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Looks good Don.
One thing I meant to point out with the WW clamps is to substitute stainless allen bolts for the stock slot head screws on the clamps proper.
You can crank em up a bit tighter and no chances of a screwdriver slipping and gouging the Lexan.
From the discussion of Brookeville on here, it sounds like they've hired Kyle Bond (Gibbon) as a quality control consultant. ;)
Bob, here is a picture of the side rubber with the windshield open a crack. I just scratched up the inside of the channel with the point of a pair of scissors, filled the channel with "GOOP" and slid in the reproductions '29 rubber. You can be sloppy with the GOOP since when it dries/cures you can peel off the excess with a little rubbing. Now that it is in there the main seal seems to be at the top three inches of the side and the rubber along the bottom edge wedges in pretty tight.
C9X, you always have a better way! I will look for the allen head screws, thanks!
Henry Rifle, I have checked out the original Ford Service Bulletins and pictures of restored '29s and I do not see any lip at all. Apparently the rubber was supposed to be enough to seal it up, but the fact that the '30-'31 roadsters used wider side rubber with a T-channel tells us there may have been problems with the '28-'29 set up. I am going to keep it this way until/unless I have problems with it.
Don Shillady
Retired SCientist/teen rodder
Jack,Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
IMO a Brookville may be OK for a professional builder with good fab and body prep skills but they are not for the weak in patience and thin of wallet. My patience is about gone - I even spouted a few words yesterday I didn't know that were in my vocabulary
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
That is, of course, after doing it the hard way . . . twice....:LOL:
Anyway, if the WW bolts are 1/4-20 I have quite a few.
Give me the length and I'll send some over if you PM me your address.
C9X, Thanks for the offer, but the main studs were 5/16" NF24 and I have solved that problem. I am open to ideas for some silvery tubing that I could use for the wedge shaped crush washers where I am using the neoprene tubing. There is a stainless washer behind each acorn nut and they look OK. Today I trimmed the rubber strip on the top of the windshield and looked for the rear view mirror that I know I bought but did not find it yet. I am taking a breather and fall back for planning. Really I need to fix the steering connection and add the accelerator cable next so it is back to down on the floor again. Thanks very much for your help. I know where to buy the allen head screws but not in stainless. Are you saying you could send four (4) of the allen head screws? OK, I will send you my address by e-mail. I just checked and they are 1/4" -20 and the length is 3/4" under the head. Actually I took out the screw and the rubber stayed in place stuck to the Lexan so it looks like I have good adhesion.
IC2, maybe you need a rest for a few days? You are really pretty far along so just count your blessings as in "the glass is half full". The folks who annoy me are those who think you/I/others can just buy parts and bolt them together. As I have said before, my best tool is my rat-tail file and now I just assume that any part will look OK but will not really fit at first!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don,Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
I took yesterday off and am back to my patient, serene, life loving self - I'm going to a camera swap meet this morning then back to my project. As far as tools, my favorites are my grinder and welder - so I can grind it to size then weld it back together the way ol' Hank Ford originally designed it.
I'm happy to see that you are getting yours together, finally - Is another research paper going to prevent finishing this winter?
IC2, Probably the cold weather will hold me back and I will try to make an all out effort in the Spring and try to finish it in the Summer. I still have to attend some professional meetings to promote the book but maybe that will not require deep thought and maybe my wife will like the travel. I really lost a lot of time removing that large trans tunnel and now I still have to clean up the firewall. That is the last mechanical obstacle before the final challenge of wiring! An idealistic goal would be to finish in time for the Richmond NSRA National meet at the end of August but I am not promising to finish for sure by then.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
C9X, I received the allen head screws, thanks!
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Not a prob . . . you're welcome.
Man after my own heart. If you see a quick change on my ride be assured that there are gears behind the cover. Same for Buick aluminum drums. If I ever run them they will have shoes (and not pads) inside.:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by C9x
C9x, On some other thread you advised getting a Lebaron Bonney top with the idea of self installation. Today I visited a top shop here in Richmond to check out a beautiful '29 roadster that was brought back from a 1929 Shay replica that had been rolled over. It is now a beautiful fire engine red with a custom black top and side curtains but since it is based on a Shay it still has the Pinto engine and a Mustang II front end. Anyway that shop certainly does very nice work and I will take a summer teaching job to pay for a top/installation this summer. I have already purchased the stainless top irons and oak bows by working a previous summer job and had planned to buy the tan Lebaron Bonney top and have a top shop install it. However, these guys warn that with my 2" chopped windshield the Lebaron Bonney top will present problems and need to be cut down so much that it might be as easy to fabricate a top from scratch. What is your advice about the effect of the 2" chop on the fabric top? I have a feeling that I will end up using my whole summer pay for a custom top and that may be necessary, but if it is easy to adapt a LeBaron Bonney top maybe I should know that? The top this shop put on their Shay (which they use as a shop advertisement) has the '34 type slight slope forward in the back which I like and they have neat side curtains. It sounds like they are in the $2000 range but maybe with a $500 Lebaron Bonney top they could do it for $1000 making a total of $500 less. There is no chance I can do it myself, I have met my limit of skill on several parts of this project already, although I might try covering some 1/8" luan plywood with leatherette for the kick panels and the interior of the rumble seat. One interesting thing is that my wife is willing to pay for a good top rather than a cheaper half-baked job and she really wants side curtains; in fact I get the impression that If the car has side curtains it would go from "useless" to "fun" for her so that sure favors the full custom top. Is there any chance a Lebaron Bonney top can be cut down for a 2" chop? Comments?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don, I'm going to start a new post on this subject.
Title: Cloth Roadster Tops
It'll be posted in a bit.
I believe that Lebarron Bonney make the top for a 2" chop also and they also have an option that more fully encloses the sides. Your top frame will dictate which fabric kit you'll need, ie 2" chopped windshield needs 2" chopped top frame that is covered with 2" chopped fabric pattern.
Thanks Offy, I will check with Lebaron Bonney but that may be bad news for my stainless frames since they are probably for the stock height. Hopefully they can be cut down in some way.
P.S. I just checked with Lebaron Bonney and they said they do not sell a '29 top for the chopped height.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder