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today, I was porting my head, just finishing up, been coming along nicely until I cut through 1 exhaust runner, and noticed another was almost all the way thru, and with a little poking, it was thru. so I can ither have it welded or buy a diffrent head, so I called around and found a place that might have 1. I asked for a '78 Head which would be better flowing, and have hardened seats arleady, so I wouldn't need that done to the head, like I would this 1.
Well like they say " POOP" happens:eek: :eek:
I did that to a hemi once but that was when you could buy them for a few bucks at any yard around.
teacher said I could possibly epoxy up the goof's, but for me, it's too chancey, being it's going to be a turbo motor, and if some epoxy lets loose and blows into the turbo, it will destroy the turbo. welding is the only viable option, and we can't weld cast iron, I'd have to send it out.
Cast iron is easy to weld, if you have access to an arc welder you can do it, they sell special rods at the welding shop, just put the head in the oven on broil for a couple of hours, to preheat it, get it nice and hot,well over 500 if possible, then hit it with the rod, do your welding, then put it back in the oven, and slowly let it cool, or you can put it in a container with oil to let it slowly cool, the main key is in your preheat and postheat, and hey if you mess it up you did not screw up a good part, your already in the hole, so at least you get some practice
If your worried about how to tell when the head is hot enough the welding supply place should sell heat sticks. they melt when you touch them to surface at the temp. you buy it for.
sounds good. if I end up buying a later head, I'll do that and see what I can do at home, we don't have an oven in the shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotroddaddy
Good thought Charlie, i completely forgot about those
We did it at the race car shop with a regular house oven, the misses might get a little mad though, i know mine would, thats why i have an old one in the garage
Im guessing you need a head for the chevy right, if not i have a couple of ford six heads your welcome to
yep, just asked my mom, got a big fat NO. my grandfather has an old electric oven he pulled out of an old trailer that I might be able to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotroddaddy
no actully, it was my 200 Ford's head that I screwed up.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotroddaddy
Electric oven is much better it has a more even heat. Works better when baking too.
Let me dig through my stuff, i should have a 200 head still, unfortanatly i just gave my falcon and all its parts away two weeks ago, but if i have one its yours if you want to pay shipping
cool, let me know.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotroddaddy
you do not have to get it that hot use 99 nickel weld mold rod 700or702 look here www.weldmold.com i warm it up with a torch 400 F or so use a heat stick and weld bit and peen let it cool slow i have fixed many blocks with this rod it has work very good for me
Pat
just a question about the 700 or 702 rod. How does it machine?? Is it like the iron?? Can you drill and tap in the repaired area ??
works good i have drill tap and bore tru it and mill it .i use it to fix decks on blocks. if you heat it up there is no hard spot pass the heat zoneQuote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
If you heat it up with a torch , dont you run the risk of getting uneven temps throughout and warping the head?
you are not welding all over the head ? you do not need to get the head that hot 400 is not that hot . i may not even heat the head .PEEN PEEN . with the 700or702 rod. the more heat you put in the head the hotter you need to get the head if you welded it with iron filler or a spray welder or tig you would have to get it hot to very hot and then what you said would apply and then all bad thing could happen i weld alum head and heat them with a torch it works but if you want to buy me a oven i would take one:)Quote:
Originally Posted by hotroddaddy
Anybody thought of using sand ? when we wanted big pieces of cast iron to cool down slow, we put them into a box of heated sand, then wrapped the whole lot in heat insulation. the whole lot cooled down to room temp over a matter of days.
i wrap my welding coat and cover with heavy towels .the 99 nickel rod just dose not need the heat. i like just to put some heat to get the cold out and moister but not much moreQuote:
Originally Posted by southerner
Sorry all my heads are gone, and yes sand works good to
hey matt i got a whole 66 200 thats 100% complete head and all..... has a few bummed rods and bearings in it but nothing that would affect the head...... have you thought of maybe using a 250 head? has better flow and an intake manifold that comes off.... the slightly larger chambers would allow you to boost a little more as well
only OZ 250 2V heads have removable intakes, which is the Australlian part. the Factory US 250 cyl heads are the same casting as 200 cyl heads.Quote:
Originally Posted by thesals
So what are you saying ? We have plenty of the the old 250 falcon heads here, they must be worth a dime a dozen. Johnboy would probably know more on the subject.
well, I found DVAP has a '78 head for $150+ shipping which is $50. cost to have hardened seats put in my stock head, $325, so I'm gonna buy the $150 '78 head that is better flowing with hardened seats, also has a little larger valves than the '67 head.
the 250 2v heads are plentiful in the land of OZ, but there are only a few importers getting them into the US, so they are very expensive, $800-1k each depending on condition. there is a company called classicinlines that has them imported and sells them for $900, problem is that the waiting list is so long, it takes 6 months to get 1 after you order and because it's so backed up, ordering is shut down, and may never restart because the owner also had an alloy head made using the oz 250 2v as a base designe, it will release in a couple months for $1,500Quote:
Originally Posted by southerner
i shoulda taken the few that i've seen in the junkyard then.... i've seen 3 or 4 of them with the removable intakes.... i thought that was just the difference between the 200 and the 250.... guess not
matt if you port your new head take the old one cut if up in a band saw i did this to junk heads so i knew how much i had and where not to go nuts and if you cut thru the port in to the ex or intake you can run liners in the port if you did not get in the water i have put the liners in the 355cnc dart heads
the newer head is a compleatley diffrent casting ( bigger ports ). I'm just going to do a little bowl work under the valves, and call it good.Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy