2 q's?

Got a chevy 350 that smokes to much to pass emmisions... My friend says poor Rubbing alcohol in the tank, but I'm smart enough to know thats going to do horrible things to my engine.... My dad told me about a engine oil thats Straight 70Weight, but I can't seem to find any...
1. I need something that will either stop the smoking long enough to pass emmisions, or something to help the rings grab some more...///also curious if there is a quick fix for compression? The engine has lots of miles obviously and the compression seems to be dropping...

Also, I'm about to tackle my first 700R4... now I know these transmissions are one of the harder ones to rebuild, and I want to rebuild it more on the high performance side... I want it to be capabale of taking High horsepower (500+ rating) and it would also be sweet if it was set up to spin both tires (on an open ended 2.83? gear ration.)
2. Looking for a good book with detailed instructions for rebuilding this transmission... I want to rebuild without errors: (I.e. I won't need to drop it a 2nd/3rd time to get it right && I don't want to drop it again in 10k miles to replace anything.)


Any help and suggestions is very well appreciated :)

yes there is some stuff called moola, green, benjamins, dinero,cheese,paper, get some of this stuff. You need about 600 dollars worth and it will stop the smoking for a few years.

The 700r4 that can handle 500 plus horses is not a problem at all. All you are going to need is cheese ,about 2 grand worth.

Well as far as the engine I dont really feel like tearing it down, putting new pistons/ring/bearings in it...
As far as the 700R4 thats not a problem its going to be one of those im taking my time projects anyways. :P

I would tear down the 350, but I either have to pull it, or do it in fram... but inframe has a nice thick crossmember in my way...

I'v had good luck with cheapo stop smoke additives, but there just oil thickeners.

Go to your local airfield, get some 50 weight oil. Also take out the thermostat to keep it cooler, that might decrease the smoke.You may have to run it a while to get all the unburned oil out of the exhaust pipe. Lots of luck, though, I don't think you'll fool the testers.

Valvoline sells 60 wt racing and Lucas's oil treatment helps out a bunch. Saved many diesels for opacity readings. I don't know how much smoke is coming out of your pipe, so I'm just peeing in the wind here and hoping not to get much splashed back in my face. The 700r4 is not a hard one to build. The valve body is a meticulous one so concentrate and don't let anything distract you on that piece while you're working on it. When in doubt with the clutch packs, a bit looser in clearance is a safe way to go or you'll burn the bands up faster than you care to. Chilton has an affordable manual with good pics in paperback and there are a bunch of good websites that can help you.

not to sound a bit skeptical, but i have a smog license in california and do smogs on cars in the shop i work in, even though smogs aren't the only thing i do.... but.... theres no way to really fool the 5 gas analyzer once you are to the point you're burning oil.... we've seen all the tricks and none of them work.... when it comes to everything else theres plenty of tricks, but burning oil, nope... theres two things you can do, find a smog guy that will hook up to the "wrong" car on "accident" which will be a major risk for VERY expensive fines..... or pop your engine out freshen it up and put her back together...... and i do not condone the first one(well at least thats what the state tells me to say:LOL: )

He needs to tell us how heavy is the smoke. I don't like shade tree tactics but I'm only a few miles from him and have to go to the same stations and same tests. Here in this area, it can be done if the smoke can be tamed down. They let a little be present during testing. I take customers cars all month long for their tests and deal with these boneheads a lot. If it's pouring smoke, no deal. If it's light or spuradic, the lucas and 60 or 50 wt will squeak him thru til he can resolve the issue. By the way, is this on the 73 Elko?

It puffs some nice clouds on start up, but the engine starts to pour smoke past 3,000revs...
But when I went to emmisions I passed the load test, and failed the idle.
Ill see if I can find the paperworkd but I know for the vehicle i only have the two tests cause its not smog pump or egr valve etc...

Yup my 73 elky needs to get back on the road legally. My tags have been dead for about 8 months now.

Post your numbers. I am comfortable this thing will go thru. By the way which station do you use? The boneheads change at the stations more than I change my shorts.

Greenfield and university/brown???
I dont know the station number but thats about where its located I think, in Mesa or is that gilbert? I dont know I live out in apache junction lol
Yeah I'm trying to find them now... i found the last two times it passed... but thats not helping

Here we go found it... Lets see I'll just give you guys the whole picture

Hydrocarbons (HC) in PPM - Loaded reading 118 Loaded Standard 400 (PASS)
Idle reading 740 Idle Standard 400 (FAIL)
Carbon Monoxide (CO IN %) Loaded reading .20 Standard 3.75 (PASS) Idle reading .15 Idle Standard 5.00 (PASS)


This reading was in September 2006, after it failed someone (this stupid little Apache Junction gang that i turn knuckles with) decided to smash the windsheild and i parked it... But i need to get her back on the road Cuase we are moving soon and some other stuff..
It fires right up and runs like a champ, not as strong as it used to be, but doesnt missfire, backfire or anything like that... just burns a quart of 50weight every 2 weeks or so.

Just some Lucas reading ----> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

Pat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HemiTCoupe

Just some Lucas reading ----> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

Pat

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The way its written is a little funny, but in other words he is saying not to add lucas to an already good oil, correct?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DennyW

Sounds to me like the valve guide seals is a big portion of your problems. The other past 3000 rpm's, could be the head drain backs are clogged, and with bad seals, it will smoke while driving.

You can change them without pulling the heads.

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I have a set of 350 heads with only like 7k miles on them... Would it be wise to swap them out? or is the valve guides going to be easier/less expensive...
I have never worked on the mechanics of a head, I have a basic concept of how they work, but i have only taken them off and put them onto blocks already assembled...

According to your numbers, Denny is steering the right direction. The station you referred to is the east Mesa one near Falcon Feild. It's the I use because they at least go through calibration and maintnance procedures pretty closr to what they're required to. I would try the valve guide seal idea and as of a set that work within the small block chevy valve spring, Victor (Napa) makes a set just for this deal. I like the fact that the good people here really dig and do research for ideas such as additives. Let me start off by auctioning my "Donut" for my hemmoroid problem from sitting in so many classes concernng such a notion as additives (I'm not joking about this). Like I stated earlier, I don't like going these routes until deemed neccessary. The suggestion was for getting these monkeys off our back until he can go through this thing. I have at least two of those "neat" little gear machines that snake oil salesmen have left on my counter tops and I chuckle thinking that the engines I deal with don't have a gear set up like that and not once have I been able to compare the concept of that gear box and a reciprcating engine with any similarities. One more thing before you fall asleep and hit your head on the keyboard, the last BG school I had to go through used a small block chevy with an acrylic side plate for testing Add-Packs for demonstration. Out of all the additives put into engine oil with the proper Add-Packs from the factory, Lucas was the only one out of twenty that we never saw foaming. This included being put into Sythetics and COnventional. Remember, I'm not pushing the product, just giving him one more option to get this registered so he can drive it until he can rebuld or what ever. Now I will sit quietly in the corner and pop a cold one. My fingers are getting tired.

yes at this rate it does sound more like a valve seal problem than a ring leak, which is a very easy fix.... it'll take you a couple hours to a full day depending on ability, but it probably will be your fix... its very cheap to do, cheaper than head gaskets.... and yes i agree the lucas additives do work well, but one you start burning oil an additive wont close it enough to pass a smog inspection.... i'm suprised arizona has a cutoff earlier than cali on years.... everything 74 and below is smog exempt here

Okay well now onto replacing the valve guide seals...
Should I pop off the valvue covers, take a few pictures of the heads for you guys?
I also would like some instruction on replacing these, as i stated before i have not worked directly with the mechanics on a cylinder head before.
I know what vavles, valve springs, rockerarms and pushrods are, but thats about it.

on your 700R4 go to :www.transmissioncenter.com they have a great DVD on building them,worth every penny.