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well, new talley puts me above $4k in the 200 I6 turbo engine. was for wastegate, intercooler and a BOV/bypass valve. and I now have to get bronze valve guides machined ( $150 for guides and machining ) and 12 new valves ( $85 with shipping from Ford 6 parts )
That's more then I paid for my stroker kit and new aluminum heads for a Windsor, hope that 6 has a ton of power when it's done!!!!!
dyno program is saying 324 HP
You will not see another like this and I am sure when you pop the hood ,everyone will have not seen a car like yours with a engine like that.
In my opinion your this deep into it ,you might as well add the 3 to 500 bucks and have the aluminum polished and chrome the steel to really top it off and make it look like a 10,000 dollar motor!!!
Should be just as fast as the factory z-28 and gt mustangs and impala ss,just do not try to follow them thru any turns:LOL:
You went with forged pistons,if I remember right?Theres always a 150 hit of N2o to make up for any lack of performance and if you plumb it in just right you could make use of the cooling effect it has to lower the intake temp further increasing power,you just need to use more to get the same effect using it in that manner.I can see 400 to 450 on the dyno with spray.I am sure that will be more than enuff for that car unless you go all prostreet with it.
I would also detail the engine bay real well to make it look even nicer and make sure to use all new hoses /hose clamps and put all the wires in new plastic cover thingys. 50 to 75 bucks in this area really pays off!!
he still has to upgrade the rearend and front brakes if hes planning on using all that HP.... the 7.5" rear is gonna die fast, the one i had in my mustang went about 2 months after i put my v-8.... btw matt, if you dont go the way of granada parts, a good brakes upgrade you can get that will fit your car if you use factory v-8 spindles and rearend... check out www.vintagevenom.com I ordered the kit the other day..... it'll be nice having 4 wheel disc with large rotors..... the most expensive part is the cobra rims
well guys, now this really worries me. when I did the dyno figures, I was using the old head values, with the old valve sizes from the old head, thought they were the same but, the old is 1's are 1.55/ 1.388 and the new head valves are 1.754/ 1.392. so now it says 397 HP @ 6,000, respectable 341 @ 5k, and a flat torque curve, right around 300 ft/ lb. I know my original 7 1/4" rear end will not handle it for long, maby it will hold out for a while, as the power comes in around 2k, but I'm not too shure. A Maverick or Granada 8" might be in order pretty soon.
I didn't get the forged pistions, I ended up getting Sealed power 2.3L HSC Tempo/ Taurus pistions, which are cast flat tops. final compression will yeild 8.81:1, perfect for 8 PSI, which will be intercooled also of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
I'm going to have the motor look like a million dollar engine. cast aluminum valve cover, black with polished fins. Daytona yellow for the engine, with clear coat. aluminum hi temp for the exhaust manifold/ up pipe. and all of the turbo piping will ither be daytona yellow, or black. will have black turbo couplers.
I'm going to spray the engine bay b4 I drop the motor in. flat black.
IMO a flat black engine bay is really boring, hides too much stuff, and makes it hard to see.... Why not go the same color as the exterior of the car? Black is just so.....black...and plain looking... Give it some style!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt167
depends on how much prep he's willing to put into the engine bay of course.... black works best if you only want to put a few hours into the bay.... if you're willing to put a few days then its ok....... its amazing how much grease and gunk builds up in those small little nooks over the years.....
just so you know matt... if you use a granada rear.... the wheel spacing is different than a 60s ford, also the brakes aren't that great....but also a 67 -68 8" is hard to come by.... granada parts are even getting tougher to come by.....
i can't wait to see the final product. I wonder though, 8 psi......once you spool it a couple times it's really hard to not turn the wick up. 10 psi....15psi....20psi....... boooommmmm! :LOL: If you can stop yourself from doing that your more man then i am. :LOL:
sounds like me with my nissan sentra.... i had a turbo on it and it was set at 10 when i got it.... got her up to 25 before i disentegrated the motor :LOL: :LOL:
Matt don't feel bad bro. I have $4k into just my block alone!! LOL Add heads, intake and carbs and kick it up another $4k!! And I still need slugs, rotating assy balanced and all the gaskets, bearings and hardware. But your building something very cool and unique. Like what the others have said you'll wow everyone when you lift the hood. I think it's a really cool engine and you deserve a big congrats for undertaking something out of the ordinary. Keep pluggin away and havin fun!!
G.
well, were counting past $4,200 now. the valve guides were shot, valves were really sloppy when I test fit them, b4 cutting the seats, so I sent the head out to have 12 bronze valve guides put in, price was quoted $150, and some of my valves were rough on the tops, which with the .495 lift cam, would wear on the new guides, so I bought 12 new valves, which was $85 for 12 thru Ford six/ Classic inlines parts. it's coming along tho, roller rockers arrived last week after a month of waiting ( they had to ship to Ford Six Parts from Australlia, so it took a while ). I put the water pump on today. tomorrow the block itself is getting color, it's going back in the car W/O head, be much easier as, there's 1 tranny bolt on the top of the motor that, could be removed/ installed from up top a lot easier, if the log/ head was not there.
Matt,one thing to remember is you won't find your combination on every corner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt167
I know. shure will be diffrent, that's why I started the project.Quote:
Originally Posted by erik erikson
Well guy's, Turbo engine just hit a brick wall. Machine shop just sent the head back as being cracked, and shure, yup it's cracked, they fluxed it, minor but it's there. called DVAP where I bought it, they don't have another, and because it's past 30 days, the only thing they will do is refund after the head is received by them. I'm looking around for another. Memory lane might have 1 but I don't really know. if I have to, I can wait for the new aluminum head to get released late april, and pay the $1,500 for it, and another $400 for the intake needed, that's another 50 HP gaurenteed ontop of 397 HP but I really don't have the funding for that
Takes big pockets to build trick engines....... You can either save up and get a good head, or settle for something less. I hope the actual engine is close to the virtual numbers you come up with....They are usually quite optimistic....
well, I ordered 1 from Memory Lane just now. $125+ shipping and I'm having them flux it b4 it's sent, to save me money as if it's cracked, they'll send me a new 1, after I send the old 1 back.
for right now, I'll put this head on, then if I get funding, I'll upgrade to the aluminum head, later on
oh yeah, now the motor has paint, but the colors gonna change. I tried laying white down to make the yellow lay out better, but stuff showed thru the white, so I sprayed silver, to get a uniform color, so it's silver now, teacher likes it, I don't
well, motor's black now, turbo piping will be yellow, hot side exhaust, silver. ready to go in car w/o head. no time for engine compt painting, but I'll pull the engine out when I repaint the car, and do it all white.
Matt sounds good and your getting there. Bummer on the bad head. I'm sure even that new aluminum might/will have some issues as most of the new heads out there. FWIW a friend of my sons has a bunch of 6cly parts and I think a few extra heads. I see your in NY. How close to lower CT are ya? If he has anything good I'll let you know. They are free. We are rebuilding the 6 in his 66 stang this spring. I'll get the casting numbers and dates off them if yer interested.
G.
yeah, if he's got any heads D7 casting up or the best a EO casting head ( biggest valves/ ports would just need to create an EGR block off ), I'm not that far from CT.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFR428
pulled the car in ( almost hit a Honda, nice suprise, Falcon has no brakes, pedal goes to the floor ), tried to drop the engine in today, but some complications with allignment held me up, so ended up just pulling it back out. figure it out after spring break.
yeah it can be tough to get those studs to drop in the holes...... it just takes a little bit of prying and pushing and pulling...... you might want to take the tranny out and connect it, and then pull the hood and grill to make it easier to drop it all in at once....
na, that alligned up fine, engine was actully in, mated up, but... the shield that goes between the block and the bellhousing, dosn't seem to fit right anymore. 1 bolt hole, seems to be just a bit off so metal covers up just a bit of the bolt hole, prolly just going to clearence it with a dremel, it's the only way it fits, so it's gotta be right.
i've had to do that plenty of times, those things just seem to warp a little bit over the years, i've had them bad enough that i cut my own out of 3/32" aluminum sheet metal
I'll take a look at what he has and let ya know.
thanks. got to get this thing togther, time is getting tight, june 15th is my last day to have it in the shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFR428
I'll take a ride this week and see. It's just across town.