Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Cam Bearing removal
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    460_fan's Avatar
    460_fan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Ketchikan
    Car Year, Make, Model: 86 F250 4X4
    Posts
    74

    Cam Bearing removal

     



    Is there an easy way to remove and install cam bearings in a ford big block? From Everything I have read, it takes a verry expensive special tool. What do most of you guys do to get new bearings in? Machine shops I assume can do it no problem, but I don't have a decent machine shop hear that has the know-how to do that sort of thing. Is there a cost effective way a do-it-yourselfer can get this done, or would I need to spend the $700 on the special tool?
    460_Fan

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    Cam bearings must be installed with the correct tool. It's not just a matter of getting the bearing in the bore, but also the correct bearing in the correct hole and getting the orientation correct on the oil holes.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  3. #3
    460_fan's Avatar
    460_fan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Ketchikan
    Car Year, Make, Model: 86 F250 4X4
    Posts
    74

    So, just suck it up and buy the right tool? Seems expensive for the guy that doesn't plan to do rebuilds on a regular basis.
    460_Fan

  4. #4
    viking's Avatar
    viking is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Branson area
    Car Year, Make, Model: 23 T, 53 FLH , 66 C-10 454, 03 CVPI
    Posts
    968
    Objects in the mirror are losing

  5. #5
    460_fan's Avatar
    460_fan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Ketchikan
    Car Year, Make, Model: 86 F250 4X4
    Posts
    74

    Thanks for that link, that is alot cheaper than the one Napa lists. Looks like it is the same thing.
    460_Fan

  6. #6
    460_fan's Avatar
    460_fan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Ketchikan
    Car Year, Make, Model: 86 F250 4X4
    Posts
    74

    Originally posted by viking
    Not to expensive, only $70.00


    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch

    Only problem, this is for chevy, I need one for Ford BBs
    460_Fan

  7. #7
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    "Is there a cost effective way a do-it-yourselfer can get this done"

    If I lived in Ketchican and didn't have a shop nearby that could do this for me, I'd go online and buy a 3' length of 3/4" o.d. allthread, several large diameter thick flat washers and a couple of nuts to match. I'd thread one of the nuts almost all the way onto one end, leaving a little "cup" to lay a bead of weld into to weld the nut to the allthread. I'd find a local with a lathe who could make a fixture for me to push the cam bearings out and in. It should be about 3/4" thick and just slightly smaller than the cam bearing bores in the block, so it will slide through the bores but still be large enough o.d. to bear on the bearings and push them into the bearing bores. Drill a 3/4" hole in the middle so it can slide back and forth on the 3/4" allthread. I'm not sure if the Ford bearings are different o.d.'s from the front to the rear of the block or not. You'll have to measure and see or maybe someone on here knows. If there is quite a lot of difference, you may have to make different sized pushers to different size bearings so that they will just barely clear the bore and push mainly on the full bearing sides without distorting them.

    Have a buddy hold a wrench on the nut that was welded onto the end of the shaft with a couple of large washers up against the back of the block while you turn the other nut inside the motor to wedge the old bearings out and the new ones in.

    I hope that at least some of this makes sense. I can visualize it clearly, I'm just not very good at explaining it.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  8. #8
    viking's Avatar
    viking is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Branson area
    Car Year, Make, Model: 23 T, 53 FLH , 66 C-10 454, 03 CVPI
    Posts
    968

    Sorry bout that, had chebys on the brain, heres a universal one, for $169.00


    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch
    Objects in the mirror are losing

  9. #9
    viking's Avatar
    viking is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Branson area
    Car Year, Make, Model: 23 T, 53 FLH , 66 C-10 454, 03 CVPI
    Posts
    968

    Sold for $64.00
    Objects in the mirror are losing

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink