Seats

[muncie]

How do you fellas normaly mount the seats in a glass car? Do you just
just bolt thru the floor pan? Thanks for any help.

[Don Dalton]

I MOUNTED THE SEAT RAILS(BUCKET SEATS) OR GLIDES DIRECTLY TO THE GLASS BOTTOM USING 3 3/8 IN. BOLTS PER RAIL W/2 INCH WASHERS.THE SEAT BELT MOUNTS ARE SEPERATE FROM THE SEAT MOUNTING BOLTS.THEY WERE PURCHASED WITH THE SEAT BELTS. THIS SEEMS TO WORK WELL ON THE COUPE.

Don In Austin

[Dave Severson]

I always run some steel, usually 10ga about 2"wide, above and below the floor for the seat mounts.

[Henry Rifle]

I wanted to be able to take my seats in and out easily. Remember, there's a lot of "stuff" under a street rod chassis. Also, you don't want them to pull out if you bump something. If you just bolt them through the floor, it can be very hard to get at the nuts.

I wanted the bolts to stick up through the floor from the bottom, so I made the plates shown below. The plate is 1/8" steel, 4" square. I drilled it for 3/8" bolts and tack welded them to the plate. I also drilled a couple of holes for some short #6 sheet metal screws.

After I drilled the holes in the floor, I pushed the 3/8" bolts up through the floor, then used the sheet metal screws to keep them from falling out. I oversprayed the plate with undercoat.

To remove the seats, I just have to remove four nuts and lift the seats out - and the bolts stay in place.

[C9x]

What kind of glass car?

32 roadster?

[billlsbird]

I wanted to be able to take my seats in and out easily. Remember, there's a lot of "stuff" under a street rod chassis. Also, you don't want them to pull out if you bump something. If you just bolt them through the floor, it can be very hard to get at the nuts.

I wanted the bolts to stick up through the floor from the bottom, so I made the plates shown below. The plate is 1/8" steel, 4" square. I drilled it for 3/8" bolts and tack welded them to the plate. I also drilled a couple of holes for some short #6 sheet metal screws.

After I drilled the holes in the floor, I pushed the 3/8" bolts up through the floor, then used the sheet metal screws to keep them from falling out. I oversprayed the plate with undercoat.

To remove the seats, I just have to remove four nuts and lift the seats out - and the bolts stay in place.

....Jack, I need to take my seat out to put in Sound Proofing, have it apolstered, run wires, etc. so I think I'll 'borrow' your idea... I like it!!! Thanks, Bill

[Henry Rifle]

Bill,

There are some photos on this thread showing the bolts sticking up through the floor.

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31219

Also, if you're going to use an aluminum-backed sound deadener, get yourself a roll of 2" wide aluminum foil heat duct tape at Home Depot or Lowes. I used it to hold town my wires, and to seal up the gaps between the sheets of insulation.

Oops . . . I just looked, and noticed that you read that thread. Oh well . . .

[muncie]

Thanks for the help.

[rumrumm]

I used these: http://julianos.com/anchor_plate.html. But you could make something similar.