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Thread: Planning on Full Fendered Deuce later
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    florida is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 98 Vette Daily Driver - Planning 32 3W
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    Planning on Full Fendered Deuce later

     



    I could probably buy a 3w Deuce coupe for less than what it will cost me to build it, but I just want to build it. I want to start fenderless. The question is - what do I need to be aware of so I can add fenders later if I decide to make the change?
    “Ability is what you're capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do. Attitude determines how well you do it”--Lou Holtz.

  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Aside from having to drill holes in the frame for fenders and running boards, you will want to make sure anything you mount, like shock brackets, etc. will clear the fenders later on. I would think your rear end tire to tire width would also be important so they will properly tuck under the rear fenders.......otherwise it will end up looking like some of the cars built in the 70's and 80's.

    If your frame is fully boxed gaining access to the inside of the frame to put nuts on the new fender bolts might be an issue, but that could be planned for and built in.

    Don

  3. #3
    Deuce's Avatar
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    You will need a rear end ... no wider than 58 inches wide ... wheel mounting flange to wheel mounting flange. A 56 inch
    wide one is even better.



    My 32 3W has a 56 inch wide 9 inch Ford under it.

    I would suggest a 46 inch king pin front axle width.
    ( no suggestions for a IFS ... I do not build 32's with them ).



    I always make my wheelbase 106 and 3/4 inches. The rear axle is moved rearward a extra 3/4 of a inch. The extra 3/4 of a inch centers the wheels in the fender ... better than the stock 106 wheelbase.



    Finished 3W ...







    See how the tires and rims are up UNDER the fenders ??
    Both my 32's are built the same ... axle width, wheelbase and components.

    Going 33 and 1/3 rpms in a IPOD world

  4. #4
    Deuce's Avatar
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    This photo is at least 25 years old ... but see how the stock wheelbase makes the wheels/rims sit TOO FAR FORWARD ?

    The rear end is too wide also

    BUT this was considered a very good looking wll built 32 ... back in the 70's
    Going 33 and 1/3 rpms in a IPOD world

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deuce View Post
    You will need a rear end ... no wider than 58 inches wide ... wheel mounting flange to wheel mounting flange. A 56 inch
    wide one is even better.



    My 32 3W has a 56 inch wide 9 inch Ford under it.

    I would suggest a 46 inch king pin front axle width.
    ( no suggestions for a IFS ... I do not build 32's with them ).



    I always make my wheelbase 106 and 3/4 inches. The rear axle is moved rearward a extra 3/4 of a inch. The extra 3/4 of a inch centers the wheels in the fender ... better than the stock 106 wheelbase.



    Finished 3W ...







    See how the tires and rims are up UNDER the fenders ??
    Both my 32's are built the same ... axle width, wheelbase and components.

    hey Deuce!! what front spring do you use? are there different weight ratings??? thanks pete

  6. #6
    hotrodstude is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    ga.

     



    dup here in ga. we have no emmisions or safety inspections like you down in fla. i live out in the county.

  7. #7
    Deuce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prpmmp View Post
    hey Deuce!! what front spring do you use? are there different weight ratings??? thanks pete
    I suggest a TCI front spring.
    # 400-4510-00

    List $133.00 ( but mine is the CHROME one ... # 400-4510-01 )

    It is ( eye to eye ) 29.5 inches and made for a 46 inch king pin to king pin axle.
    Going 33 and 1/3 rpms in a IPOD world

  8. #8
    florida is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Deuce,
    Thanks for the heads up. The frame in your pictures shows the shock mount from the side of the frame and the lower 4 bar mount down low. In order to clear the fender the height and the angle of the shock mount must be taken into consideration too, right?
    “Ability is what you're capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do. Attitude determines how well you do it”--Lou Holtz.

  9. #9
    prpmmp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deuce View Post
    I suggest a TCI front spring.
    # 400-4510-00

    List $133.00 ( but mine is the CHROME one ... # 400-4510-01 )

    It is ( eye to eye ) 29.5 inches and made for a 46 inch king pin to king pin axle.
    thanks!! pete

  10. #10
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    One thing to consider is front hairpin or 4 link mounting. If you want fenders later you probably do not want the through-frame-mount, but instead would tab down below the frame.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  11. #11
    florida is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    One thing to consider is front hairpin or 4 link mounting. If you want fenders later you probably do not want the through-frame-mount, but instead would tab down below the frame.
    So if I understand correctly, I need to mount the 4 link down low, right? Like this Deuce?
    “Ability is what you're capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do. Attitude determines how well you do it”--Lou Holtz.

  12. #12
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by florida View Post
    So if I understand correctly, I need to mount the 4 link down low, right? Like this Deuce?
    I'm not sure that the Deuce pictured would fit fenders - I will defer to someone with more experience. As you look at the picture the upper mount is quite close to the reveal line, which I believe is the fender line? Hairpins mounted on a tab below the frame rail is probably safest, IMO.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  13. #13
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    I'm not sure that the Deuce pictured would fit fenders - I will defer to someone with more experience. As you look at the picture the upper mount is quite close to the reveal line, which I believe is the fender line? Hairpins mounted on a tab below the frame rail is probably safest, IMO.

    Florida,
    My use of the word "safest" above was related to your question of the flexibility to be able to run fenders later without having to make modifications, not to infer the safety of the system or to reopen the age old "discussion" on which is better, hairpins or four bar.

    As for opinions, like belly buttons everyone has one, and people tend to look at their own as being best, which is perfectly OK. For me, the Grand Canyon is vast, and I don't see how a four bar can give more ground clearance than a hairpin. A picture is worth a thousand words, and Deuce has given you pictures of the fender line against a TCI four bar which answers your question about being able to run fenders later, whatever you choose to hook to your frame.

    Now to the real question. Why would you want to run fenders on a hot rod???
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  14. #14
    rumrumm's Avatar
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    Fenders? You don't need no stinkin' fenders! LOL!


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  15. #15
    Deuce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post

    I don't see how a four bar can give more ground clearance than a hairpin.

    A picture is worth a thousand words, and Deuce has given you pictures of the fender line against a TCI four bar which answers your question about being able to run fenders later, whatever you choose to hook to your frame.


    Most hairpin set ups attach to a bracket that hangs lower than the one shown above. ( not my car ).
    I believe the lowest part of the hairpin is lower than my low point 4 bar.

    From a engineering stand point ... the 4 bar is superior ... because of the 4 moving points verus only three for the hairpin. The 4 bar is a parallelogram. Caster is more consistent.

    I will agree that a hairpin setup LOOKS more old timey and traditional and can be SAFE.

    Just my nickel's worth
    Going 33 and 1/3 rpms in a IPOD world

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