks iron heads and rebuilt rods . And they did not co$t me half of what you are talking about building :LOL: Money is Tight my Friend :HMMM:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Money's tight here, too... That's why I do things to generate extra money and work so hard to take care of sponsors. We run 9's, with two cars. Probably a third next year for my "new" driver who will be doing his apprenticeship this summer in a high 10 car...
There is a huge difference in what it takes to run competitively in a 12 second car vs. a 9 second car..... So, don't get on my case.... I've paid my dues, all the way from a mid 14 sec. Ford Fairlane to being the "hired gun" in a top alcohol car, and back to where I am now.... I didn't do anything by being satisfied with my performance level and was willing to do what it takes to go faster. I never let the lack of money stand in my way but only considered it one more obstacle to overcome.... Running Super Gas is a blast!!!! We overbuild for the class then detune and or throttle stop back to a 9.90. When you qualify in a 16 car field and the fastest car is 9.900 and the 16th place car is a 9.915 you know you've accomplished something....But it's really the same feeling of accomplishment as coming out winner in a 250 car field of bracket racers in a 12 second car. What I don't understand is why you think I'm not a "real" racer just because I spend the money that I work hard to earn and can put it in a race budget because of careful planning???? I've done my time in the 12's, it was fun but I had to go faster.... If you don't want to run a nine second car, then why the constant harrassment directed at those of us who do??????
That's fine If you want to tow you car to the track to drive it . But I am happy with a Street / Strip car . In the 80s we did the point's racing thing . We were #2 in are class . I did not Like it . I find a street car much more fun . How many of the car's on this forum drop in the 10s . Yes I can build a 9 sec car and I have help my friend with his high 9s 468 BB Chevy . Maybe we can do a poll on what kind of cars we build ? This may give you a better idea about what I am trying to tell you .
Ya know what???? I don't care what you or anyone else on this forum or any other forum runs... I run what suits me best (for now) and constantly strive to improve our performance level. Don't talk to me about building cars, I do it all day, ever day and have for the last 30 years!!!! Point is I know what I want and I do what I have to do to get there. Street strip cars are nothing but a comprimise and I hate comprimises. Given the right circumstances and the right backing, I'll sell everything and move up a class or two someday. Point is, I'm willing to do what it takes to get there and not use money or the lack of it as an excuse for not doing it!!!! Or as they say, "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch". Yeah, I know that's not nice. Big deal. Tired of folks putting me down because I have worked my ass off the last 40 years and I'm proud of what I have, but it's still not all I want!!!! I want to go faster, run nicer stuff, and hire a crew chief.... and this makes me less of a racer then you porting heads in your basement, using stock rods, and trying to convince me and others that you are totally content with a 12 second car???? My question is this.... Is that all you want, or is at all the harder you are willing to work to get what you want???? Excuse me, but I will not apologize for being good at what I do and wanting to be better!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
WOW REAL NICE :HMMM: :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
then GET OFF MY CASE and don't bore me by challenging me with what heads to use on a sbc... Don't know, don't care, don't have the time to learn. But I do have the phone number of an expert who knows!!!! I can pay him to do it while I'm working on other things. That's called time management, it's one of the things you learn to do when you have to work smarter instead of just harder!!!!! I'm an "expert" on automatic transmissions and drag carbs, too.... Want the phone numbers of the shops I use???? If you do it all yourself, you can only do one thing at a time..... If you defer to the experts, you can accomplish multiple tasks simultaneously.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
Well, then quit defending him and tell him to get off my case!!!!! I've been there done that....My point is that you don't have to settle for that if you are willing to do what it takes to go faster!!!!!!! We should all run 12's and never want to go faster???????? I don't think so!!!!!!
Well, I guess about all he's ever done with me is read things into everything I write and try to portray me as the bad guy for wanting to go faster and use better parts..... Guess I just want it more then most.....Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
And I hope you get it ! I am very Happy with my 12 sec street car's . There great fun :) COOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Hope you guys are finished with your little contest ,who can piss the furthest....
Anyways I just received my catalog from competition products and they have some great deals . It looks like I would be buying from them for now. And Dave I am seriously looking into getting the kit you pointed out.
I've run some of their products, no complaints!!!! When you have questions, or application concerns they have some very good techs, too... Oh yeah, and don't forget to check the clearance pages in the back of the catalog, scored some very good deals out of there!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
i am a dealer thru them . i pick up my seat and guild machine from them use to buy alot of parts from them:3dSMILE: there techs are ok nice place been thereQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Another place that has good deals is www.starperf.com :) SB Chevy Tango :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver