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I was reading on another web site that Mobil recently changed the formula in their synthetic oil to a less expensive mix. Please note that they didn't change the price!!!
If this is true, and if anyone has heard otherwise please speak up and provide links, which is a better alternative, Royal Purple or Amsoil. I'm inclined to lean toward Amsoil.:confused:
You're in luck we have an Amsoil guy that recently joined. I hope he sees this and gives you some good info.
Do you have anything to verify the fact, or just talk on another website?
This info is out there - but bear in mind that it's on Amsoil's site:
http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-chang...-1-results.php
You also might want to read this:
http://www.technilube.com/sections/comps/synth_diff.htm
The best oils are Group IV PAO (Polyalphaolefin) . As far as I know Mobil 1 (0w-40), Royal Purple and Amsoil's Original Synthetic, Series 2000, Series 3000 oils are all Group IV PAO. Most other "synthetic" oils are not Group IV PAO.
Amsoil's XL7500 is a Group III hydrocracked oil. I understand that other versions of Mobil 1 have switched to a Group III hydrocracked base, but I'm not sure which ones. I use the 0w-40 anyhow.
Conventional wistom says that the Group IV POA-based oils are superior, there's still a question of how much better.
Redline is a Group V POE (POLYOL ESTER)oil - and you pay the price for it.
That's some good reading there,thanks.... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
As I said,it was just talk on an Autocross bulletin board, the guy had no facts to back it up. I think a switch to Amsoil might be cheap insurance though.
Try this one www.bobistheoilguy.com
Since synthetics cost the consumer way more than regular oil there is no economical advantage aside from any gained protection factors. And for folks who thought they could run synthetic 15-20,000 miles before changing they forgot to amortize the cost of adding more oil- say a quart every 2-3,000 miles. So how do you end up with the same oil in 15,000 miles after you add 5-7 quarts during that time at $4-5 a pop? And you still gotta change filters too.
There is no cost benefit per mile in synthetic. If you believe in their chemical superiority in engine protection that's another thing. But there is no plus for the average daily commute vehicle. I know people with performance vehicles that use synthetic and change it at no more than 3-5,000 because they believe it is better stuff and cost be damned.
Yep, but there is economic advantage if your engine lasts longer. My '93 Vette has used Mobil 1 since it was new, and it now has 135,000 miles on it. There isn't a particle of sludge - and if you pull the valve covers, heads look brand new. I change my oil about 4 times a year, with a total cost of about $120, including filter (K&N, by the way). With dino oil, it would cost about half that. That isn't much of a cost penalty to get the best product.
Ask all the questions you need . Go to bobsoil, Etc. Try one thing as a suggestion. Try it in your crankcase. See if you notice a difference or even like it. This is what this site is for. Research and diving into the issues. Then I would suggest doing some research on the advantages and disadvantages of the synthetics. Molecular structures, etc. Everybody has their opinion on petrol based versus synthetic. Try it and form your opinion on the stuff. We all want our rides to perform at their best.
i dunno on my motorcycle, (2003 Yamaha Roadstar Silverado) i picked up about 5 mpg after switching to royal purple, i've also noticed a difference in the power and it cut down on noise from the motor....
I run Mobil 1 in everything.... Never have had a bit of trouble with it....
I run Mobil 1 in most of my vehicle's, my work van get's Pennzoil synthetic just because that's who we use to do our oil changes on the company truck's. I used to be a quart low everytime I went to have my oil changed 4-5K since I switched to synthetic it is never low.
Heck even my lawn mowers run synthetic.
heck yeah buddy.... i put it in my skillsaw, my air compressor and my lawnmower..... never ran better :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B.
We run Mobil 1 in our race motors, never had a problem. Last year we ran Amsoil for two races....two motor failures. Both were valve train problems, the engine builder said oil was the cause. We are back to Mobil 1 and have had no more issues. That's all I will now run in my truck don't care what it costs.....
how did he determine the oil was the cause??? If he had taken an oil sample and the results showed the oil was the cause,,,then I could believe him...but without an oil sample,,,an opinion as to why you had the problem,,cannot be based on the oil....I am sorry.....but proof.....not speculation is needed......
I have run Mobil 1 for several years now with great results - including picking up at least a MPG in my 5.4 '01 F150. My 'new' '06 6.8 V10 has 7 quarts of what the dealer installed as part of his pre-delivery, and is Motorcraft 5w-20. I'll probably change to Mobil 1 10W-30 in a week or so and of course check the gas mileage - this beast needs all the help it can get. The Mobil 1 goes in clean and 5000 miles later still is very clear The '01 used no oil between changes and my wife's Escape is the same. I did try Castrol Syn-tech 2 times back to back on the '01 - and it went thru a quart every 1500 miles - then I did some decent research and came up with Mobil 1, Amsoil and Royal the best synthetic with Mobil 1 being the only one easily available locally - Wally World, K-Mart and Advance - and I do watch out for price specials.
In response to Denny's comment, Mobil 1 had major problems in the '70s when first introduced - it could sludge an engine to failure - and I, too, wouldn't use it for many years but since "Have Seen the Light":eek:
And I use it in my air compressor - but do draw the line on the gas lawn mower. The diesel baby sized tractor - I may even do this one in the fall at its' next change :3dSMILE: :whacked:
Our local Wallyworld has Mobil 1 in 5-quart containers, and it shaves almost a buck a quart from the price. I saw the same price at Autozone, but when I looked closely, it was for only 4 quarts.
I've used Mobil 1 in all my vehicles for the last 10 years, and see no reason to change. The '34 gets it's first Mobil 1 infusion after the first few hundred miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vipaworld
If you use the same engine builder, then switch oil and start sticking valves in the guides and blowing engines, then switch to a different oil and things quit breaking, guess that would be all the proof I need..... Oil analysis is to primarily show contaminants, either liquid or solid, in the oil and analyze the condition of the rotating components' bearings.... IMO a good engine builder would be more the expert at diagnosing cause for failure then some lab that looks at only the oil... One of our local guys lost a couple engines he had Amsoil in last summer, too. Came back to Mobil 1 and no more problems. Maybe not irrefutable scientific proof, but I guess it's good enough for me!