Project Blue - 1932 3W Coupe Build

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Originally Posted by thenightbird

Guys,

Excellent comments and advice.....I like the suggestion of Mike52....The local hardware store will be seeing me soon!!

I will also measure up the motor mount later tonight to make sure it is properly positioned. Having the motor in the wrong place would certainly cause a problem.

Thanks again....I can see I am in the right place for help!

Stay tuned...you will see more pictures in the coming days.

Dan

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As you can see this is what I ended up for setback. It does look kinda interesting - except for the amount of work it took to make the body fit. I chose to go that way for a couple of reasons. The first being that the 'A' chassis is a simple design ladder type and everything would fit. The second was I didn't want any more of a heat affected zone by rewelding though the 'A' chassis is mostly 2x4x.125 rectangular tubing.

Oh yeah - Brookville sent the 3" recess rather then the 5" big block firewall that I ordered

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thenightbird

Guys,

Excellent comments and advice.....I like the suggestion of Mike52....The local hardware store will be seeing me soon!!

Dan

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If you've got a fastener supply nearby, go to them instead of the hardware store. It will be a lot cheaper.

Good stuff....I found a Fastenal near by so once I have my list together they will be getting a visit.


IC2 - When you have a chance could you measure the distance between the radiator mounting holes and the engine mounts? The prints I have of a 32 do not have the dim shown.

Thanks

Dan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thenightbird

IC2 - When you have a chance could you measure the distance between the radiator mounting holes and the engine mounts? The prints I have of a 32 do not have the dim shown.

Thanks

Dan

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Dan, I can do this but recall mine is a '31 chassis with a '32 radiator/grille shell and using a Ford motor (different kind of motor mounts) so am not sure that this will help you much. Let me know.

Here's an Australian web site that should give you some info:http://www.hot-rod.com.au/builder/te...sisford32.html

IC2....no need but thanks.

I finally had some time to do some measuring and I think the mounts are too far forward. I will know for sure on Sat when I try to tuck the engine and tranny in. I don't have the grill shell yet but I do have the radiator so I will know.

I will post pictures of the progress later in the weekend....hopefully with a happy face to signify that it all fit.

TCI chassis is a good choice. That's what I run on my Deuce.
Last year- I had an accident in my deuce & a few TCI parts were damaged.
Even though the chassis is about 10 years old- they provided all the parts needed. When I asked what I owed- they said no charge!
How's that for customer service!

Here's mine. RodBods steel body, black leather interior, Dennis Ricklefs flames.


http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL22/.../280704215.jpg


http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL22/.../333775355.jpg


http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL22/.../358645776.jpg

Nice looking ride Steve.....Hope mine comes out as nice!. What is your drive train?

I also hope that TCI responds as well to me regarding some missing and damaged items.

Ahhh - Anutter TCI with the mount in the wrong spot
Anutter reason I stopped usin them 6 years ago.
Too many things not right.
Has used another MFG since,23 of them, without 1 problem.

DA34GUY,
Which vendor are you using? I have a friend who might be starting a build and I would like to save him the hassle
Dan

Dan-
Using Classic Streetrod MFG. in Ontario Calif.
Osmin and Hugo worked for Sal @ TCI for years and started their own thing about 6 years ago.
TCI couldn't put a pimple on their product,quality, delivery time and price.
Usually get my chassis's in 10 days to 2 weeks.

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Originally Posted by thenightbird

Nice looking ride Steve.....Hope mine comes out as nice!. What is your drive train?

I also hope that TCI responds as well to me regarding some missing and damaged items.

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ZZ430 motor (#416), BTO 700R4, Currie 9"


To be fair- my car was built over a 2 year period, frame was bought from TCI in 1999. I've heard of fitment issues on later frames though. Car was completed in 2001 & debuted at the Oakland Roadster Show & won it's class. Trailered to indoor events for 2 1/2 years & then put on the road.

Last year- car was freshened up by So-Cal Speed Shop, interior re-done, repainted & flamed.

Here is an update on the project. This weekend we tucked the motor into the frame along with the tranny. Along the way we discovered that the mechanical fuel pump is not going to fit since the frame is pinched. Also the March pulley and belt system on the front is not going to work so I am looking for options. A few other small problems were uncovered like the header hitting the motor mount on one side but nothing that a little creative thinking can't solve.....or a REALLY BIG hammer!!!!

Anyway had a fun day....the BTT 50's show is this weekend so the garage will be quiet but I still will be smiling and drooling on all 11K cars!

Dan

The engine LOOKS to be in the correct place ... IMHO. That March system is way long. I believe a stanard short SBC ( or a ZIP water pump riser ... ) would fit ... just right.

A pinched frame causes a LOT of issues.
On my non pinched 32 frame with a SBC ... the fuel pump is a close fit.

:D

I wish I had known you were using a pinched frame. I had the same issue and made the same mistake. If you are looking for an electric fuel pump, stay away from Holley if you do not run a return line to the fuel tank. They get hot and puke out. I found that out the hard way, too. Mallory is a much better unit and I have had no issues with mine as it is a different design than Holley. The guys on the Chevytalk.com Performance Forum speak highly of the Mallory units.

Thanks for the advice guys. I am going to wait on both the electric fuel pump purchase and the pulley belt system until I get a little further along so I can see how it will come together.

This will be my first encounter with an electric FP....Do you leave the mechanical fuel pump push rod in the motor or remove it since it is not needed?

Dan