Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Whose wiring did you use?
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 15 of 45

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    fort myers
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
    Posts
    11,033

    I've heard the same comments about Painless being tough to install. We just used a Summit wiring kit and I think it was made by Painless, the box looks exactly the same. We have done a fair amount of wiring and it was a good thing, because parts of it even had us scratching our heads and going for an educated guess sometimes. Very bad instructions, vague, skipped lots of important parts.

    I think the next one is going to be an American Autowire. We hear good things. I have always just done my own, but the kits aren't a bad deal when you add up the cost of all the components you have to buy.

    Don

  2. #2
    HemiTCoupe's Avatar
    HemiTCoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Deer Lodge
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 T Coupe
    Posts
    793

    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    I have always just done my own, but the kits aren't a bad deal when you add up the cost of all the components you have to buy.

    Don
    Agree! But. I make mine as I go because I never know what, I'm going to end up with, and where, or when!

    Pat
    HemiTCoupe



    Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
    Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.


    Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
    1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
    '90 S-15 GMC pick up

  3. #3
    Hotrod46's Avatar
    Hotrod46 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Vidalia
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford Coupe, 1962 Austin Healey 3000
    Posts
    1,508

    I used Haywire when I built the 46. That was about 10 years ago. The instructions were very good and the quality of the parts was good too. It even came with heat shrink on the crimp ends and a seperate plug-in harness for the dash. At that time I spoke with one of the owners and he added a couple extra circuits to the harness for me. Very good service then but I haven't seen any of their stuff lately.

    I have an EZ harness in the shop for another car. It'll get the job done, but the instructions would give someone with little experience fits, I think.

    I'm going to make my own for the T.

  4. #4
    jimmyjeep is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    west olive
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 S-10 357c.i.
    Posts
    225

    Try EZ- Wiring. Good instructions, quality wire, has the wire destination printed clearly every 5 inches along the wire, and is 1/2 the price of Painless.
    "oohh...thats gonna leave a mark!"

    1997 s-10, 357 C.I., 350 turbo, speedpro 11:1,Comp Cam custom grind mech. roller, Canfield heads, 1.6 roller rockers, edelbrock tm-1, holley 750sp, Hooker Headers, MSD, 3K B&M stall, 4:11 gears

  5. #5
    Hotrod46's Avatar
    Hotrod46 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Vidalia
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford Coupe, 1962 Austin Healey 3000
    Posts
    1,508

    Quote Originally Posted by DennyW
    I keep adding, or changing things I'm going to run.
    Yeah, I know what you mean. I've wrangled with a several possible changes to the T over the last few months, but in the end I usually did what I started to do. Sometimes I think about this stuff TOO much.

    Sorry, didn't mean to hijack.

  6. #6
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,794

    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    I've heard the same comments about Painless being tough to install. We just used a Summit wiring kit and I think it was made by Painless, the box looks exactly the same. We have done a fair amount of wiring and it was a good thing, because parts of it even had us scratching our heads and going for an educated guess sometimes. Very bad instructions, vague, skipped lots of important parts.

    I think the next one is going to be an American Autowire. We hear good things. I have always just done my own, but the kits aren't a bad deal when you add up the cost of all the components you have to buy.

    Don
    After reading Don's and IC2's imput ,I went to the American Autowire web site. It actual looks easier than Painless. They don't post their instructions, but do have a help line to call. I'll give them a ring tomorrow about the highway 15 series hot rod kit. Looks to be the way to go. They seem to lean towards chevy, but work in fords so we'll see!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  7. #7
    Geronimo's Avatar
    Geronimo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Valparaiso
    Car Year, Make, Model: 58 Apache 3100
    Posts
    103

    Quote Originally Posted by stovens
    After reading Don's and IC2's imput ,I went to the American Autowire web site. It actual looks easier than Painless. They don't post their instructions, but do have a help line to call. I'll give them a ring tomorrow about the highway 15 series hot rod kit. Looks to be the way to go. They seem to lean towards chevy, but work in fords so we'll see!
    I just put one in a '32 roadster. Yuk! That would be my last choice. Boy did I chop that one up to work.

  8. #8
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,794

    Geronimo
    Clarify, please. Have you used other brands, and what made this one so bad?
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  9. #9
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Petaluma
    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
    Posts
    9,794

    Here is a link to Streetrodding forum that did a great job of summing up what's out there and the merits of each system.
    http://www.streetrodding.com/index.c...Thread/id/1525
    I'm going with American, because it's not preterminated, you wire what you need as you need it! No extra wires hanging around until you add say AC or radio. Plus the prices are quite variable, their 22 circuit highway kit, goes for as low as 360.00 on the web, maybe cheaper if you search more than I did. Biggeset complaint is it has a big fuse board for small applications. O.K. with me in the truck. I also like the guage disconnect so you can bench wire all of your guages then install and snap the connectors together! I talked with the owner on the phone and he was quite friendly and helpfull. For what it is worth, Steve.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  10. #10
    Geronimo's Avatar
    Geronimo is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Valparaiso
    Car Year, Make, Model: 58 Apache 3100
    Posts
    103

    This is a specialty of mine. If you have a good grasp on this aspect of your build then I recommend the Centech kit. If you don't, go with Ron Francis. The RF kit panel acts as a hub for all your components reducing the number of connection away from the panel. The American Auto wire kit is your run-of-the-mill GM connection kit. Yes its not preterminated at the panel but... everywhere else there is a GM connector for individual components. I have boxes full of GM style connectors I cut off wire kits because the connector doesn't end up in an accessible location. If I were to make my own harness for my own car I would still buy a run-of-the-mill kit simply because you can't buy the amount of GLX crosslinked wire for the price they sell it for. Then I would cut it up just for the wire.

  11. #11
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    UPSTATE New York
    Posts
    4,336

    Quote Originally Posted by Geronimo
    el. The American Auto wire kit is your run-of-the-mill GM connection kit. Yes its not preterminated at the panel but... everywhere else there is a GM connector for individual components. I have boxes full of GM style connectors I cut off wire kits because the connector doesn't end up in an accessible location.
    Even as a Fordnatic, do not understand why you feel that GM connectors are a negative on a wiring kit - and why they end up in the wrong place. GM connectors are the "standard" of the industry as well as easy to obtain if necessary at auto parts stores - they work and with a dab of dialectric grease, very well. If you have a connector in an incorrect place - sounds like you miscalculated, not the manufacturer. The RF Bare Bonz kit is $430 plus ingnition switch and dimmer plus alternator wiring. It includes "proper connectors and terminals" whatever that means. Centech is a bit cheaper and seems to include, again, "correct connectors and terminals", but again, switches are extra - I would almost bet they are GM style. I will stick with the AAW kit.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink