advice on value of project car

Has anyone had experience with an unfinished car similar to this? Owner is asking mid $20's. I like it because I can drive it while I work on it. It would always be a driver even when complete so i'm not planning any high dollar expenditures to finish it. Would like your opinion please.
. '32 Ford 3 window coupe
. car is currently licensed and can be street driven, owner took me for a ride
. Fiberglass Heritage body - not primed or painted
. Chevy 454 with dual quads
. 350 trans
. '63-'67 Jag rear end
. boxed aftermarket frame - unknown identity
. straight front axle with wishbones
. power brakes
. Sanderson full length ceramic coated headers
. mandrel bent stainless exhaust
. power windows, mechanical doors and trunk. Doors and trunk all open/close well and the reveal is pretty uniform. The doors close flush and do not stick out at all when shut.
. needs interior - has bench seat, polished aluminum steering column, a dash w/gauges, and door handles and wooden bows for headliner. No dynamat or any covering on floor, doors, or headliner.
. Motor is strong, trans seems sound, no leaks, no smoke, couldn't find any issues underneath. No cracks/gouges in the body. Window glass good all around.

While that price doesn't sound crazy in today's market,remember that paint and interior are the big ticket items, so yeah the price is high. Hank

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Originally Posted by GMR

Has anyone had experience with an unfinished car similar to this? Owner is asking mid $20's. I like it because I can drive it while I work on it. It would always be a driver even when complete so i'm not planning any high dollar expenditures to finish it. Would like your opinion please.
. '32 Ford 3 window coupe
. car is currently licensed and can be street driven, owner took me for a ride
. Fiberglass Heritage body - not primed or painted
. Chevy 454 with dual quads
. 350 trans
. '63-'67 Jag rear end
. boxed aftermarket frame - unknown identity
. straight front axle with wishbones
. power brakes
. Sanderson full length ceramic coated headers
. mandrel bent stainless exhaust
. power windows, mechanical doors and trunk. Doors and trunk all open/close well and the reveal is pretty uniform. The doors close flush and do not stick out at all when shut.
. needs interior - has bench seat, polished aluminum steering column, a dash w/gauges, and door handles and wooden bows for headliner. No dynamat or any covering on floor, doors, or headliner.
. Motor is strong, trans seems sound, no leaks, no smoke, couldn't find any issues underneath. No cracks/gouges in the body. Window glass good all around.

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My only concern would be the combination of the big block and the Jag IRS as the torque of a BB will be too much for the rear if you really lay into it a lot. The price doesn't sound too bad given what you are getting. Just take a very close look at the body, particularly how the doors and trunk fit, etc. Heritage does not have the best reputation for building bodies, but this one may be okay.

My brothers 31 has a Jag rear. Really took a lot of jigging to get the car so it didn't wonder all over the road. When you turned the car, felt like the body moved on the chassis.

Jack

Compare it to some others out there. Most premium rollers with brake lines run. doors and trunck hung start at about $14K and go up. Rear maybe $1k tranny and engine if both are stock and used you could get for about$1500 -$2000. Wheels tires depends what they are.
IMO $20K is ok but I would offer $18K

Thankyou all. Appreciate your willingness to give me your opinions. You have helped. If I buy it I'll post pictures for your review.

. Fiberglass Heritage body - not primed or painted
Not the best repro body ...

. Chevy 454 with dual quads
Possible overheating ... waiting to happen ... 32's have a small radiator area. 454's are more prone to overheat than some other large engines ...

. 350 trans
Good transmission ... BUT Chevrolet NEVER used a light duty 350 transmission behind a Big Block ...

. '63-'67 Jag rear end
Can be a bag of snakes ... WERE popular years ago ... I hate doing brake work and U-Joint work on them :CRY:

. boxed aftermarket frame - unknown identity
Exactly that ... unknown ...

. straight front axle with wishbones
. power brakes
. Sanderson full length ceramic coated headers
. mandrel bent stainless exhaust
. power windows, mechanical doors and trunk. Doors and trunk all open/close well and the reveal is pretty uniform. The doors close flush and do not stick out at all when shut.
. needs interior - has bench seat, polished aluminum steering column, a dash w/gauges, and door handles and wooden bows for headliner.

Could you get this far along with a project for the asking price ??
If not ... :) and you like the work already done ... there is still a lot of things to do that would make it your car and your tastes. Wheels, tires, COLOR and interior make or break a Rod ... this one could be yours ... painted, upholstered and done to suit you ...

:D

Deuce - I did research these items prior to asking everyone's opinion. As I'm still learning I don't trust myself enough yet and two or more heads are always better than one. Actually, I came to pretty much the same conclusions as you and the other kind folks have mentioned - so I'm making progress. Anyway, didn't know about the cooling problem (thanks). So, my question - I don't plan on covering the engine and I do plan on driving it often and I don't want to be afraid to travel a couple hundred miles at a time on rare occaisions - do you think cooling will be a concern under those circumstances?

Also, let me shift gears, so to speak, and ask this (anyone please chime in). I like manual transmissions. Assuming I'm not worried about resale value and like shifting, are there any reasons not to have a floor shifted manual transmission in a deuce coupe?

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Originally Posted by GMR

I don't plan on covering the engine and I do plan on driving it often and I don't want to be afraid to travel a couple hundred miles at a time on rare occaisions - do you think cooling will be a concern under those circumstances?

Also, let me shift gears, so to speak, and ask this (anyone please chime in). I like manual transmissions. Assuming I'm not worried about resale value and like shifting, are there any reasons not to have a floor shifted manual transmission in a deuce coupe?

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A open hood sided Deuce usually runs cooler than a Deuce with a hood ... and Big Blocks can run cool but most do not ... that are Hot rodded... compression ratio, timing and lean/rich induction all play into it.

When GM installed a Big Block into a vehicle ... it ALWAYS got a larger radiator and big fan.

Have you ever driven a 32 Ford ?? :3dSMILE:
There is very little room around the brake pedal and steering column. Clutch linkage can be done but it takes a good bit of room and engineering to work properly. I have B I G feet ... and shifting gears in rod run traffic is not my idea of a fun weekend ...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/3a80d46e.jpg

http://images.traderonline.com/img//...86779377_1.jpg

I believe this is the car you are looking at ... is it ??

A little late to the party here due to being homeless for about a week, but I'm in the same ballpark with iceburgh. I've seen about 4 coupes similar to what you've described go for around $20k in the past year. Roadsters seem to go for slightly less though that could be more regional depending on weather considerations.

One big "negative" since in your last post you mentioned resale.............Heritage doesn't have much of a reputation for quality, better than Street Beast, but only a little, so if that's a concern factor accordingly. As for the stick thing, in today's environ it's somewhat of a plus as sticks have had a resurgence with the greater emphasis on "nostalgia" in rod construction. That being said, Deuce is right about foot room, not an impossible deal, just pretty darn tight in there. With some judicious planning and fabrication/component placement you can improve things somewhat. Below is a pic of the last Deuce I did (although the new owner is responsible for the upholstery and radio head) where the goal was to leave the floor as clear as possible for better room in a small cabin. The e-brake handle appears lower than it really is, and it is tucked pretty close to the side wall. There's room for a clutch pedal and shoes if you're not a D or wider.

Deuce - yes sir, that's it, glad you found and posted the picture, what do you all think?

Bob and Deuce - I have driven one '29 roadster on deuce rails; driven one '32 5 window; and ridden in the above pictured '32 3 window. I thought things were tight but wanted to hear from the experts. Been trying to find one in Florida (with a stick) to look at but no success yet. Nice car Bob.
Bob, by the way, wife and I are in Seattle for the holidays visiting our daughters (Snoqualmie Pass and Redmond) seems Maple Valley isn't far from Redmond.

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Originally Posted by GMR

Bob, by the way, wife and I are in Seattle for the holidays visiting our daughters (Snoqualmie Pass and Redmond) seems Maple Valley isn't far from Redmond.

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Yep, we're only about 20 or so miles apart. Don't know when you got here, but hope there is power where you are. We were without til yesterday afternoon, total of near 6 days. A far cry from what you probably have in Florida (well, this time of year anyway:3dSMILE: ) Have a Merry Christmas here.

I put a 454 big-block and a top-loader in a '30 Tudor sedan, and had no overheating or footroom problems with three pedals. My car wasn't channelled, so the flat floor gave a reasonable amount of room. Isn't an A-bone about the same width as a '32?

With a big-block, you need a good radiator and a high-capacity fan with a complete shroud. At least with a stick, the radiator isn't cooling the trans also.

If everything is in good condition, low 20's seems OK, but the Jag rear-end would worry me a bit. 454s can be torque monsters. With decent tires and a heavy foot, you could generate some shrapnel back there.

Definitely looks to be worth 20k to me.... the parts alone would cost more than that, and you can drive it while you accumulate any other stuff you want to buy for it.

Mid 20's isn't bad. I'm about the same place with one of the Merc's... It's a lot bigger car and therefore takes a bunch more time but just guesstimating on the pieces he has in the car, probably spent more then that.

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Originally Posted by GMR

Deuce - yes sir, that's it, glad you found and posted the picture, what do you all think?

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http://images.traderonline.com/img//...86779377_1.jpg

I would imagine it is worth the $$$ ... :)
But I do not like the body ... just my nickel ...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/MVC-026S.jpg

The shape of the rear window is WAY OFF ... even chopped ... ( above rear window is Henry's version )

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/dc17fff9.jpg

The side profile on the Hertitage roof looks OFF ... like it is running downhill ... to me and I simply HATE the plain looking firewall ... :rolleyes: and the glued in windshield ... sunk back in the body ... does not look good to me ...

This fiberglass body looks good to me ... and more like the Ford that Henry made ... even chopped ... look at the cowl ... where the door curves at the bottom, the firewall and such. With paint, this coupe looks like a Henry body with the roof filled ... :whacked:

http://www.wescottsauto.com/body-pho...pe-chop-00.jpg

BUT ... it is all about how You like it ...
not me or anyone else here on the internet ...

:D

Bob, good to hear your power is back - 6 days is definitely not pleasant. We came in Wednesday night, power was on here. Both my daughters lost power during the storm but each for a day only. Merry Christmas to you also.

Henry Rifle, like your sedan. Thanks for your input. Would like to see your tranny/clutch installation as a good example of how it's done.

Thanks also joeybsyc. I agree, being able to drive it while I'm working on it is a big plus.

Thankyou Dave and good luck with the Merc.

Deuce, I just don't have the discerning eye to notice all those things. I'll keep starring at those pictures a while and see if it comes to me. Thanks for taking the time to post them with your explanations.

I have a suggestion for you. Find someone who is knowledgable about fiberglass bodies who can look the car over for you and report back. Or have him go with you to look it over. That way you will get a better idea of what you would be getting into. If I lived in the area, I'd be glad to do it, but I am sure there is somebody on this forum (or others) that lives in the area who could assist you. You might have come across a real deal, or you might want to run in the opposite direction.

Paid a little over 16k for mine. TCI Mustang II, 350,700R4, quick change rear end, wheels, tires, windows in and work door work, all gages, wires, steering, all fenders, a lot of misc parts 1600 w stereo, trunk lift, A/C, just got to look around and keep you ear to the ground. I went over to look at a Slow-maro (camaro) and saw it sitting ask talked, brought it home.

Regards,

Steve

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Originally Posted by GMR

Deuce, I just don't have the discerning eye to notice all those things. I'll keep starring at those pictures a while and see if it comes to me.

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If it does not bother YOU ... then get out the check book and buy it ... :D :D then ENJOY IT ...

I am old school I guess ...
I like door hinges, cowl vents, and at 6'2" ... I do not want a chopped top 32 ... maybe I am to critical ... :)

I guess that's why I build my stuff ... and cannot be happy with owning a already built rod. :HMMM:
it would a good bit less expensive if I could ...

Just to add some emphasis to Lynn's suggestion and Deuce's comments I'll post some pics that might help in your learning.

Having someone who's familiar with fixing what's wrong with a glass rod body look at it will open your eyes to what's a "good" deal and what's not. Since the car you're asking about is a driver it should make it easier as you can drive it to the "consultant" rather than having to convince them to go with you to an immobile project. I'll talk about some of the exterior "appearance" factors, but there are also inner structural considerations that need evaluation.

In the first pic it shows a back view of the mock up phase on the 3 window I posted pics of the interior. As to Deuce's comments, look at the roof top. On the Heritage it has what I would describe as a too flat shape. On the coupe I did, your eye may, or may not, be able to see a slightly higher "crown" to the roof. It's likely a combination of the middle of the roof having more curve to it (takes more work on the mold to accomplish) and the sides easing upward in a more gradual transition to the roof center area. Another hint of what can make these a costly endeavor is in the decklid area on my car. If you look at the "black lines" surrounding the lid you'll see they fade out about the middle of the sides of the decklid curve. Then at the top, particularly on the left side, the alignment to the panel at the base of the roof turret, you see it sticks up (it was roughtly 1/8"). To fix this I had to section the inner structure below the roof turret/trunk opening inner structure to drop that panel, and build up the side portions of the decklid to match the contour of the upper quarter panels. There was also a lot of work done on the trunk opening, and the decklid edges to get the gaps "right". The second pic shows the end results. Now, at this point it's good to point out, some of this depends on what your objectives are. Are you anal enough that all of this fitment is going to be VERY important to you, or will "close enought" suit you? Only you know the real answer to that. Now back to the impact of all this effort (there were other parts of the body that needed similar massaging, and this was considered one of the best bodies available at the time, 1990). To get that decklid area roughed in (meaning not doing the priming and blocking necessary to finesse it for final paint) I would estimate, conservatively I had 60-70 hours in it. Admittedly I'm not a pro body worker, and am awful slow, so let's say a pro could do it in half the time. 30 hours at $60 per comes to $1800 for just that portion of the body. Add in the other "repairs" and it could easily double the cost of the body, which at the time was around $5000. I should add, when the body was in shiny gelcoat the untrained eye couldn't spot most of what I had to fix.

The last pic shows what being able to put a stock style (though chopped) windshield frame in does for the look. Again, this could be a matter of style and taste. This car was done in a traditional style, but if you're more into a "smoothie" style, then the glued in glass works well enough.

Steve, yes, I see what you mean. That does look like a pretty good deal you found.

Lynn, good advice, thanks. Will see if I can locate somebody.

I'm thinking about it Deuce. I understand your point of view.

OK Bob, that's a nice car. I'm studying your examples/descriptions along with Deuce's. Going to have to get my printer working so I can take this info along for comparison purposes at the next show I go to. Thanks for taking the time to educate me.