LS 7 in a 32 roadster

I am building a 32 roadster with a LS 7 in it. It has some unique problems that had to be solved. I thought if someone else is thinking of doing this you can see how I addressed some of the issues.
The first one that came up was where to put a dry sump tank? I didn't want it to look like a race car, this car is going to be used for comfort and extended trips. I decided to build a phony firewall that would actually be a dry sump tank. It's 1" thick and holds 7 quarts. If you can look at the back side of the tank you can see the fittings and the filler neck which will go threw the original firewall and get filled threw the cowl vent I put in, also threw the cowl vent I will fill the master cylinder for the brakes and the master for the slave cylinder. It won't be used for vent anymore it will be sealed off from the inside of the car. The photo's aren't in order, I hope it makes sense to you. I will post motor mounts next.

Another problem was motor mounts. Sorry for the size of the photo's I don't know how to do this. Anyway here are the motor mounts the design came from the need for clearance for the headers. I wanted them low in the chassis. I will post the dry sump tank installed next week. The outside of it is covered with a protective covering, underneath is A no..8 polished stainless steel that looks like a mirror.

Nice job Ken! The LS7 should be a great engine for the Deuce! Keep the post and pictures coming.

Looks great Ken!!!! What kind of cover do you have in mind for the coil packs?? I have a similar setup in a Camaro, the engine just came with polished aluminum cover over the coil packs and I'd like to see what others are doing to hid them....

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Looks great Ken!!!! What kind of cover do you have in mind for the coil packs?? I have a similar setup in a Camaro, the engine just came with polished aluminum cover over the coil packs and I'd like to see what others are doing to hid them....

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i saw a ls1 at sema that a guy made valve cover adapters and put oldstyle chevy smallblock covers on it and hid the coils . it looked great .

thanks I am going to mount the coils on the bottom of the toe board on the outside of the body. That extra 3" of material I have on the outside of the dry sump tank will be Incorporated into a cover over the coils. I am going to make a adapter for the valve covers also so I can use the early style. The fuel system on this motor is going to be pretty nice I will post pictures and see what all of you think. I am always open for suggestions. Can someone tell me how to post normal size pictures?:confused:

This is how far I am. I raised the wheel Wells up 2" so it will sit where I want it with a 32" tall tire. '39 taillights are Frenched and I cut my license plate down a 1/2" all the way around (32 LS7) so it's a little more proportionate to the rear panel. My gas tank filler neck is behind the license plate it slides into the body to expose the filler neck. The rear suspension is a winters champ style independent quick change with 4.11's. The front end is a Jerry Kugel stainless independent. I'm using a Richmond 6 speed transmission, Lakewood scatter shield and a McLeod clutch.I am going to build the headers and the exhaust next week, I will post pictures. Thanks for your interest.
Ken

I like that nice and clean

Very impressive work, I can't wait to see more! I have an LS1 in my Studebaker and just love it. Mine will be no comparison to yours though. Yours will be scary fast. There is a guy over at LS1Tech.com running mid 11s with an LS7 in a 3800 pound Monte Carlo. Yours should be an easy 10 second ride.

To downsize pictures I use a program called Irfanview, it's a freeware you can download it at IrfanView - Official Homepage - one of the most popular viewers worldwide.

Keep us posted!

Pat

Looks like your using a HRH body. Give Jerry a call, they worked with GM Performance Division to build Jay Lenos 32 "Bow Tie" deuce. This car was built to introduce GM Performance parts LS-7 crate motor program at the 2005 SEMA show.
The sump is a problem because it is a gravity feed. I also think the engine a needs the factory exhaust dump valves to run properly.

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Originally Posted by Stu Cool

Very impressive work, I can't wait to see more! I have an LS1 in my Studebaker and just love it. Mine will be no comparison to yours though. Yours will be scary fast. There is a guy over at LS1Tech.com running mid 11s with an LS7 in a 3800 pound Monte Carlo. Yours should be an easy 10 second ride.

To downsize pictures I use a program called Irfanview, it's a freeware you can download it at IrfanView - Official Homepage - one of the most popular viewers worldwide.

Keep us posted!

Pat

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Thanks Pat, I have been doing a lot of testing. I have a LS7 in my Corvette and have changed the exhaust (just the muffler) and ran it on the dyno for 457 rear wheel hp. Tomorrow I am installing Lingenfelter air filter and a computer change then back to the dyno. Then cam and headers. Then I am done, but they are telling me it will make right at 600 rear wheel hp. I will believe it when I see it. But I have to say it really responds to little changes so far. Then I will use that information to build the motor for my roadster.

Those are imressive numbers. John B's Monte Carlo dyno'e 487 RWHP, I am sure he has some tuning tweeks done and a good free flowing intake and exhaust. You can check out his web page here:

http://home.earthlink.net/~bzdel/

He has been working with John Spear at Speartech on the electronics and tune. Are you going to put any sort of rollbar in your roadster? As fast as it will be, you will need that to run at a track. It does kinda take away from the look though. Can't wait to see your progress.

Pat

No, no roll bar. I just like a lot off horse power, It's just fun to drive. I finished a 32 roadster last Easter with a blown and injected 388" Donovan (639 hp)

Started on the headers, I am to lazy to make new flanges so I just cut them off of the stock exhaust manifolds since they are all stainless from the factory. I am told these engines like a small long tube so they are 1 7/8 x 36" long with a 3" collector. Then it will be 3" threw the mufflers out the back. It's going to get challenging in the muffler department!

Nice looking Z.... I am a HUGE vette fan

Very cool! That's gonna be a real nice ride when it's all done. When I first decided to put my LT1 in my '35 coupe that was hardly done now LS1's are all over in old rods and now LS7's are showing up too. So no one will be impressed with my old Gen II smallblock if I ever get it running, but that's ok :rolleyes:

Those are the style wheels I want...there's several brands that look similar...what wheels are those?

That's a good looking start on the headers, but am wondering how you plan to route your plug wires, or change your plugs if you ever need to.

Pat

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Originally Posted by Stu Cool

That's a good looking start on the headers, but am wondering how you plan to route your plug wires, or change your plugs if you ever need to.

Pat

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Pat,
If you go back to the beginning of this post and look at the back side of my dry sump tank there is a 3" overhang. That overhang goes past the toe board in the floor, that's where he coils will be mounted, then the spark plug wires will hug the block and go up to the plugs.
Ken

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Originally Posted by 35fordcoupe

Very cool! That's gonna be a real nice ride when it's all done. When I first decided to put my LT1 in my '35 coupe that was hardly done now LS1's are all over in old rods and now LS7's are showing up too. So no one will be impressed with my old Gen II smallblock if I ever get it running, but that's ok :rolleyes:

Those are the style wheels I want...there's several brands that look similar...what wheels are those?

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There is a lot of cool stuff out there for those motors. They are all great motors, you made a good choice no matter how long it takes you.

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Originally Posted by Stu Cool

That's a good looking start on the headers, but am wondering how you plan to route your plug wires, or change your plugs if you ever need to.

Pat

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Here is a shot with the wires on. They are all easily accessible. But you are right about getting to this stuff, not to build yourself into a corner. The no. 3 tube looks like it is shielding the plug but it isn't, it kicks out for enough. The wires will now go threw the lip on the dry sump tank and down to the coils that Will be mounted at the bottom of the firewall.

Wow, that really looks great. In the first picture I could not tell that the tubes came out far enough for the steering shaft to go behind them. That is really going to give a clean appearance and hide the wires. This is really going to be a slick ride. Any chance you will ever bring it up to Northern Ca to GoodGuys or to Reno for Hot August Nights? I would love to see it in person.

Pat