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I have a 67 Chevy 2 that has a stock 350 in it. I want to race the car and drive it local. Just wandering if a 383 is worth building, if so could you guys tell me advantages and disadvantages with a 383.
My build thoughts are AFR heads, H Roller cam, 4000 stall, and 411 gears. Trying to get mid to low 11`s on pump gas.
I dont know anything about Stroker motors, Your thoughts would be great.
Billy
Thanks Streets, i need more info then that. Does anyone have any info on a 383 Stroker?;)
Thanks, thats better.:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:
350 or 383, Which one do you think would see the mid to low 11`s easiest? (On pump Gas)
Just how much are you willing to spend? I took a 62 Falcon into the 11's and I know how much that cost (ie: fiberglass fenders,dooors trunk, tube front axle, 390, built to the hilt 4spd, 9 inch,ladder bars, etc,etc.) Speed cost, How fast you want to go.Quote:
Originally posted by BillR70
350 or 383, Which one do you think would see the mid to low 11`s easiest? (On pump Gas)
Is that all? heheheheheheQuote:
Originally posted by Streets
My 499" did the ¼ in 4.9 @318 and it only cost 400G's... :p
You got that right Richard. Especially if he is driving in city traffic like I had do. I guess old age made me wiser. And the heat coming through the firewall and floor boards cause you had to delete all the insulation, etc. The story just goes on. It sounds nice to run 11s in a street car but it just isn't all that practical.
Me and my Bro just finished his 68 Mustang (351 Clevland) and we have a 11 sec pump gas street car. (et 11.52) CHI heads, 11.5 comp, solid cam, 3500 stall and 411 gears. (runs 10.60 on 125 nos). We will be starting on mine in the Spring (67 Chevy 2) and his ford wasnt that hard to get there! Just wandering about my Chevy 383 combination! Are there rpm issues, will the motor hold up, do they tend to overheat, oiling problems. etc........ If anyone could give me a run down on the Motor and what they know about AFR heads on a H roller 383 Stroker. Can the 383 CUT THE MUSTARD BABY?:D :D :D :D
Billy:) :mad: :) :mad: :) :mad:
Streets, ya' beat me to it this time. Bet it's cold walkin' down the road this time of year wit' that piece O' wire in his hand ......... HUH?:LOL: :LOL: :whacked:Quote:
Originally posted by Streets
QIII that wuz.... QII was cheaper to build and ezier to WRECK!! yeah, That wire happy numbskull IS STILL walkin' home too hehehehe
Oh ok, you guys have been a really BIG help.....Quote:
Originally posted by Streets
Muh 8 2nd pail wuz a bear on the street.. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrowl.. hehehe
But, yer right "Techie"!!!
Thanks. Billy
My panel truck was 600 H.P. and streetable. I drove it from Iowa to Ohio for the Street Rod Nats. (Two day trip each way) pullin' a pop up camper no less, just as an example. But .......... that's the advantage of big cubic inches. Making H.P. is not as much of a stretch compared to a small C.I.D. engine.
Maybe that's one of the reasons I have a constant ringing in my ears now dayz'. HUH?????:CRY: :CRY:
A 383 has 28 more inches than a 355. a 406 has 23 more inches that a 383.I was thinking of building a 383 for my 70 chevelle several years back and I ask a friend who owned one of the biggest speed shops in the state what he would do. This guy has personally built many Winston cup and bush grand national engines and anything and everything on the local level.His answer was one we've all heard many times before. ----THERE IS NO REPLACMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT.----I built a short rod 406 with the early chev stage one turbo heads.I can tell you one thing for sure, the more gear you take out of it the faster you will run.It has tons of torque but you wont be turning it too hard. I built another one for a friend . If I were going to be doing any serious racing it would deffinitly be a long rod motor . The short rod motor has the advantage to 4800RPM. Beyond that the long rod motor has the advantage and you can turn it harder. It seems you see a lot more articles on 383's than 406's . There might be something to that. This is just something else for you to consider.
I built a 383 two years ago. It's in a 71 C10. It has over 15k on it now. It's a street truck.
The main thing with Stroked motors is to find a good machine shop to do the work. You could do it yourself but I really didn't trust myself on a fisrt shot at doing one.
We had the block line bored, decked, and took all the moving parts to be balanced.
Gave the machinist around $1,100.00. We are using Dart Iron Eagle heads and we had the valve inserts replaced on the NEW heads because we had heard about leaks with the Dart heads.
Riverhouse and Craig, First off i would like to thank you for the serious answers to my questions. (Streets seems to have more fun clowning around on here) I never considered a 406. But it sounds like a good combo. My car will be street driven as well as track use, did you have any heating problems? How did you do in the 1/4 mile, and how much stall and gear did you use and where were you shifting the motor at?
Craig thanks for the advice, I will get a local Machine shop to do the work. (Pretty much exactley what you did with your block)
How did your 383 run?
Thank you VERY much for your answers and advice.
Billy:D
Billy, I started out with a 456 gear and ended up with a 355gear. You just do not need much gear with a short rod 406. Never had any heating problems. I used a 4 speed.both of the 406's I built I used 2 bolt main blocks. Many of the racers around here think the webbing is stronger than the 4 bolt in the 400.One thing I should have considered before when I was offering advice is Your chevy ll . Is it a stock frame ? Does it have frame rail connectors? Have you put a frame under it? How about suspension? Tires? Without all of this you will be quicker with a 327 or your 350. I recently sold a 63 chevy ll with stock suspension and a 355. My 406 would have been a joke in that car. One more word of advice and I'll shut up. I'd rather have a 13 second car that I can drive than an 11 second car that I can't.Good Luck and Merry Christmas!
River, I have frame rail connectors and will have a mini tub and single leaf springs. Shortened 9in rear with 12in slicks. Drag shocks also. I hope to get my car to run as good as my bros 68 Mustang. (11.53 on pump gas and 10.66 on 125 nos. WOW his car flys and he can drive it locally)
I hope i can come close to what he has acheived with his Ford.:confused: .......... If not i will have fun trying...:3dSMILE:
Thanks River. You have a Happy Holiday also.
Billy
The reason you see more articles on 383's than 406's are that it's hard to find 400 blocks while there are a lot of 350 blocks around.
I prefer the 406. I shift mine at about 6500RPM. It's pretty mild and pulls my 3540 pound Nova through the quarter with an 11.87 ET.
I'd go quicker if I put more converter in it and a bigger exhaust.
I'm leaving the line at 2000RPM. If I could leave at 3000-3500 I think it would really dance but I don't have the money to change converters. And I like the fact that it is fairly quiet so Mr Police Officer doesn't bother me and I don't have that constant drone in my ears.
If you want to build a bigger inch small block go to an aftermarket block because the work involved to clearance a stock block is more than it's worth. I haven't done one but friends that have think it's a real pain.
Jeep_406
1972 Nova, 406, 700R4, 4.11 12 bolt, street car
I just did a 383 in the SBC section and took pictures and show you how hard the clearance issues are...there are very little with the newer rods out. I used the Eagle SIR rods that come with 12 point ARP bolts, all I had to do was grind the back one corner of the pan rail for the crank to clear and grind the center 4 rods on a 45 degree angle to clear the camshaft. After that it was a simple build. The 383 is very easy, and now that its together it is in a 16' box truck that moves estates. If thats not hard work, nothing is.