engine & trans swap angle?????

stuffing a differant small block into my 1966 chevyII
ALSO MOUNTING A 400 TURBO
question ??? any ideas or info. on correct engine angle

I have to move the trans mount back 3 or 4 inches from the origanal location where the powerslide trans brace was.
trans legnth 3 to 4 inches shorter were the mount brace bolts to frame rails on a powerglide

NEW mounts being installed at frame rails plus the 400 trans mount is fatter housing also bigger around

this changes a temps to copy origanal mount loation at frames
from the powerglide locations

also want to gain a little extra clearance at the tailshaft housing {top of tail shaft to floor area I dont want to cut out or as some have done pound up the hump to get clearance

I have seen many differant engines at differant locations & angles
some seem real radical to me
effects drive shaft u-joint binding dont need that

I fiq.
put a angle finder on intake carb base
get as close to 3 to 5 degrees down in back

any help??????????????

Quote:

---

Originally posted by zbeast
stuffing a differant small block into my 1966 chevyII
ALSO MOUNTING A 400 TURBO
question ??? any ideas or info. on correct engine angle

I fiq.
put a angle finder on intake carb base
get as close to 3 to 5 degrees down in back

any help??????????????

---

I would favor 3 degrees rather than 5 degrees. It depends on your application tho. Is this a street car or a drag car? If it's a race car that changes things. I'm setting mine up level to 1 degree up in the back since the engine it setting low. (Crank shaft 10 to 11'' off the ground). If it's a street car 3 degrees down in the back should be close. It's most important to get the block level side to side and parallel to the chassis front to back.

Another thought. The "down bubble" of the transmission output shaft should equal the "up bubble" of the differential pinion shaft.

I agree, I recently tried to tell someone I was worried about my pinion angle and engine angle on my 67 project because I am mating a BBC to a T-56 tranny and a 9-inch Ford. They tried to tell me that none of it mattered...it would not vibrate...because the driveshaft would take up the "slack" and angle diffs. I said that the angle of the engine..down..should equal the angle of the rear end..up..but oOOHH no he said, dont worry, just put it all in and it will work....sure..whatever, As these PROS! said, match those angles, cut and weld a crossmember to work and you will be ahead of the game! There shouldn't be a problem moving the transmission mount ahead or back as long as you can work out those angles, so just...for lack of a better word 'Shim' the tranny mount till you get your desired angle up front and so on and so forth, be wary that some rearends like to 'twist' once disengaged from the driveshaft or torque bar..if equipped, so the effective angle at an uncoupled moment may be different than at an operation moment, this touches on what tech said about the operation condition of the diff as you drive, under load the pinion will try to climb the ring gear (also incurring evil, axle thrashing wheel hop) and also give a slight degree change...uh thats enough for me, have fun...swaps are what this hobby is all about.