Carbs!

[FMXhellraiser]

Ok well I am going to be getting a intake manifold and carb with the graduation money I get so need to find out which carb now. I know I went over this already but here are my other questions.
Edelbrock said to go with a 500cfm and same with Summit so that is the size I am going with. I thought I might as well get the Edelbrock Performer Series too because that is what Edelbrock suggested along with the Performer Series Intake. Anyways, what should I get. Manual choke or electric? My father said to get a manual but he doesn't know a lot so would like more oppinions. Also there are either EGR or non EGR, what is that? I know that last question may seem easy or dumb to you guys but I cannot think of what that is.

Thank you.

[FMXhellraiser]

What else should I order with the carb too? I remember someone saying to get some kind of kit for it. If it's a tuning kit then I see tuning parts for one but there are a million kits for tuning to get from Edelbrock and they are all seperate parts.
Thanks.

[stepside454]

hard to make a recomendation without knowing what is going on

[techinspector1]

A Performer intake with a Performer 500 will give you maximum street driveability...and shed a lot of cast iron weight from the motor. I've always been a fan of manual chokes because I want control. If I want the choke on a little to richen up the mixture to compensate for a bad load of gas to prevent pinging, I can do it with a manual. Manual choke carb is also cheaper.

Jets and metering rods are available separately as you mentioned, but I've relied on "strip kits" in the past. I don't know if you can still buy them, but the Carter strip kit parts will work in the Edelbrock AFB clone. Here's an example of a kit (for a Thermoquad though) on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW

EGR is exhaust gas recirculation. It is used to recycle burned exhaust gases back into the motor to reduce the heat of combustion to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions. If you don't have to pass emissions in you locality, get the non-egr setup.

[Matt167]

Your truck also had a manual choke origonally so, the choke pull should still be there, I think it's right next to the ign on the left of the wheel, about 2" from the ign, you probably have it there or theres a hole where a new 1 can go ( like 1 from summit ).

[FMXhellraiser]

Thanks guys. Yeah Matt I have a two barrel Holley with the manual choke on the right of my steering wheel. It used to not work and was rusted up bad but I would a little bit of lube barely at all on it and for some reason it helped right up. Tech, your right on what you said, good idea. No inspections needed here on my truck so I will go with Non EGR. I knew it had to do with the gasses after it went through it's cycle once but couldn't think of what EGR meant.
I still need to get a Vac gauge like Denny told me to get too. I don't have one and I am going to put all my digital gauges in that Pro60 (Mike) gave me once I find a Cyberdyne number and get the sensors for them, etc and I need to see if they have digital vac gauges.
Also do you think those little guages that tell Air/Fuel ratio are worth the money or a waste? Should I get one?

Thanks again guys!

[Matt167]

The air/ fuel gauges are only to tell you when you run lean and rich, there a waste really cause they won't correct the problem of a lean/ rich mixture, so it will just tell you the problem is there but, your always going to lean out at certin rpm ranges and richen up on others, you can correct jets and stuff all day but you'd still have a problem, might help it but it would still be there, I think the sensor goes in the exzaust but I'm not shure.

[FMXhellraiser]

Also, anyone got any good ideas on a good set of headers? I wan't a chrome looking finish if possible but if the chrome comes off quick then no unless I buy some of the high temp clear coat and pc them before I put them on. The headers on there now are aftermarket but are square when going into the block like an inch or two out of the block, etc and are pretty rusted almost all the way through. I plan to do all three of these things at once.

[Matt167]

The headders you have as described are block huggers, there for tight spaces and are available in stainless steel and polished stainless, through some company's through ebay, there are probably long tube headders designed to clear for that truck with a 302, that you can buy chromed. Prices will run right about 250.

[lt1s10]

fmx, you can do what ever you want to but, if i was you id leave that tuning kit at SUMMIT for the time being. the carb. should run ok for the the st. the way it is, and you can learn a little more about how it works before you go changing the springs and metering rods. you can adj. it every way but conway when you understand more about how it works. JMO

[FMXhellraiser]

Originally posted by Matt167
The air/ fuel gauges are only to tell you when you run lean and rich, there a waste really cause they won't correct the problem of a lean/ rich mixture, so it will just tell you the problem is there but, your always going to lean out at certin rpm ranges and richen up on others, you can correct jets and stuff all day but you'd still have a problem, might help it but it would still be there, I think the sensor goes in the exzaust but I'm not shure.

Yeah Matt that is what I figured is that it would go all over.
Thanks for the heads up, I will use my money on something else then.

[FMXhellraiser]

Not sure where I would get a drill that small though Denny and how I would do it and keep it level, etc.... I didn't know they were 500 or even around 500 cfm anyways. :?