'32 5w door latch help

I just keep running into more things to fix. Working on getting doors to close and have found both door latches absolutely worn out. I can repair some of this, but the door latching dog that hooks behind the striker plate when the door is latched is worn on every face that touches anything. It is riveted on the sliding plate inside the latch assy. Bob Drake doesn't have a replacement latch and I hate to go to a bear claw latch to fix this. Trying to keep original latch setup. Has anyone run into this and found a fix? Or does anyone else have a replacement latch that you know of?

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Originally Posted by deuce4papa

I just keep running into more things to fix. Working on getting doors to close and have found both door latches absolutely worn out. I can repair some of this, but the door latching dog that hooks behind the striker plate when the door is latched is worn on every face that touches anything. It is riveted on the sliding plate inside the latch assy. Bob Drake doesn't have a replacement latch and I hate to go to a bear claw latch to fix this. Trying to keep original latch setup. Has anyone run into this and found a fix? Or does anyone else have a replacement latch that you know of?

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For me, I would not consider trying to repair the original latches, as I would not feel comfortable (safe) with repaired originals. I would replace them with bear claws, but that's just me.

Ok. That is what I need to hear. Any other comments?

The bear claws are the only SAFE way to go. My '31 Brookville came with the OEM style '28 - '32(at least) latches that could open if the body flexe - and being a roadster, can assure you that it will. Since the doors have only about an inch of space, could only use the single rotor version, I opted to install safety pins as well.

You can see the bear claw and the safety pin here - also some of the reinforcing steel added to minimize the body flex as well. It also shows a door latch solenoid that currently isn't wired, but there for a future mod


http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...reinforce1.jpg

Is this the mini latch or slim line?

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Originally Posted by deuce4papa

Is this the mini latch or slim line?

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Single rotor - probably slim and mini are the same at approximately 1" wide. A 5W door should take a full size double rotor which is the best option. My doors were just too thin

This is how the doors finished out:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...nterior1-1.gif

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Originally Posted by deuce4papa

I just keep running into more things to fix.


Working on getting doors to close and have found both door latches absolutely worn out.


Trying to keep original latch setup. Has anyone run into this and found a fix?

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I hate bearclaws ... :mad:

I have a 32 3W ... ( the doors open backwards from most cars ) and I use the original door latches.

Door latches come up for sale fairly often on eBay. Guys like Dick Spadaro sometimes has them for sale. 32 sedan latches work in a 5W if I am not mistaken.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ter/latch4.jpg

A lot of the times ...
Parts from other Ford door latches will work. 1932 3W latches ( shown above ).

There is a company called Carolina Machine ( or something similar ) that sells a electric door pin latch. to be used as a SAFETY backup. Lots of 3W owners use them with their factory latches.
They would work in a 32 5W also.

Because a 32 5W doors open and close in the conventional manner ... there is NO way I would worry about the original style latches and go with the bearclaws.

BUT ... that's just me :D :D

http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...2360305982.jpg

http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...2316221551.jpg

Thanks Deuce. I will get in touch with Dick Spadaro. I have the driver's side in pretty good shape, but the passenger side is worn a little more. The rounded latching dog that hits the striker is worn much worse than driver's side, I think this piece is actually cast iron. It is rivited in place. You can see it in your pic. Thanks again.

Suicide Doors also sell an automatic safety latch.. $69/ pair IIRC

I think you could certainly build up the worn areas on your latch with either weld or brazing. Probably without disassembling the whole thing, but if need be it could be taken apart by drilling out the rivets. To me less work than replacing the whole works with bearclaw latches. On my five window I found it necessary to shim the catches on the jams out a little.

We had a pair of the Carolina Hinge co manual safety latches and wound up selling on Ebay. I did not like the way I was going to have to butcher up the doors and jambs to get them in. We purchased a slide bolt used in construction that has a satin nickel finish for a couple of bucks they work fine and look good to me. Just mounted to the door and drilled a hole in the jamb.

The ones I installed are from Carolina Custom in Clinton NC
Mine are electric ...

Their web site is

http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages/.../home_page.jsp

http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages/...anual_kits.jpg

http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages/...e/door_jam.jpg

They do not require cutting up the coupe :D
The photos above are from their web site ... not my 32 3W :)
I mounted the latch mechanism in the cowl of my coupe ... easily.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deuce

The ones I installed are from Carolina Custom in Clinton NC
Mine are electric ...

Their web site is

http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages/.../home_page.jsp

http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages/...anual_kits.jpg

http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages/...e/door_jam.jpg

They do not require cutting up the coupe :D
The photos above are from their web site ... not my 32 3W :)
I mounted the latch mechanism in the cowl of my coupe ... easily.

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For a safety latchd you might check out Rocky Hinge. They have a very similar latch that uses over-centering position to hold as opposed to the external springs. A very clean, simple design with less things to go wrong, and they also have an electric model. A small family business that cares, from my experience.

Also not fond of bearclaws. "all ford" in san jose, ca (408-378-1935) used to have a rebuild service, haven't had any done in some years. Might have a pair buried here in my garage. Send me a couple of pictures of what you've got, (smheller@comcast.net) i'll see what i can find.

All. Thanks for taking time to reply. Very helpful info.
Bill M. Yes. I think I could braze the latch paw. I have the plate with the paw riveted to it out so that I can weld the guide pin slot up and file back straight, so that won't be a problem.
Danny Thanks for the suggestion on the slide bolt. And I am very concerned with cutting up the doors.
Matt,Deuce and Roger I will look at each brand of latches. Sounds like the safety latch is needed for sure.
Thanks again.