I need a couple of opinions

Yeah, I know, this is the deuce den - but the Model A's almost qualify.....

I'm putting my running boards together, and of course none of the trim pieces came close to fitting so there is a 4 piece set of '30's and a 2 piece set of '31's plus some SS stock from Metals Supermarket. And, naturally, the coverings weren't cut quite square(2 sets worth) and the stickum wasn't much good, which necessitated some special 2 sided tape from McMaster-Carr. Then a couple of my mistakes - not been a really good day - so I'm back on here.......:3dSMILE:

OK - the picture shows the step plate placed on a board for a guesstimated position which puts it approximately in the center of the door opening. Is this the normal place to bolt it in place? I have looked at many cars at shows. Some have that plate in the middle of the board, others, about where mine is sitting now. Also, some have it squared with the inner edge of the board, others, the outside, as I'm showing. I will be squaring with the outside. Opinions please about location.

Second - Fender welt. I really do not like it, but since it acts as an anti rub/squeek material, need something. My intent is to cut the rolled edge off what I have, stick to the joint with 2 sided tape and have it out of sight only. If I decide on having visible welt, I need to order some that is color coordinated with my car, not the standard black. Opinions on that one as well.

Thanks for any input -

Where does your foot land when you step up to get in? That's where I would put it,and to me it looks best squared to the outside edge. Hank

I'm with Hank on the step plate placement..........IF you insist on having it. One way to get an "unbiased" placement is to have a couple or so people pretend they're getting in the car without your telling them why you want them to do that. Watch where they step without thinking about it.

On the welt. Personally I use it and paint the welt with the same paint the rest of the car is done in, almost disappears. The "problem" with using a welt with out the bead is it spaces the fender away from the body leaving an exaggerated shadow line that doesn't usually look much better than the welt in black (particularly against a bright color like yours). One other alternative if the fenders fit the body really well would be thin mylar washers at each bolt, they wouldn't give as much standoff but still offer rub protection with minimal shadow line.

Did the A's & Deuces use fender welt?

I remember it on a 40, but not on an A.

Course, that could be one of those little niceties I missed somewhere along the way.

Duct tape? :D

Last A I did, I welded the fenders on and filled the seam...didn't like the welting, and liked the car even less without it!

As far as welt, an OEM style 'A' has it at about any fender, cowl cover or runnining board joint. Light duty at the cowl and heavy elsewhere

And yes, Bob, I am going to use the plates.

I'm leaving the jury still debating for a day or so while I finish up the second board

My personal preference would be not to use step plates as it seems they invite people to step on the running boards. I much prefer people to step over the boards when entering or exiting my rpu. Even the grandkids have learned to step over the boards and the car is low enough to accomidate that.

But it sounds like you are definitely going to use 'em, which is great, but it seems to me they should be placed where they would be used ( the center of the door, rather than the center of the board). Oh, and lined up with the outer edge of the board.

Personally I always use welting even though it seems to have fallen out of favor in the last little while.

Well, that's my opinion on just about everything 'cept the weather, and I think your roadster is going to look great too!

Mick

Dave...here is a pic of my Brookville A bone. I'll be honest with you, people DO use the step plate and running boards, especially older people. My 84 year old mother in law lives with us and I try to take her for a ride at least once a month during the season. However, she's always stepping on the plate and running board because it's difficult for her to get into the tight space. Unfortunately, since they are made out of aluminum, the do show signs of use. I'm polishing the damn things all the time. Attached is a pic of my Abone. Hope it helps.

Pat

Sorry, here's the pic.

Dave...sorry pic was too big. Just click on the link on my signature line. "1930 A Bone"

Thanks Pat - and the pictures showed me where to put the step plates as well. It appears that they are centered in the door opening. It doesn't look like you are using the fender welt everywhere Ford did either.

My 93 year old mother in law has been waiting for me to finish mine so she can go for a ride - and I KNOW that she will use them.

LeBaron-Bonney have the standard plates at $38 and the DeLuxe at $50 plus another $20 for the emblems. Macs are now quite a bit more, for whatever reason.

How come you are calling yours a '30 with the '31 splash shields - or was it "just one of them things"?

IC2, I have been thinking about using those to protect my 34 boards. Not sure how they would look but I like the protection angle. I also think they look better centered in the door and squared to the outer edge.

My .02 cents anyway!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 34_40

IC2, I have been thinking about using those to protect my 34 boards. Not sure how they would look but I like the protection angle. I also think they look better centered in the door and squared to the outer edge.

My .02 cents anyway!

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Mike
Not sure how they would look on a post '32 car. Why not make up a facsimile out of wood or sheet metal before you spend $50 for the plates (or wander up to Ayer and see the LeBaron-Bonney folks - they might let you borrow a set to look at when the car is available)

Mine will be door opening centered and about an inch back from the edge - decisions have been made with a little help from my friends here!!!!!

What a PITA to put these things together - 2 sets of SS trim to get 1 good useable set for the 2 boards, a piece of SS from the Metals Supermarket, 2 sets of matting (the stickum and contact cement on the first set was no good) and some super sticky 2 sided tape. Needless to say, aftermarket stuff isn't always good Chinese quality - which is where it ALL came from.

That's a good idea on L.B., maybe they would let me set'em on the boards and get an idea of the look.

Glad to hear of your decision!

When it comes time to cover my boards I hope your around so I can pick your brain! LOL..

Mike

Dave---Somehow I missed this post. Yes, model A's did have fender welt. I massaged the fenders and splash aprons on mine untill I didn't have to use any, and I do not have squeaks, rattles, nor any of the associated things that people will warn you about.---As far as positioning of the step plates, I found the most comfortable place to step when entering my RPU, and put the step plate there.---And it looks good there. Hope this helps.---Brian

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Dave---Somehow I missed this post. Yes, model A's did have fender welt. I massaged the fenders and splash aprons on mine untill I didn't have to use any, and I do not have squeaks, rattles, nor any of the associated things that people will warn you about.---As far as positioning of the step plates, I found the most comfortable place to step when entering my RPU, and put the step plate there.---And it looks good there. Hope this helps.---Brian

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Thanks Brian,
I does look like the step plates on your RPU ended up very close to centered on the door openings. Looking at your picture, the RPU doors appear to be a bit longer then my roadster - the roadster door openings are only about 23" at the top.

I spent a lot of fit up time with the fenders, splash shields and RBs, and, quite frankly, want as smooth a transition as possible between the panels without the welting lumps - and then, there's trying to match the color as well:D. I do feel that some sort of anti squeak is necessary - but then maybe squeaks wont be heard over the exhaust:LOL:

Dave---Try a place that sells industrial tapes, etc.--You should be able to get a 1" wide "tape" with adhesive backing that is used for gaskets, etcetera. That will give you ease of application, and no squeaks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Dave---Try a place that sells industrial tapes, etc.--You should be able to get a 1" wide "tape" with adhesive backing that is used for gaskets, etcetera. That will give you ease of application, and no squeaks.

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Brian
I just happened to be looking at the McMaster-Carr catalog, page 3354 ( McMaster-Carr Supply Company your post 'pinged' in. Too bad I didn't look yesterday and before I placed an order for some SS fasteners:CRY: Oh well, next order. Probably in the next week or so.

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