brookville experience

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

IC2, they are in Denver. Several years ago my wife figured out that it was easier to get a "call anywhere in the US" phone line than to figure out the individual calls each month so it is easy to call around for info and besides Riley has an 800 number. I did call them and learned that both the four-spoke wheels are three hole fits to a Grant adapter (3196 for GM column) and are flat zero-dish with real rubber rings. The shipping from Denver should be about what it is for Speedway. Today I found a shop at the nearby Hanover Air Park which does powder coating and gave me a quote of $50 to powder coat the aluminum three spoke 13" wheel I ordered from Speedway. Thus I will install the 13" and if it looks good from the point of improving entry/exit from the '29 I can get it powder coated some shade of maroon to roughly match the rest of the car and then add the neat V8 emblem horn button availble from Grant for the 3196 adapter so I might actually come out of this with a nice looking wheel that allows me to get into and out of the '29! Hopefully the car is light enough that parking will not be a problem with a small wheel?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Thanks Don - I was just too lazy to look up their area code. I did bookmark their site for later reference.
Phones - we generally uses 10-10-987 which I believe is VOIP though I am looking into what Time Warner offers - it does appear cheaper in the long run and when you have kids scattered all over......

I really haven't spent a lot of time trying to get in and out of my car yet with the full top - it may be interesting as I am 6'4" tall but only a little bit too chunky around the belt line.

Not really sure what you can do about parking and low speed maneuvers with a beam front axle. Caster is not easy(almost impossible) to adjust. IFS should allow me a bit more adjustment. That Speedway wheel and PC should look great. What are you going to do - strip the covering before PC then reinstall or is it solid aluminum?

IC2, You might test entry/exit before you finalize everything. My restorer friend down the street warned me about A roadster space and took me about a mile away to a guy who has a restored '30 roadster and they warned me about the tricky entry which I found to be true; especially with the top up. The original four-spoke A wheel is pretty large and the top is low so it was not easy to get in or out, but my tilt column is probably not at the optimum position although after painting it for the third time I really don't want to mess with it more so the only answer is to use a smaller flat wheel. I am only about 5'10' and it was marginal for me so maybe you should check it out. The cockpit space is one of the big advantages of the '32 roadster. With Brian Rupnow's Pickup his doors are really from a sedan and I think a little larger than the roadster doors as well as the fact that his bucket is made from the rear of a sedan so he could gain some space to the rear. As far as I know the Speedway flat wheel is solid aluminum with a "satin" brushed finish but there may be some preliminary step for powder coat adhesion; I am willing to use sandpaper if necessary but the wheel won't be delivered until Friday of this week or maybe Monday so I will have to look at it closer when it arrives. The most important part is being able to get in and out of the car! Thus I am getting a smaller wheel close to body color for about $100 for the coated wheel, $12 for the V8 horn button and about $12 for the Grant adapter but being basically cost conscious, the fit is the most important thing. For the money, the Riley Bell type four spokes are very good but I think the slightly smaller 13" rim will help getting my physique between the door and the wheel AND with powder coating I can get a color which comes close to the body color. I am working on readying the top of the column for the wheel today and as you reminded me I am painting the little round cup at the top of the column with a rattle can color which I have found is very close to the body color, including the little metal flecks. Yesterday I bought two more rattle cans of that color so I am set for little touch ups like the heads and nuts of bolts that come through the firewall etc. I usually paint the bolt heads and nuts with the touch up color but the threads which show can be touched up by spraying my index finger and then applying the paint to the threads with my finger; it seems to work for me.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

IC2, You might test entry/exit before you finalize everything. My restorer friend down the street warned me about A roadster space and took me about a mile away to a guy who has a restored '30 roadster and they warned me about the tricky entry which I found to be true; especially with the top up. The original four-spoke A wheel is pretty large and the top is low so it was not easy to get in or out, but my tilt column is probably not at the optimum position although after painting it for the third time I really don't want to mess with it more so the only answer is to use a smaller flat wheel. I am only about 5'10' and it was marginal for me so maybe you should check it out. The cockpit space is one of the big advantages of the '32 roadster. With Brian Rupnow's Pickup his doors are really from a sedan and I think a little larger than the roadster doors as well as the fact that his bucket is made from the rear of a sedan so he could gain some space to the rear. As far as I know the Speedway flat wheel is solid aluminum with a "satin" brushed finish but there may be some preliminary step for powder coat adhesion; I am willing to use sandpaper if necessary but the wheel won't be delivered until Friday of this week or maybe Monday so I will have to look at it closer when it arrives. The most important part is being able to get in and out of the car! Thus I am getting a smaller wheel close to body color for about $100 for the coated wheel, $12 for the V8 horn button and about $12 for the Grant adapter but being basically cost conscious, the fit is the most important thing. For the money, the Riley Bell type four spokes are very good but I think the slightly smaller 13" rim will help getting my physique between the door and the wheel AND with powder coating I can get a color which comes close to the body color. I am working on readying the top of the column for the wheel today and as you reminded me I am painting the little round cup at the top of the column with a rattle can color which I have found is very close to the body color, including the little metal flecks. Yesterday I bought two more rattle cans of that color so I am set for little touch ups like the heads and nuts of bolts that come through the firewall etc. I usually paint the bolt heads and nuts with the touch up color but the threads which show can be touched up by spraying my index finger and then applying the paint to the threads with my finger; it seems to work for me.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Don,
It probably wont be much harder to get in or out with the top on then, let's say my long gone '86 Mustang GT. Since I do have a tilt column and since I'm only about 5-6 inches from the floor on my Gloide Engineering seats, can put my leg out and slide my skinny buns out. I did a lot of personal body space fitting before the top and it was fine.

As far as cockpit size, the '31 is only a very little bit shorter then the '32.

Make sure you have your camera ready - we all want to see the finished wheel:3dSMILE:

My car work today is non existent - I'm trying to put my camper back together - the water pump 'died' and almost the entire front seating area had to be disassembled to replace the @#$%$# thing last fall. If another one fails, for sure it wont take a major disassembly after my mods. And the computer is on the way to the basement when I go for tools or pieces so I'm keeping "in touch".

Don,
This is all your fault - we got to talking about steering wheels, column drops and such........

Now - which one would you want in your car - the ho hum IDIDIT or the nicely shaped, rounded edge and polished Mullins? Of course, changing another horse in the middle of the stream means it has to be fitted to the under dash framework - another 2-3 hours of 'pleasure:CRY: :LOL: .

IC2, I scratched mine putting it in but found a local shop that repolished it for me, so if the shiny one is aluminum be conscious of the posibility of scatching it.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

IC2, I scratched mine putting it in but found a local shop that repolished it for me, so if the shiny one is aluminum be conscious of the posibility of scatching it.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Don,
That's why I ended up buying a good set of buffing wheels, the dressings and a motor adapter for a 3600 RPM junker motor that I found - no matter how careful you are, something slips. But, what I will usually do on a small piece is cover the surface with masking tape. Big pieces - I've taped on heavy plastic sheeting or an old piece of toweling.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/DSC01904.jpg

I am a big guy ( 6'2' and overweight :o ) ... shown above out enjoying the 80 degree weather ... crusing in my 32 Roadster. I used a Grant steering wheel adapter to use my old Bell wheel. I did have to drill and hole in the wheel to get the horn button to function ... and get a little creative to get the turn signal cancel function to work properly. Even with the Bell wheel ... it is a little difficult getting in the roadster ... with the top on.

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Originally Posted by Deuce

I am a big guy ( 6'2' and overweight :o ) ... shown above out enjoying the 80 degree weather ... crusing in my 32 Roadster. I used a Grant steering wheel adapter to use my old Bell wheel. I did have to drill and hole in the wheel to get the horn button to function ... and get a little creative to get the turn signal cancel function to work properly. Even with the Bell wheel ... it is a little difficult getting in the roadster ... with the top on.

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Luckily I'm not overweight, (well, not too much - just a bit of beyond middle age chest gravity droop) but am tall at 6'4". What I did is mount my Glide seats very low and have them upholstered so the go about as far back as possible without sliding under the deck rail. Just by your picture you are probably 8" further forward to begin with. My seats are at the upholsterer now, waiting for me to finish final car assembly. This is the unupholstered location(I'm not using the hardtop - yet:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...d/DSC_0046.jpg

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Originally Posted by DennyW

That's one reason I used the old full sized Jeep rear seat. The back is a little thinner, allowing more room for the steering wheel. I'm 5' 11", and weigh 185, but I wanted to be able to use the seat tracks back and forth. :) I like this seat because the back tilts forward, plus, the whole seat lifts, and tilts forward, allowing access to the under side storage box.

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There are dang few current seats that would fit my car passenger compartment - it's only 42" wide at the floor according to a spec I have somewhere. Even the Model A Glide 50-50 seats take up most of the room. The back comes fully forward but I didn't buy the version that the seat lifts for access as they are about as low as possible without having the springs on the floor with the non-Brookville "Dave W's special double wall reinforced and insulated flat floorboards". Denny - I couldn't even work the pedals in your truck without hitting myself in the face with a knee. This is the reason I couldn't do a Brookville pick up - which I really wanted to build.

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Originally Posted by IC2

Just by your picture you are probably 8" further forward to begin with.

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Not really :) I have no springs in the back rest of the seat. It is Marine grade plywood with a small covering of foam. The back is less than 6 - 8 inches thick total. I removed the package tray piece ( factory seat adjustment on original 32's ) and the plywood is attached to the rear area of the roadster body. My seat bottom is moved rearward 2 and 1/2 inches and the bottom cushion is also plywood with the upholstery foam. I had a LeBaron-Bonney upholstery kit in the car at one time ... ( looked great ... it was in the original brown and stock pattern ) but I was sitting about 4 inches or so further forward and at less 5 inches higher ... NOT GOOD.