Whose wiring did you use?

the BEST crimper I have ever used is a LOBSTER AK-15A OMM.

sweet.

I've looked into several harness manufacturers mentioned here. Summit's and Ez both look about the same quality. Ron Francis and Painless both appear to be better quality with better instructions for all the options and aftermarket stuff. I'm leaning towards painless for those reasons but would like to hear from those of you who have used more than brand. It's hard to dump 350-400.00 dollars into wiring, but if it holds up and is "painless" it would be worth it.:D

Just pick up a kit from painless. I never completely wire a car before. Looking forward to it, I hope! :HMMM: :HMMM: :HMMM:

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Originally Posted by rumrumm

I used Centech and was very pleased. Excellent customer service.

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I've used numerous kits and Centech is the best overall. It allows you to customize the lengths more easily than others. And their panel looks good :)

I considered Painless because they are highly regarded by a lot of people. I went with Ron Francis because I didn't want my wires pre-terminated at the fuse block. That way I could run the wires of my choice, add more if needed, and not have a lot of unused extra wire coiled up under the dash. RF fit my need, but several other brands, such as American, Painless, Kwik Wire, etc, would have work.

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

I've heard the same comments about Painless being tough to install. We just used a Summit wiring kit and I think it was made by Painless, the box looks exactly the same. We have done a fair amount of wiring and it was a good thing, because parts of it even had us scratching our heads and going for an educated guess sometimes. Very bad instructions, vague, skipped lots of important parts.

I think the next one is going to be an American Autowire. We hear good things. I have always just done my own, but the kits aren't a bad deal when you add up the cost of all the components you have to buy.

Don

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After reading Don's and IC2's imput ,I went to the American Autowire web site. It actual looks easier than Painless. They don't post their instructions, but do have a help line to call. I'll give them a ring tomorrow about the highway 15 series hot rod kit. Looks to be the way to go. They seem to lean towards chevy, but work in fords so we'll see!:D

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Originally Posted by stovens

After reading Don's and IC2's imput ,I went to the American Autowire web site. It actual looks easier than Painless. They don't post their instructions, but do have a help line to call. I'll give them a ring tomorrow about the highway 15 series hot rod kit. Looks to be the way to go. They seem to lean towards chevy, but work in fords so we'll see!:D

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I just put one in a '32 roadster. Yuk! That would be my last choice. Boy did I chop that one up to work.

Geronimo
Clarify, please. Have you used other brands, and what made this one so bad?

Here is a link to Streetrodding forum that did a great job of summing up what's out there and the merits of each system.
http://www.streetrodding.com/index.c...Thread/id/1525
I'm going with American, because it's not preterminated, you wire what you need as you need it! No extra wires hanging around until you add say AC or radio. Plus the prices are quite variable, their 22 circuit highway kit, goes for as low as 360.00 on the web, maybe cheaper if you search more than I did. Biggeset complaint is it has a big fuse board for small applications. O.K. with me in the truck. I also like the guage disconnect so you can bench wire all of your guages then install and snap the connectors together! I talked with the owner on the phone and he was quite friendly and helpfull. For what it is worth, Steve.:)

This is a specialty of mine. If you have a good grasp on this aspect of your build then I recommend the Centech kit. If you don't, go with Ron Francis. The RF kit panel acts as a hub for all your components reducing the number of connection away from the panel. The American Auto wire kit is your run-of-the-mill GM connection kit. Yes its not preterminated at the panel but... everywhere else there is a GM connector for individual components. I have boxes full of GM style connectors I cut off wire kits because the connector doesn't end up in an accessible location. If I were to make my own harness for my own car I would still buy a run-of-the-mill kit simply because you can't buy the amount of GLX crosslinked wire for the price they sell it for. Then I would cut it up just for the wire. :cool:

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

That has always been one big debate, to solder connections or to crimp them on. I crimp, and the reason is I came out of the marine industry and soldered joints are a no-no on boats. The ABYC specs (American Boat and Yacht Council) prohibit soldered joints because soldering creates a hard spot in the wire where it can fracture from vibration. Also, not everyone is a good solderer. If done improperly it can cause cold soldered joints, and when you are laying under a dash trying to do it the potential for one or more bad connections is there.

Now, I am not saying soldering is bad on a car, lots of pro builders do that exclusively and say it is the correct way to do it. All I am saying is that a properly done crimped connection, using quality wire and terminal ends, done using a GOOD crimp tool (not the $ 5 auto parts store stripper/crimper) can be every bit as good and should not be ruled out. I have only crimped for the past 20 years or so and every connection on my '27 is still very functional. Those were done maybe 17 years ago or so.

Both methods are fine if done PROPERLY. :) :)

Don

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both methods are fine when done in the southern climates, up here in NY, crimp's corrode and fail from the inside out all the time. My MSD box came with crimped ends, I cut them off and soldered and heat shrinked new ends.

I didn't know that soldering was illegial in boats, I knew about it in avaition, but not boating. very interesting.

Reference MATT167, if you are experiencing corrossion problems with your splices, cover them with shrink sleeve. No air gets to 'em= no corrossion.

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Originally Posted by Geronimo

el. The American Auto wire kit is your run-of-the-mill GM connection kit. Yes its not preterminated at the panel but... everywhere else there is a GM connector for individual components. I have boxes full of GM style connectors I cut off wire kits because the connector doesn't end up in an accessible location.

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Even as a Fordnatic, do not understand why you feel that GM connectors are a negative on a wiring kit - and why they end up in the wrong place. GM connectors are the "standard" of the industry as well as easy to obtain if necessary at auto parts stores - they work and with a dab of dialectric grease, very well. If you have a connector in an incorrect place - sounds like you miscalculated, not the manufacturer. The RF Bare Bonz kit is $430 plus ingnition switch and dimmer plus alternator wiring. It includes "proper connectors and terminals" whatever that means. Centech is a bit cheaper and seems to include, again, "correct connectors and terminals", but again, switches are extra - I would almost bet they are GM style. I will stick with the AAW kit.

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Originally Posted by IC2

Even as a Fordnatic, do not understand why you feel that GM connectors are a negative on a wiring kit - and why they end up in the wrong place. GM connectors are the "standard" of the industry as well as easy to obtain if necessary at auto parts stores - they work and with a dab of dialectric grease, very well. If you have a connector in an incorrect place - sounds like you miscalculated, not the manufacturer. The RF Bare Bonz kit is $430 plus ingnition switch and dimmer plus alternator wiring. It includes "proper connectors and terminals" whatever that means. Centech is a bit cheaper and seems to include, again, "correct connectors and terminals", but again, switches are extra - I would almost bet they are GM style. I will stick with the AAW kit.

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Nothing wrong with GM connectors. When you are dealing with custom installations having any preterminated connection doesn't help with the installation of the harness. There are many kits available from vendors that use the molded plastic GM fuse panels, or like AAW, who use generic fuse panels ganged together and mount them to nonconductive bases. I like to use the Harley-Davidson connectors. They are compact and available in sealed(no dab of dialectric grease required) or unsealed designs. Most H-D dealers will have the in stock because they tend to do alot of custom work. Oh and I never miscalculate. :p

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Originally Posted by Geronimo

Nothing wrong with GM connectors. When you are dealing with custom installations having any preterminated connection doesn't help with the installation of the harness. There are many kits available from vendors that use the molded plastic GM fuse panels, or like AAW, who use generic fuse panels ganged together and mount them to nonconductive bases. I like to use the Harley-Davidson connectors. They are compact and available in sealed(no dab of dialectric grease required) or unsealed designs. Most H-D dealers will have the in stock because they tend to do alot of custom work. Oh and I never miscalculate. :p

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Sounds like we have our own preferences - and miscalulation is a no-no:HMMM: :D