Any Home-remedies for a Stuck Engine?

If this topic has been covered (and I'm sure it has sometime, I just can't find it), please steer me in the right direction. Thanks

A buddy is doing a favor for a friend and is trying to redo a rare find. When the car was parked, it ran. It has been stored for years. Now the motor is stuck. He has put Kroil in the cylinders for about two weeks, with no relief. Does anyone have a "secret" for unsticking a stuck motor? I've heard kerosene, diesel fuel, Marvel Mystery Oil, even (years ago) Coca-Cola.

now thats really stuck...Is it rusted solid? Is it out of the car and on stand. You started to talk about coca cola wich is used to combat rust. Its a rare find so you need to be careful on what you use. My first thought is submerged in in water and using electrolysis to dissolve all the rust, it will not hurt the metal. Then you should be able to clean up and reassemble.

Iodine works, but you have to get all the other stuff off first, it won't soak through a lot of oil.

I had a 455 Olds engine that sat for a Long time . It would not turn with a breaker bar . I found out after removing the rocker arm it would turn over easy . I found that two of the valves were rusted at the seats . I took a block of wood and placed it on the top of all the valves and lightly hit them with a large hammer ( lightly ) You do not want to bend a valve . Then I re-installed the rockers and used that engine . It ran fine .

The motor is in the car. I'd say that replacement parts - pistons, rings, rods, etc. could be found, but the cost, I'm sure, would be a BIG issue and that is the reason for trying to free it without destroying anything.

Maybe run it through a big oven.This will make the metal swell a little.

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Originally Posted by '32 skidoo

The motor is in the car. I'd say that replacement parts - pistons, rings, rods, etc. could be found, but the cost, I'm sure, would be a BIG issue and that is the reason for trying to free it without destroying anything.

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Just back off all the valves . Remove all the spark plugs . Then spray some WD-40 Into all the cylinders . Then take a long breaker Bar and go a quarter of a turn back and forth . When it breaks free more go half turns . Then all the way around . By doing it this way . You may get -by not breaking any piston rings .

I have used TANGO'S method befor,IF the WD40 dosn't work try squirting some transmission fluid in the cylinders and let that soak for A few days befor trying to turn engine over.when your buddy get's it freed up and running Id have him do A compression check on each cylinder just to make sure no rings were damaged in the process.(GOING TO SMOKE LIKE A FREIGHT TRAIN )for awile.

yes atf works well at freeing alot of things up. have used it on motorcycle chains, motors, and other stuff :D

Hay GASSER will it work on my wife's wallet for more car money?

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Originally Posted by FIDO

Hay GASSER will it work on my wife's wallet for more car money?

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GOOD TO SEE YOU BACK HERE :) COOL

just take it whens shes asleep and order up some jegs :D

drain the oil,fill the whole thing to the top of the carb with diesil fuel. check every day as it goes down as it will slowly fill up the bottom end. give it at least a month longer if its cold and then drain it all out plus remove the plugs and see what happens if you can get a breaker bar on the crank.
this wat gets the fluid everywhere even the backside of the piston rings

Thanks, guys. I'll pass these along. If anyone has any more suggestions, I'm sure that they would be appreciated.

The car has been in storage for around 30+ years. Apparently it was never started after that. Everything about the car is near perfect other than the motor. The car? An early 60's Maserati.

Don't strip the balancer bolt!
If it's really stuck, bolt something to the balancer instead.

Pat

Pull all the rockers, get all the valves closed. Take out the plugs, and make an adapter that will take the end of a high pressure washer. Give each cylinder a blast of that, and it'll break the pistons loose. If it's not really rusted, just a rubber end on the wand will seal good enough sometimes.

I don't think I would use water in the cyl's, if it doesn't work or if it does work, you have your worst enemy (next to metal shavings) for a motor in your cyl's & block! :eek:
I would pull it apart 1st.
If it's a stick, give it a shove and pop the clutch in 3rd or 4th gear.

Pat

I have read of people making an adapter that screws into a sparkplug hole, finding a cylinder that has both valves in the closed position, and filling that cylinder with hydraulic oil. They then take one of the lever activated hydraulic pumps, similar to the pump in the base of a cherrypicker hydraulic cylinder, and gradually pump up hydraulic pressure in the cylinder untill it breaks free. I have never done this, but it seemed like a novel and rather logical approach.----Brian---Funny story---I had an uncle back in the early sixties who bought an old Fargo half ton truck with a frozen flat head 6 cylinder in it. It was frozen from setting for about 15 years. He pulled the plugs, filled all the cylinders with deisel fuel and left it for a week. Then with the plugs still out, he chained the old Fargo up to the back bumper of my old Chev car, and told me to "get the Chev up to about 40 mph on a paved road, and he would set in the truck with the tranny in high gear and the clutch in". When I reached 40mph, I flashed the lights, and he dropped the clutch. It broke the motor loose, but it bent about 5 valves that were frozen into the guides. Not one to be easily daunted, my uncle went out in the shed, had a drink of white lightning, then pulled the head off and pulled the offending valves. He used some emery cloth on the valve stems to get the rust off, got out his 5 pound hammer, and straightened the valve stems against a big old hardwood block, untill they 'looked good", then using the same head gasket and lots of gasket shellac, he reassembled everything. the truck ran good, but---NOISY---My God, you could hear that truck coming from 5 miles away, the valves clattered so badly. He drove that old truck for about 5 years before the motor actually gave up.

If it's as bad as he said . Better to pull the engine out and remove the heads before he damages the engine more then it may be all ready .

I went by this morning and took the suggestions up to that time and saw the engine. The head has been pulled It's a '61 inline 6, wet cylinders, dbl points, 2 plugs/cyl. We poured some Sea Foam in each cylinder. We dragged the car with no results other than two black marks across the pavement. The cylinders look clean. No rust.

If that engine is as rare as indicated, haul it out to an engine stand and disassemble it carefully. Yes, I would continue to soak it fully with something like Kroil/ATF/WD-40 to try to break it loose, but my guess is that the iron rings may be rust frozen solidly to the cylinder walls - and without knowing what this engine is manufactured from - aluminum with iron cylinder bore liners (most likely), you may have an entire engine full of fluffy white crap which is oxidized aluminum. Yanking and twisting may damage it beyond any reasonable economic repairs and hope - after 30 years of neglect.