200 rebuild

Ok, now that I', pulling the engine apart, I need to start thinking about parts.

Here's what I have in mind

the Ross Racing Forged Pistions, made with 10cc dish

ARC-268/274 (110*) Hydraulic Dual Pattern Camshaft

New lifters

Chrome Moly Push Rods (170/200ci)

Clevite 77 bearings ( Main, Rod and Cam bearings )

Stock 1967 Cylinder head 52cc combustion chamber

.050 compressed thickness composit head gasket

Comp will be somewhere in the 8.2-8.5:1 range

This will be turbocharged & intercooled at 6-15 PSI. Turbo will come in around 2k RPM

Fuel injected Via throttle Body.

is this going to work good?

matt let us know how that little sucker works once you get it going, i might apply the same idea to a chev 6 cyl in a light alterd t bucket for racing.

I'll keep ya updated. I think it should be running sometime around febuary at the latest. I'm gonna take my time on it.

Also, I'm going to buy a dual roller timing chain. a little expensive at $100 but I'd rather have the added strength. also allows advance or retard 4* or 6* or str8 up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt167

Ok, now that I', pulling the engine apart, I need to start thinking about parts.

Here's what I have in mind

the Ross Racing Forged Pistions, made with 10cc dish

ARC-268/274 (110*) Hydraulic Dual Pattern Camshaft

New lifters

Chrome Moly Push Rods (170/200ci)

Clevite 77 bearings ( Main, Rod and Cam bearings )

Stock 1967 Cylinder head 52cc combustion chamber

.050 compressed thickness composit head gasket

Comp will be somewhere in the 8.2-8.5:1 range

This will be turbocharged & intercooled at 6-15 PSI. Turbo will come in around 2k RPM

Fuel injected Via throttle Body.

is this going to work good?

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15 psi. of boost??
I really hope you have a strong bottom end.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by erik erikson

15 psi. of boost??
I really hope you have a strong bottom end.

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7 bolt mains, these engines can take upwards of 20 PSI.

only gonna run 6- 8 on a day to day basis, gonna tweak the 15 PSI on race day, via, a boost controller

[QUOTE=Matt167]7 bolt mains, these engines can take upwards of 20 PSI.

only gonna run 6- 8 on a day to day basis, gonna tweak the 15 PSI on race day, via, a boost controller[/QUOTE They won't live long if you are running the stock rods and crank at 15 psi.

many people do it. like I said, only gonna crank it to 15 psi when I race. the 200-250's are comfterble between 6-12 PSI, but most people who run them TC'd crank to 15 psi when they need to, as they will take it. 1 200 powered drag mustang first ran in 1981, used a T 60 Turbo, draw thru, a 600 CFM holley, cranked up to about 30 PSI on race gas and went 9.85, engine was producing 450 HP, that motor is still in 1 peice, and other than the turbo and some minor machine work, it was a stock engine, other than a diffrent casting head, eventully he did upgrade to aluminum rods, but just to make the car faster, original rods were fine when he pulled them. check out www.fordsix.com/forums, you'll see what I mean.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt167

many people do it. like I said, only gonna crank it to 15 psi when I race. the 200-250's are comfterble between 6-12 PSI, but most people who run them TC'd crank to 15 psi when they need to, as they will take it. 1 200 powered drag mustang first ran in 1981, used a T 60 Turbo, draw thru, a 600 CFM holley, cranked up to about 30 PSI on race gas and went 9.85, engine was producing 450 HP, that motor is still in 1 peice, and other than the turbo and some minor machine work, it was a stock engine, other than a diffrent casting head, eventully he did upgrade to aluminum rods, but just to make the car faster, original rods were fine when he pulled them. check out www.fordsix.com/forums, you'll see what I mean.

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It's great that you are building something that not very many people build.
I would not believe everything you read.
The 450 hp engine that went 9.85 just does not add up.
To run down that far into the 9's you will need more hp than this.

hey matt dont you mean 7 main caps... not 7 bolt mains.... that would be a lott main bolts... and where would that odd number one go?right thru the center?? :LOL:

with your rods you got make sure not to skip checking if they're straight and shot peen em and everything..... and dont just straighten them if they are a little bent.... some guys do that... which is ok if you're running just a stock get around motor....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by erik erikson

It's great that you are building something that not very many people build.
I would not believe everything you read.
The 450 hp engine that went 9.85 just does not add up.
To run down that far into the 9's you will need more hp than this.

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ok, how about running in the low 12's, getting 350 hp out of a motor, stock rods and crank, only Forged pistions. running 12 PSI. it is O ringed, and runs a copper head gasket, that is Will and Kelly's '63 Falcon, Turbocharged 250, it is a drag car, look up Will and Kelly's Falcon in google, you will find a Mustangs and Ford article on Kelly and the car. The car that went 9.85 was a gutted out car, for drag purposes only, probably a lot lighter than a '66 Mustang normally is. here are the pics of the 9.85 drag car

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...g/waterbox.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ang/engine.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ng/engine2.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thesals

hey matt dont you mean 7 main caps... not 7 bolt mains.... that would be a lott main bolts... and where would that odd number one go?right thru the center?? :LOL:

with your rods you got make sure not to skip checking if they're straight and shot peen em and everything..... and dont just straighten them if they are a little bent.... some guys do that... which is ok if you're running just a stock get around motor....

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yes there are 7 main caps. I'll check the rods, we have the tooling for that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt167

ok, how about running in the low 12's, getting 350 hp out of a motor, stock rods and crank, only Forged pistions. running 12 PSI. it is O ringed, and runs a copper head gasket, that is Will and Kelly's '63 Falcon, Turbocharged 250, it is a drag car, look up Will and Kelly's Falcon in google, you will find a Mustangs and Ford article on Kelly and the car. The car that went 9.85 was a gutted out car, for drag purposes only, probably a lot lighter than a '66 Mustang normally is. here are the pics of the 9.85 drag car

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...g/waterbox.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ang/engine.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ng/engine2.jpg

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The 350 hp and stock rods,crank with forged pistons a long with the 12 lbs. of boost seems a lot more do-able.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by erik erikson

The 350 hp and stock rods,crank with forged pistons a long with the 12 lbs. of boost seems a lot more do-able.

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I did find out, the '66 mustang did bend the stock rods due to over boost. he ran 8psi at the starting line, but by the time he got to the end of the 1/4 he was at 15 PSI because his V1 turbo had too big of an exhaust housing with too small of a wastegate.

make sure those clevite bearings are up for the added HP...
I recently read they have some better P-series bearings from Clevite, wich cope with the stress a little better than the regular ones...haven't got a clue on the pricing though...

Maybe a girdle for the bottom-end will help keeping things together?

just a thought...
(yeah, okay, so I think a lot...not everything makes sense...so if it's a lot, there's bound to be one or two good and usable thoughts there, wouldn't you agree?) :LOL:

the P series bearings are not made for the 144-250 small Ford 6's, I don't think a girdle is made for the 144-250's, having 1 custom done would cost $$$ I think. I'll just stick to a low comp/ boost and see how it goes. these engines have been proven that they take turbocharging well, I'm not worried about dropping the bottom end out of it with a low comp/ boost, figure 8 PSI of boost on 8.2:1 comp ratio.

engines all apart except the cam now. it was actully rebuilt fairly recent, looking at all the parts, probably some time in the 1980's as a shim head gasket was used ( discontinued in the early 90's ). all con rods were stamped, and the crank looks great, no wear apparent. did have a reason for the rebuild tho, somthing got loose and smacked off part of the oil pump ( non essential, finger thing cast into the pump, always had good preassure and came up quick ). can see where the crank hit it, but how and why is unknown. head was also rebuilt as there were 1.02 shims under the valve springs but the umbrella seals were cracked or missing, causing oil leakage and burning.

which 1 of these cams would you choose? 8.3:1 comp. this is Schnider Racing cams listings for the 144-200. is Schnider any good?

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
13721
248-56H
248
256
194
204
.400”
.420”
110
.000”
.000”
43795

13720
256H
256
256
204
204
.420”
.420”
112
.000”
.000”
43795

13722
262-82H
262
282
210
220
.435”
.450”
110
.000”
.000”
43795

13724
280-90H
280
290
220
230
.465”
.465”
110
.000”
.000”
43795

13726
300H
300
300
240
240
.480”
.480”
108
.000”
.000”
43795

schnider used to be good... i'm not sure so much anymore.... i bought a custom grind cam for my race engine in my mustang..... idled like a much larger cam then it should have.... i called them and they told me i had a big cam grind but i told them not that big... so i took it in and they checked it and not one lobe was the same... they made me another one and same problem.... 3rd time they finally got it right.... but on a ford... you know its not an easy process to pull the cam like it is on a chevy....now i'm doing a total rebuild and using a crower... i decided on crower because they're also local to san diego, i know the owners now because they came into my college a few times, and they're going to make me a full forged 347 bottom end from forged steel (crank, rods, -5 flattop pistons) plus a balancer and flywheel, cam, and lifters.... and its going to cost less than an eagle bottom end kit....plus they're gonna throw in a set of 5 point racing harnesses for free.... and dyno/tune my car once i get it together.... i might be getting offered a sponsership too :D