todays "HOW TO"

:D deals with a crosspipe for duals ...where does it go? :confused: ?

put on your true dual exhaust(complete with DynoMax Bullets)....then after youve grooved on the new sound and let it completely cool...get a rattlecan of any spray paint...crawl under the car...paint a big ole stripe from just behind the collector to about midway down on the inside of your brand new pipes...now start it up and get em hot...thru several diff rpms...get em real hot....even go drive it around and do some fire burnouts in front of the neighbors house...after it cools, take a look....the spot, the exact spot where the paint turns a different shade is where you'll want the cross pipe :3dSMILE:

Thanks Bryan. A friend of mine was a Mopar freak, racing 383's and 440's and he told me the Chrysler engineers used the same paint stripe method to determine collector length. Right at the color change, like you said, would be the terminal of the collector. They would build the collector waaaayyy too long and cut it off at the discoloration.

:D todays big tip has to do with tire pressure

as a general rule...on a hot greasy track..add air

Interesting that your H-pipe ended up as far back as it did.
The one on my 32 roadster ended up about the same place.

The H-pipe was added for sound attenuation - cuts down the low frequency rumble - and not for performance.
Placement was strictly a convenience deal.

I'll add a tip Bryan.

The first rule of drag racing is "Don't piss off the tech inspector" :LOL:

yes it work just were you can put it. rigth behind the trans crossover :D may be i could do a to days how to :HMMM:

and now for the soon to be famous..TIP O DA DAY :whacked:

NITROUS BASICS

there are four variables in tuning nitrous....timing....bottle pressure....fuel pressure...jets

general rules

timing...retard 3 deg for every 100 shot...more tricks here for power

bottle pressure....always use the same pressure...lower bottle pressure will change the tune up...you will not finish the race with the same pressure as you had when you left the line...i always used 1000...we would go to the staging lanes with 1250 cause by the time the wannabe racers broke in front of you and you sit there for an hour you'll lose pressure...if you dont then purge it down...it looks cool...and dont top off bottles...much more on bottles to come i'm sure...there's power there biggrin.gif

fuel pressure...do not ever assume the regulator works...always flow the fuel pressure...with everything else the same it should be your key to tuning...dont grab hunks of fuel pressure at a time...sneek up on it...fp is the key way to adjust a/f ratio

jets...put in the BIGGEST shot you can...nothing looks stupider than a fatass trackrat droppin jets in the heat of the moment...you can always take power away other ways safely...i always used NX and the high pressure tune...always used the jets they spec'd for the power range i wanted

That's a real good tip on the H pipe, I will keep it in mind since I have to do both of my trucks soon and would like to put a H pipe on it.
Any other power tips besides nitrous?

yea...blown alky :3dSMILE:

todays subject is Battery Cables

make your own from 2ga welding cable...any AutoZone will have the ends...cut the cable to length and sweat the ends on...2ga welding cable carries 300 amps for 100ft...

for those of you with your batt in the trunk...weld a bolt(head to frame) for an extra ground both close to the batt and on the inner frame rail close to the starter...ground the batt & the engine to these(batt/elec fuel pump in rear...engine & ignition up front)...run both positive AND negative cables to the front...use the ground bolt on the front of the car to ground your ignition box...i always had a positive lug close to the front negative to use to power the fuse block or fused switch box...your ignition will perform much better if you do this...total cost, less than 50 bucks:)

awrighty...back for more free tips of da day :D

has to do with staging a car with a spool

a spool in the rear locks both axles together...once youve done your burnout...roll back far enough to completely do all adjustments to the steering BEFORE you roll the last couple of feet...sawing on the wheel as you roll into the beams only preloads one or the other rear tire...so you launch crooked...the last couple of feet should be rolled without ANY input to the steering...be lined up straight with all corrections made and then roll in....makes for a happy car under power :)

Bryan,

Thanks for the tips! They are excellent and many are for items we don't often think of. Please keep them coming.

Pat

Yeah great tips! I don't really get the starting line one though... I think I am missing a point or something I don't know... The welding cable one is great!

I'll kick in a paper I wrote on roll bars.....

This topic will cover a 5-point roll bar as opposed to a roll cage. Most fellows these days will go ahead and build a cage while they have the welder and their tools fired up, but we'll cover the bar for those of you who don't plan on going 9's (or quicker). With an otherwise unaltered floor and firewall, a 5-point bar will take you to 10 flat. A "point" refers tp a connection point of the end of a bar at the car floor or frame. A 5-point roll bar will have connections as follows: The main hoop, or B-bar, will connect to the sill/floor at two points just behind the driver, the two rear braces will make two more connections somewhere in the trunk area and the fifth point will be in the area of the driver's left foot, made by the driver's "side bar". Most of the time, racers will go ahead and install a sixth point "side bar" on the passenger side of the car, helping to stiffen the car up. One note of interest here, mimimum O.D. of the tubing for a bar is 1 3/4", for a cage it's 1 5/8", so it may be cheaper to buy all 1 5/8" tubing and build the cage from the start. Anyway, I'll start off with the rule for the bar:

2005 NHRA Rulebook, General Regulations
4:10 ROLL BARS
All roll bars must be within 6" of the rear, or side, of the driver's head, extend in height at least 3" above the driver's helmet with driver in normal driving position and be at least as wide as the driver's shoulders or within 1" of the driver's door. Roll bar must be adequately supported or cross-braced to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and intersect the roll bar at a point not more than 5" from the top of the roll bar. Crossbar and rear braces must be welded to main hoop. Side-bar must be included on driver's side and must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. Swing-out sidebar permitted. All roll bars must have in their construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulder harness attachment point. Cross bar must be installed no more than 4" below, and not above, the driver's shoulders or to the side bar. All vehicles with OEM frame must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame; installation of frame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame; therefore it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x 0.125-inch (1/8") steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch (0.375") diameter bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker sill area with 0.125-inch (1/8") reinforcing plates, with plates welded completely. All 4130 chromoly tube welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done by approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process. Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited. See illustration. Roll bar must be padded anywhere drivers helmet may contact it while in driving position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch compression or meet S.F.I. Spec 45.1. All cars running 180-mph or faster, S.F.I. Spec 45.1 mandatory.

Now, let's examine the rule:

A. "All roll bars must be within 6" of the rear, or side, of the driver's head, extend in height at least 3" above the driver's helmet with driver in normal driving position and be at least as wide as the driver's shoulders or within 1" of the driver's door."
Some fellows will build their roll bar only to protect the driver if their car is a purpose-built race car that will never have a passenger (unlike a car which will also be run on the street), so they build the bar to look sort of like a pyramid, except rounded on the top where it protects the driver's head. They will run the main hoop (B bar) up from the driver's side sill to the roof, make a half-circle around their helmet and then take the bar down to the sill at the other door instead of running it to the other side of the roof of the car and then down. This arrangement makes no sense to me. It's just that much more work when you decide to go faster and make a cage out of it. The part of the rule that says "at least as wide as the driver's shoulders or within 1" of the drivers door" is meant for the "pyramid" guys. The part about being within 6 inches of the rear of the driver's head is to prevent a builder from installing the bar back at the rear window or up by the windshield with no other protective bars in between. You might have to picture the roof being caved in. If the bar is near the driver's head, he will be protected. By the way, let's get the terminology in order. The main hoop is normally referred to as the "B" bar, as that's where the B pillar is on the car. The windshield frame is the "A" pillar or A bar and the rear window frame is the "C" pillar.

B."Roll bar must be adequately supported or cross-braced to prevent forward or lateral collapse."
Forward or rearward "lozenging" or collapse is prevented by the two diagonal bars (rear braces) which connect to the top of the B bar and run down through the package tray and into the trunk area in the rear, or into the floor of the bed if we're talking pickup truck, forming a triangular support to the B bar when the car/truck is viewed from the side. Lateral collapse is prevented by the cross bar which runs from the left (or driver's side) of the B bar to the right (or passenger's side) of the B bar. This cross bar is installed at the driver's shoulder height with the driver seated in his/her driving position.

C. " Rear braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and intersect the roll bar at a point not more than 5" from the top of the roll bar."
"Same diameter" means minimum 1 3/4" (1.750")
"Same wall thickness means 0.118" for mild steel and 0.083" for chromoly
"Not more than 5"....means do not move the rear braces over to the side of the car to the vertical part of the B bar any further down than 5" as measured from the top of the B bar. The closer to the top of the B bar these rear braces are, the better they can prevent the B bar from forward or rearward collapse (lozenging).

D."Crossbar and rear braces must be welded to main hoop."
The main hoop is normally called the B bar in tech lingo.

E. "Side-bar must be included on driver's side and must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. Swing-out sidebar permitted."
This bar welds at the intersection of the B bar/cross bar at the driver's left shoulder and runs downhill diagonally to a point near the driver's left foot. It's purpose is to keep the driver in the car in the event he/she is out of the belts. (Yep, it happens).
If you're planning a swing-out side bar, get yourself a NHRA Rulebook. There are several ways to do it, all of them too lengthy to address here.

CONTINUED ON FOLLOWING POST........

F. " All roll bars must have in their construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulder harness attachment point. Cross bar must be installed no more than 4" below, and not above, the driver's shoulders or to the side bar."
CAUTION: DO NOT INSTALL THIS BAR UNTIL THE DRIVER IS SEATED IN THE CAR IN HIS/HER NORMAL DRIVING POSITION IN THE CAR..... AND...... DO NOT INSTALL THE SIDE BAR UNTIL THIS CROSS BAR IS IN PLACE. Maximum protection for the driver will be afforded by installing the cross bar with the top of the bar EVEN with the top of the driver's shoulders. That's why you don't want to weld this bar in until you have the driver in position. Now, with the cross bar in position, you can weld the driver's side bar in at the intersection of the B bar/cross bar and be assured the geometric line of pull will be proper on the shoulder belts and the side bar will be high enough to retain the driver in the car in the event of upset, passing the driver midway between the shoulder and the elbow on its way to the floor close to the driver's left foot as dictated in "E" above.

G. " All vehicles with OEM frame must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame; installation of frame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame; therefore it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the frame."
For instance, a Chevelle has a full frame, a Camaro is a unibody. If you put subframe connectors on a Camaro, it's still a unibody.

H. "Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x 0.125-inch (1/8") steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch (0.375") diameter bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop (B bar) to rocker sill area with 0.125-inch (1/8") reinforcing plates, with plates welded completely."
You can "sandwich" the floor of the car with these "plate pairs" bolted together, one on top of the floor and one underneath for each connection point and weld the bars to the top plates or you can use only one plate at each connection point and weld the plate to the floor or sill of the car, then weld your bar to the plate. This increases the square inch area of the installation and reduces loading on the floor so the bars will not punch through the floor sheet metal like they would if you just welded the bar straight to the floor or sill. When installing the B bar, you'll want to install it on each side as close to the door as possible, so that the driver will be "inside the box". This will probably require moving the B bar tubing up onto the sill of the car, at least partially. Bend up your 6 x 6 plate to weld it in, so that you are welding it partly to the sill and partly to the floor. DO NOT REDUCE THE SIZE OF THE PLATE TO LESS THAN 6 X 6. You may have to grind the end of the B bars to make them conform to the curve of the plate at the sill and that's o.k., you may have to heat and bend the plate to make it conform to the sill/floor and that's o.k. too, just do what you have to do to make it work according to the rules and you'll never have a problem at tech. Maybe you'll end up with part of the bar welded to the plate at the sill area and part of it welded to the plate at the floor, again, whatever it takes. Grind the end of the bar to make it work. I've trailered more than one car for reducing the plate size. Then, after I've asked them to fix it and they show up again with the same lame installation, I send 'em home.

I. " All 4130 chromoly tube welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done by approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process. Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited."
If you're not an expert welder, then for heaven's sake, hire a professional. It'll be the cheapest wages you'll ever pay for a nice roll bar installation. Nothing is cheezier than bird-crap welding and again, I've trailered more than one car for crappy welding. And don't even THINK about grinding any welds on the car. Hire a pro. If you fit up all the bars in the car and tack them in, the pro welder won't be there long doing a proper job. If you have fit the bars properly, there won't be much room at the roof to weld completely around the B bar/rear brace connections, so you may as well plan on gusseting these. Use 1/8" flat plate of a triangular design with the long (unwelded) side of the triangle measuring at least 4". Use two gussets at each rear brace (four gussets in total) and you'll be bulletproof. By the way, NHRA now allows these rear braces to be bent (one bend only) to a maximum of (I believe) 30 degrees so that you guys with street/strip cars can retain the back seat in the car for double dates and such. Most guys will run the rear brace bars from the B bar intersection back at a shallow angle to the roofline and then make a turn down and through holes in the package tray to the trunk floor, where the bars are terminated on 6 x 6 plates which are welded to the trunk floor. Now, you know what's going to happen don't you? Some turds from down off the farm are going to hear about this new lax interpretation of the rule from a buddy who didn't tell them about the "one-bend-only" part of the rule and they'll run the rear braces back from the B bar right up against the roof and make a 90 degree turn through the package tray and then another turn to terminate the bars on their plates somewhere on the trunk floor. I can see it coming. Multiple bends in the bars will allow them to kink-up and will render them incapable of preventing the B bar from "lozenging" forward or backward. And the problem will be that there is little or no tech inspection at most drag strips, so they'll get away with it until they get to Firebird and get trailered. Then they'll raise a stink with the front office about how they passed tech at Podunk Dragway and I'll have to write a report supporting my decision. I can just see it coming. In my humble opinion, NHRA should have left the rule as it has been for 50 years. You either have a race car or you have a street car, MAKE A DECISION!!!!!!

J. "Roll bar must be padded anywhere drivers helmet may contact it while in driving position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch compression or meet S.F.I. Spec 45.1. All cars running 180-mph or faster, S.F.I. Spec 45.1 mandatory."
Whether you think so or not, seat and shoulder belts stretch when you're flippin' and rollin', so make sure you've covered all your bases here with every possible place your helmet could make contact with the bars.

today...lets talk weight :confused:

excellent article on roll bars/cages mr insptrman, many people will appreciate that one :cool:

as a general rule most folks will tell you each 100rd pds is a tenth...:rolleyes: ...just like that pile of parts in your garage that jegs says will shave .3 off :HMMM: ...

it will save time cause it takes less torque to get the car movin...so put her on a diet...here's some easy ways(well, takes some work) to shave a few hunerd pds off your hotrod

1. every door car has big heavy support runners inside the door skins...they are held in place by spot welds on each end...you can find these welds easy by looking and then just drill em out...some cars may have an inside brace...it's good for a hun

2. best weight comes off the front...alum heads, water pump(elec preferably, more on that later), and removal of ALL un-necessary braces for body work

3. loose most of the grill supports

4. chunk most all the bumper supports and use only the shell

5. git rid of the interior and under the carpet you will find some real heavy-ass insulation...logged with beer and other stuff...CHUNK IT...reinstall the carpet if you want

6. alum radiator

now that'll get you started...there's lots of things you'll never need in a streetbomber or track car...LOSE EM :p

FOR THE REALLY GOOOD STUFF :D

the above is all dead weight which will save you and make your sleeper wake up....but the savvy track rats know this

1. lighten ANYTHING that spins....like the rotating assembly...the driveshaft(MW makes great chromoly ones, i never liked alum or matrix)

2. lite wheels

3. NO drum brakes..you gotta spin em ya know, takes power

4. change anything on the front of the motor to elec...like fan & water...underdrive the alt if you gotta have one...it'll take load off the motor

5. lighten the valvetrain with titanium and chromoly (not as expensive as it sounds)

6. lighten the ring gear by having it backcut.

7. gundrill the axles when you order them

hope this'll save you some honest time...anything that spins saves more time than anything dead...but they both work well

:3dSMILE:

sound good and have done the cheese holes on things to like bumper brackets aluminum floor and got my 66gto down to 2800 with me in it 210 for me and moved the big block chevy back 6 inch and work on the cowl this is were all the weight is on cars. not to bad for a all steel car with a glass hood gass wind shield and back glass full steel pro stock cage. the fast way to get weight off the front is bummper alum raid willwood brakes aluminum master clylinder glass hood and a donovan block.on my street gto i am going to make the front bummper out of aluminum and brackets and keep the steel hood . i like my hood .it dos not look like glass wash broad. some day i like to try to make a new hood from aluminum:whacked:

Quote:

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Originally posted by Bryan TTM
today...lets talk weight :confused:


FOR THE REALLY GOOOD STUFF :D

the above is all dead weight which will save you and make your sleeper wake up....but the savvy track rats know this

3. NO drum brakes..you gotta spin em ya know, takes power

4. underdrive the alt if you gotta have one...it'll take load off the motor

hope this'll save you some honest time...anything that spins saves more time than anything dead...but they both work well

:3dSMILE:

---

Regarding 3 & 4 above:

3. If you are using stock iron components, disk brakes are generally heavier than drums, they also cannot be backed of like drum brake shoes can so they will have some resistance. If you are going with aftermarket components disks are lighter. If you are running a stock eliminator car, or are on a budget, then drums might be a better choice. Ability to stop safely not withstanding.

4. You can also put a switch in the field wire of the alternator, with a flip of the switch it turns off completely and just free wheels as you make your pass. Then flip it back on on the return road to bring the battery back up as you drive to the pits and back up to staging. Make it part of your start up and shut down routine so you don't forget.

Pat

very good additions...i overlooked and just assumed most were using Wilwood or Lamb or etc...good save there Stu :)

OTAY...today lets talk about STUDS :cool:

IMO, ARP makes the best but there is a proper way to install them

first you'll want to chase the threads on your clean, newly got back from the 'chine shop block...then put a dab of oil on the first few threads that go into the block or head....next, hand screw it all the way down til it bottoms...and then, BACK IT OFF A HALF TURN...that way it'll clamp just right and NOT bust the block :eek:

yall have fun now, ya hear **)

lets talk brakes :cool:

most of us use Wilwood, but Lamb & Mark Williams also make good ones...the Lamb master does not have a residual valve which will preload the calipers to drag...its light and costs about the same

Wilwood makes very good brake calipers and rotors...make sure you get ones rated for the weight of your car...going light will only cause problems like fading brakes when you dont want them to fade

they have a break in procedure...to properly "bed" a set of Wilwood pads you will need to make some low speed stops...dont lean on em too much and let em cool between each bed...get to the track early and run it leisurely down the track and do two stops...bring it back to the pits and let em cool....do that twice and they should be good for a full blast

you can also bed the rear by jacking up the pumpkin and runnin and stoppin em...dont get em too hot so's they wont glaze...and dont let the car fall....oh, dont let mr techman see you either :D

how bout braided lines :eek:

they look cool...they work great...but man are they a pain in the butt to make :o ...pokin your fingers....frayin when you try to get the fitting on it and then bein too short to cut off :(

i started using PushLok everywhere...it dont hurt to assemble...its cheaper...works everbit as good...looks really cool...and comes in a variety of colors while still uses those cool an fittings we all love

just cut it with tin snips to length...put some spit on the end...and press em together...and the pain is gone :cool:



http://www.clubchopper.com/photopost...0motor-med.jpg

what happens if you twist on the 4-link bars :HMMM:

the bottom two locate the rear end square to the body....DONT FOOL WITH THOSE (most of the time)

the drivers upper sets the pinion angle and the pass upper adjusts for preload...preload may or may not be needed but is used to make the car drive straight...for instance, if its pulling without any input from the steering...one flat in(shorten the bar) will make the car veer left...out or lengthen the bar will push it right

what front end alignment goes straight the easiest

toe in 1/16.....10-12 deg negative castor

Quote:

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Originally posted by Bryan TTM
what front end alignment goes straight the easiest

toe in 1/16.....10-12 deg negative castor

---

Bryan, I think you mean POSITIVE caster.

uh..probly :HMMM: ;)

this is what i mean...if you stand at either side of the car by the front wheel and look down at the upper & lower ball joints...the top one's gotta be layed back(closer to the rear of car) from the bottom one

yep, positive.

how to piss off your wife :confused: :3dSMILE:

make sure she's had a hard day :o ...on the way home from the office(or anywhere, we just work together so its easy)....drive your big black smokin diesel...she'll be in her car of course and the first chance you get....when her window is down...inch up beside her open window with the big 4" tailpipe pointing at her....NAIL IT...:LOL: ...FILL HER CAR WITH BLACK SMOKE...:eek: ...make sure its caked in her hair & makeup:HMMM: ...be ready for no booboo that nite :rolleyes:

hey guys anyone have any info on s10 conversion

how to convert your limited edition RST by Foose into a total loss :CRY:

first, have too much on your plate and get really drunk the nite before :HMMM:

next get in your pristine show truck and head off for your day...with your head up your ass :eek:

next...taste that cigarette as the airbags cram it down your throat when you rear end a row of parked cars at 60 mph :(

I hope that wasn't you Bryan.

yes that was me...mistakes while behind the wheel are totally un-acceptable to me...i havent had a wreck or even scratched anything in 14yrs....i own a repossession company, i am now semi-retired but still log 60k per year in the city...GM airbags ROCK....FARMERS INS ROCKS...wrecks SUCK...thanks for the concern...this afternoon i have a different perspective on driving