Hello Everyone! Hope everyone had a fantastic week-end! ;).... Are there any disadvantages to running my battery cable & fuel line inside the frame on my '32 highboy??? The rails are boxed so I thought I'd just drill a 1" hole with a hole saw at the rear & front of my frame rail & put the cables in. Should I run the fuel on one side & the battery cable on the other, for safety??? And the lines & cable wouldn't be attached to anything, just laying in there losely. Is this ok??? Thanks ;) Bill
IMO, Bad idea.
Nothing wrong with the basic idea, but you need to find a way to anchor the fuel hose and battery cables to the frame to keep them from chaffing by vibrating inside the frame. If you have ever had a braided stainless hose rub anything for very long it's more abrasive than a file as an example.
.....Thank You John! yeah didn't think of the chaffing issue. It wouldn't work.... Bill
Go to Home Depot and get a garden hose. Cut to length and run the fuel line in one length and the cable in another length. No problem.
....ah ha, good idea! ;) Thank You Tech! Bill
I do the same thing tech does.
Fwiw, I use clear PVC tubing from NAPA and run several wires inside.
A few shots of silicon lube help get the wire through the PVC if you're filling it to capacity wire-wise.
Do the same with the battery cable.
Run the batt cable down one rail and the fuel line down the other.
Grommet entry and exit points as well as making sure the grommets will stay put.
I like the fuel line to be OUTSIDE the rail ... where I can see it and repair it if it leaks ... :) I also find that if I install a inline fuel filter about half way, I can get from the rear to the front of a 32 with only the fuel filter as a junction. My parts store has 6 foot and 7 foot lines of 3/8th tubing.
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1772822712.jpg
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1913596510.jpg
I always install the battery under the front seat ... where the battery cables do not have to be very long to make it to the starter ... and I always install a cut 0ff switch ... so installing the cables inside the frame rails ... is not really a thing I do.
Just my nickel and my old timey curmudgeon way of doing things.
....Thanks C9x, I'm going to do it the way you did it. Tomorrow I'm borrowing my brother in laws pressure washer to wash off the frame {yeah when your car blows up it just never seems to do it after we leave the car wash, huh?}. Then I'll drill the frame & install the battery cable in a plastic hose. And move the battery to the trunk. I then need to buy my fuel line & install it. My existing fuel lines not very large so I'll need a bigger one anyway....
Thanks Duece, At some point I want to run my car at the drags & I need the battery in the trunk to do so. Also I need to run 2 x 2 tubing between my frame rails to mount my seat & seat belts to. This is my understanding of the rule book in so far as what I have to due because of my fiberglass body. So this is the main reason I want to run everything in the frame {to give me room}. And I will have my fuel filter & fuel pump behind my trunk mounted fuel cell do it'll just be 1 length of fuel line in the frame. Speaking of which I need to check & make sure that having the fuel line & battery cables in the frame is acceptable for NHRA!!!
Thanks again, ;0 Bill
I always try to run the battery cable and fuel lines inside the frame rails for protection from things such as jacks, jack stands , loading/unloading damage and the possibility of off track/road excursions!!!!!! For battery cable, use a length of welding cable as it is made very abrasive resistant and is the best cable you can buy. On fuel lines I use a .035 ss tube and AN flares/fittings ---the braided lines I don't like as like everyone has said are abrasive, but they also cause or are contributors to a lot of electrical malfuntions--where poor grounds cause feed back issues thru the braid....with all the high amp electric stuff as ignitions, fuel pumps and water pumps/fans---most are not grounded good and the braid then carries a lot of current in back feeds
\Also for racing the cables/lines need to be protected along the clutch/drive line areas and the frame is as good as it can get
I think Deuce's underfloor setup is a very safe way to go.
All you need is a sufficiently strong battery box that'll meet the tech requirements.
Keep in mind, a poorly retained battery in the trunk is nothing more than a big rock flying around if it comes loose in a rollover.
The battery in my 32 roadster - and the 31 roadster - sits in a 1/2" x 1" rectangular tubing box that bolts to the frame with four 3/8" bolts.
It's not all that difficult to access.
Interesting part about running the battery outside of the engine compartment away from the heat, you don't lose much battery water.
I only added water twice in an over three year period when I ran a standard battery.
Now I run an Optima and no probs.
The battery is cushioned top and bottom by 1/2" thick neoprene pads and it has a 1/4" x 1" aluminum strap hold-down up top - also neoprene padded.
Trouble-free for the last 14 years and 48,000 miles.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...2BrakeLine.jpg
Batteries need to be vented ---I wouldn't want one anywhere in the driver/passenger area
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Granted.
I'm pretty sure Deuces coupe has an access lid that seals the cockpit from battery fumes.
I'm not big on heating the battery with an exaust system. I prefer to have access to lines and cables 'cause you never know. I route them for maximum protection from jacks, rocks and bottoming out etc. If I had a show car or bike them concealing things keeps 'em looking a lot better but I would rather ride my toys than giving others the pleasure of lookin' at 'em. Readily available parts and access to them is important to me.
You'll note the battery box has heat shields.
The latest battery has been in the car for about five years.
I like batteries down low so the CG will be lower.
It's in a very protected area and so far - 14 years - no rock chips or other damage noted.
Fwiw - easily seen from outside the car, but not real noticeable since it doesn't hang down too low and is hidden to an extent by the lower four bar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by C9x
My entire exhaust system is Jet-Hot coated ... to reduce heat from the exhaust. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Offy
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1772828872.jpg
I have a fabricated drop in box for the battery. It is also Jet-Hot coated. There is a lid for the box ... I can remove the bottom seat cushion and get to the battery very easily. Because I have the original style running boards on my 32 ... the battery does NOT hang below the car ... and cannot be seen ... I am running a Red Optima Gel battery ...
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1913591140.jpg
Nothing hangs below the car ... :D
Nothing in the rules about the running of cables or fuel lines inside the frame rails. As far as the battery mount, the whole idea is to prevent hydrogen from being introduced into the driver's compartment and to prevent the battery from being thrown from the car in the event of upset. The battery must be secured with minumum 3/8" diameter fasteners. I used allthread on all my builds. It's cheap and easy. Just double-nut it or locknut it on the bottom and use large flat washers to prevent pull-through. If the battery is open to the driver's compartment, some means must be used to isolate it. Either a bulkhead of minimum 0.024" or 0.032" aluminum or mount the battery in a sealed and accepted battery box, either poly like a Moroso box or aluminum. Some fellows will mount the box to the car and then place the battery in the box without securement. NO. Secure the battery to the vehicle, then cover it with the box. You will have to include a master cut-off switch that kills all power and also kills the motor. Sometimes there is a problem with the alternator back-feeding the system even after you shut the switch off and allowing the motor to continue to run. Painless offers a fix......Quote:
Originally Posted by billlsbird
High Amp Alternator Shutdown Relay
http://www.painlessperformance.com/M...nstruction.pdf
I run everything inside the frame. I make these little plates and put bulkhead fittings in them so they are removable for maintenance. This is what it looks like as it's being done. Then on the outside I cut windows in the frame to access the fittings for assembly, then they are covered with flush mounted plates with screws so it's not noticeable when I'm done.
Ken
....Thanks Jerry, C9x, Offy, Duece, Tech & Ken.... Duece, You Jet Hot Coated your entire exhaust? Good idea! ;) I love the 'look' of your un-chopped '32 w/ fenders! Now I also want one like that! I guess it's just never enough when it comes to cars......
Jerry, I'll check on the ss lines that you mentioned, but I wanted something bigger than .035. It must come in bigger sizes.... I was leaning towards the braided line, didn't realize about the electrical issues...
C9x, yeah I was going to go in the truck but I'll check out under the car. Although I was thinking that with the battery back as far as it'd go in the trunk it'd be easier to do wheel stands!
Oh I've got a Red Optima battery....
Tech, ok, I can go into the frame, good!... yeah I've got a battery box & I'll secure it & the battery with 3/8" bolts to the frame if I go in the trunk. I also got a sheet of .032 aluminum for a bulk head between my trunk & inside my car. From what I understand of the rule book I need the bulk head because I have a fiberglass body & my fuel cell is in the trunk.....
Ken, Wow! If I could only be 1/2 as sanitary as you are I'd be happy!!!
Thanks again everyone! ;) Bill
Since we are on the subject of batteries and placement - with an 'A' chassis, I really didn't have room through the floorboards for a box so have decided that I would put it where it would do the most good if I ever decided to get on it hard - about as close to the right rear wheel as possible. The first photo is the location with just using Speedway's Optima battery hold down, the second is the sealable Summit battery case (I trashed their hold down system) - the vent is the hole in the back and the third photo is the hold down and case mated with an Optima battery. Wiring will not be hidden in the frame but mostly in a flat conduit within the passenger compartment as about the only long external run will be the headlights and they may be enclosed in a length of SS tubing - TBD though.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...rybracket1.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/battbox2.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/Battery1.jpg
Bill
The .035 was wall thickness not the tube size
Jerry
Thank You IC2, I have the exact same battery box that you have. But I think I need to up-grade on the hold down brackets as you did....
Thank You Jerry, da Bill, wake up! wall thickness!!! ;)
Bill