Please post some roadster windshield pics

Opps... Sorry I must have overlooked that post in the other thread...

I know Missouri is a big place but by looking at your car and the parts used and the build style. I have a very funny feeling that the guy you bought your car from is the same guy that originally built (put together) my Roadster... Did the car happen to come from Versailles MO, just outside of jefferson City?

Dave

Dave, Check your PM box.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by joeybsyc

Thanks Mel...I assumed that the rubber flap under the frame would compensate for any misalignment of the contour of the frame to the cowl... would you have had light under the rubber without filling where you filled? How did you go about the process, did you bolt the stanchions and upper posts to the frame before fitting the whole assembly to the body? What type of windshield (if any) did you have on the car prior to installing this one? Looks like my best bet may be to just drive it with the one i have for the summer, and take it to a paint shop to have the stock one installed and any hole filling/cutom fitting/repainting done as required... i was hoping it would be an easy swap with no paintwork or hassles involved, but I'm starting to loose hope that will be the case. Here's a couple better pics of where mine is mounted, both sides... hard to tell for sure if the old holes would be covered by the stock stanchions or not... whaddaya think?

---

Hi Joey
The bolt on stanchions will probably cover the area if you remove the billet posts but, it looks to me as if the there is a build up of filler on the cowl to accomadate your windshield. The cowl area should be flatter with a small ridge for the weatherstrip. Major modification is going to be required. Why don't you collect the parts you need first and then plan when you are going to change it.
I used parts from CWMoss and the frame was a 'Mr Roadster', that came unchromed unchopped and unglazed, so you have yourself quite a project already. I suggest you do this stuff first.

Thanks guys for the comments about my car. I always knew exactly how my roadster was going to look, the leaned back windshield, the 3" chop was all part of the plan.
Cx9...i found pictures of your roadster on the net while i was building mine. Your roadster gave me a lot of inspiration.

Really? I was told the cowl was stock and have seen other Kilbourne bodied cars (although not in person) with standard 32 windshield frames...I even called Kilbourne themselves and he told me he thought it would work if i could get the glass off the cowl. The glass on it now sits on top of the ridge rather than in front of it, which is I think what youre seeing as "filler". There doesn't appear to be any modification to the cowl top from what i can tell.

Also, Maybe it wasn't the case when you did yours, but I know that currently you can buy the stanchions already chopped, in stainless, and the 2" chop Mr. Roadster frame in chrome, i already had a deal done to buy the whole shooting match, complete with rubber seal, cups, wingnuts, 2" chopped posts, chrome Vintique stanchions, etc. I chickened out when i heard the holes wouldnt cover and that the glass wouldn't come off the cowl... The more I look at it though, the more i think it could be done... still don't got the guts to take a wrench and razor blade to it though...

Here are some shots of a couple of my roadsters. The red car has Dan Finks windshield on it. That particular frame is made for a stock cowl so it took a lot of work to make it fit, but I liked the design of it so I made it work. the other two shots are of my Dearborn deuce. I don't know if they are available without buying the complete body, but I would think they would be.

I don't mean to be a pain; I have not yet installed my windshield.

Looks to me also that some may trim the T channel rubber as desired to fit the builder's desires. Interesting.

Allrightythen ................

Kitz

Joey, when i said your cowl looked as though the ridge had been altered, i maybe wrong. I remember lowering mine to make the windsheild frame sit nicer. Yours maybe the correct height.
Here is a picture of an original 32 pheaton. This will give you an idea of how the windshield frame and rubber should sit on the cowl.

Thanks for the pics... I just got back from looking at a friends 32 with a stock windshield, and the way the stanchions are made, (as can also be seen in the above pic of the blue car Mel posted) It seems like the stanchions can only go one place, and in one position... as that upper "tab" that gots into the edge of the cowl ridge can only sit one place... I made a template and brought it home, and it looks like i CAN put stock stanchions on my car without any holes showing from removing the current posts... I just wonder about what I've heard from others about varying the angle of the stanchions to rake the windhshield at various angles, etc... as from what i saw today, it doesnt look like the stock stanchions can go any way but one way.

If you look at 32's with steeply raked windshields, you'll see that the stanchions are rolled back.

Aside from that, you can lean them back - within reason - by filing or grinding on the stanchion ledge where the stop on the bottom of the windshield posts go.

In fact, you may find you have to file/grind the stanchion ledge to get the posts parallel.
I did on my 32.

This pic shows my 31 with 31 A stanchions and 32 windshield post.
The post mount base, special washers etc. are the same on both cars.
Look close and you'll see where the 31 stanchion is ground so the post will lean back.
If you don't do this on the A's using 32 posts the windshield frame will lean forward . . . which is not a consideration on your 32, but may answer a question for 30-31 Model A owners wishing to use 32 posts.

There are other considerations as well, such as fitting the windshield frame etc.
A Model A windshield frame may work, but I'm building my own frame for my 31.

Here's a close-up of the ground area.
a fair bit of material is ground away and you have to weld up the hole when you're done.

This pic shows the beveled washer et al that comes with the Model A roadster stanchion.
The 32 washers are all the same and only the stanchions are different.

I see how you can change the angle of the top posts by grinding the lower stanchions, but what I'm asking is how people are saying you can angle the lower stanchions themselves, or place them in various places/positions on the cowl itself, because from what I saw today, a stock 32 lower stanchion is only going to properly go on one way, in one specified place... so that the top "ear" of the stanchion base fits onto the cowl ridge properly.

Joey, I believe that when (if) you get your present windshield off and get some stock style lower stanchions you will find there is actually a bit of leeway in the way they can be mounted. Even though the ear on the lower stanchios (posts) must align with the cowl ridge, the angle (rake) can be changed quite a bit. If you are planning on running a top, the round part of the upper stanchions should point close to straight up for the top to fit onto.

Remember when you are mocking up your template take into consideration that the windshield frame has to sit just above the cowl ridge. This also comes into play when mounting the lower posts.

I wish I had a better shot of my rpu to show the rake of the windshield. It looks to be quite a bit more than the blue phaeton pic you posted.

Mick

I didn't post the pics of the blue car, but here's the car i looked at today... i just can;t see how these stanchions would fit on this car at any angle other than exactly where they are... if you look at the curve of the ridge, it extents right into the stanchion perfectly, even tilting the stanchion slightly would throw it off.

a couple more...