Removing my windshield

I just bought my first rod and the first project i'd like to do is to change the billet style frameless windshield with a more appropriate 2" chop stock style 32 roadster windshield... I was originally worried about getting the stanchions etc. to fit, but it seems that may be the least of my problems, as i don't really know how to get the current windshield off the car without destroying the paint on the top of the cowl... its just siliconed to the posts with clear silicone, but the bottom of the glass is glued to the body with this seemingly rock hard windshield sealer stuff... has anyone EVER removed one of these windshields or even want to give me some advise on doing it? The body is a fiberglass Kilborne 32. If its gonna destroy the paint, i may just learn to live with the windshield thats on it right now, at least for awhile.

The silicone should be easy you could try heat from a heat gun but you'll have to watch the paint.

Yes, the silicone along the sides is the easy part... this butyl stuff alone the bottom is like a rock though, and i've heard it sticks to paint better than paint sticks to the car...I can just forsee a giant sheet of paint coming off with the butyl glue along the whole base of the glass... I thought about using a wire to "cut" it out, but the way it sits against the ridge on the cowl, that too would likely chew up the paint pretty bad... maybe I should learn to live with the windshield that's already on it... (can you tell I'm trying to talk myself into letting well enough alone? )

if you take an exacto knife, and run the blade along the edge of the silicone / butyl, then you'll at least minimize the paint removal.

Do you have a picture close up of that spot? ....and what does the trim package look like on the new one you want to install? I think the car looks very nice as is.

I can get better pics tomorrow... but if you're familiar with 32 ford cowls, there is a "ridge" or bump that this glass sits just behind, so there's not a "straight shot" under the glass to get a wire ir something under it to cut it out without digging the wire against the paint on the ridge. The windshield i wanted to change to has a chrome frame, and a rubber flap on the bottom, so "some" of the hackjob might be covered by the new frame, but since its a roadster and both sides of the windshield are easily seen, i think any paint flaws would likely be visible... which sorta negates changing the windshield, as i want it to look better, not worse. The windshield on the car now is done very nicely, its just a more "modern" type setup that doesn't look as good as an original style windshield on an otherwise nostalgic themed car. I'm seriously thinking of leaving it alone, at least for the time being. I've had the car 24 hours, and am worried my first "small project" could turn into a winters worth of fixing the aftermath... or worse yet, paying a paint shop to fix it. I'm still torn as to what to do.

Here's the setup I want to change to...I love everything about this car.

If it's Butyl, going to be a booger to get off without messing up the paint. Hopefully some of the pro body guys will jump in here with a solution.,,,,

I see it like a remodeling job. It's gonna have to get a little ugly before it gets better. Butyl ain't coming off without creating at least some minor issues. Just have to get yourself ready for the worst if you tackle it.

I certainly commensurate with you on your choice though. The stock styled sanchions look a little better to me too but what you got don't exactly suck! My advice would be to take your time on making the decision.

Nice Car!

Regards, Kitz

I have the same windshield on my Roadster... If the windshild is installed the same as mine there is a rubber seal at the bottom that has a sealer... When I removed my windshield to repaint the car, I had no trouble getting the glue of of the paint without messing up the paint... However I think you will find that your current windshield frame mounting holes are not in the same location as the factory style frames... The measurments I have taken from mine show that the old holes will not be covered by the stock windshield frame...

Dave Brisco

Well there's a whole new problem i didn't think I'd have... Visually, it looks to me like my holes would be covered by the larger stock style stanchions, but i must admit i have not measured anything, as i don't even have the stock stanchions yet... Dave, can I ask a BIG favor? could you take some close up pics of your windshield, the base where this rubber seal is you speak of, as well and an "across" view from the side to show where your posts are monted in relation to the cowl, and whatever other windshield related pics you could provide? You can e mail them to me directly at joeybsyc@aol.com I'd be SUPER appriciative, as i read elsewhere that your car is a Kilbourne body too, so the setup should be the same. Thanks in advance... if its determined that the post holes won't be covered by stock stanchions I am definitely NOT changing the windshield right now.

Joey,

If the comparisons I made a while back are accurate the stock stansions mount slightly forward of the ridge in the cowl and the stansions like are used on our cars is lined up directly with the cowl ridge. Also there are two bolt holes used to mount the billet stansions and the lower one is only about 1/2 inch from the bottom most part of the stansion which looks to be lower that the stock stansions.

I looked at the photo you posted above and your windshield is lined up identical to the way mine is. Photos of mine will not help you much because I have already removed my windshield when I re-painted the car and remounted it using 3M black silicone and a rubber gasket so it will different from how your described yours being glued in.

I plan to change my windshield out at some point, but I will probably repaint the car or at least the cowl when I make the change. I really like the swept back windshield that Dave Mann is selling over at Roadsters.com.

If will try to shoot a few photos over the next few days to send, in the meantime there are a few shots in my CHR photo gallery that might help.

Dave Brisco

While that bums me out, I'm VERY happy i found this out BEFORE i removed the current windshield to find the holes left behind could not be covered by the stock stanchions. Like I said, just eyeballing it, it looked like the stock ones "should" cover the same footprint of the billet ones, especially since the stockers are bigger overall... but I did have a concern the holes (or at least part of them) would remian exposed... I assume the stock windshield stanchions pretty much have to go in a specific place to allow the frame to sit properly on the cowl... so if you say you checked, i believe you. Probably wouldn't have got the glued-on glass off the cowl without a major incident anyhow.


Now a new thought...I am thinking of trying to make a top header strip for the glass, to sort of "frame" the glass for a slightly less "billet" look. Anyone have any idea where i might be able to find U-shaped aluminum or stainless channel that would slip over the top of the laminated glass windshield?

Joey,
IS it my 'cuper- or do you have only ONE windshield support ( on the passengers side ?..)
looks like from your photos, the drivers side is just glass>
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Joey,

I think there is someone here on CHR that said in an earlier post that they switched out their windshield stansions. They might have more insight into making the switch. This is just a thought, but if you are wanting to get rid of the "billet look" could you mask off the stansions and paint them Black?

Dave Brisco

fourty1, Both posts are there, not just the passenger side. Its an optical illusion from the angle i took the pic i guess.

Dave, I tried to find the thread about switching stanchions, but can't find it... any chance someone could link me to the thread? Are you saying someone did it without needing paint work? I'm confused... As for painting the ones I have black, i think polished aluminum looks better than black if i do have to keep them. Some big '32 lights and a So Cal headlight bar should help change the look even if i can't change the windshield.

An update to this project for anyone who cares...

I finally got the cajones to have-at this windshield project I have been accumating parts for... so far so good, got the old one off without TOO much trouble, although i have no skin left on my thumbs from removing all the leftover black windshield urethane sealer! My buddy came over and helped cut the glass away from the cowl with a guitar string, then cut the clear silicone along the sides of the billet posts. when the glass was cut it lifted right up out of the slots of the posts, and left about 1/2" thick bead of rock hard urethane on the cowl. We took off the posts, then bought 2 plastic paint scrapers from the hardware store and carefully scraped the urethane off the cowl... of course you couldn't get it all off this way, so it also took a ton of rubbing by hand with a few rags and some 3M Finesse-it compound. A few hours later, this is where i am.

We're going to test fit the new frame and stanchions tomorrow... wish me luck!

Congratulations ...

A little sweat and work has gone a long way ...
Photos of your progress appreciated ... keep us informed please

:D

Well, another day of sweat and determination... took the windshield off and on a dozen times, passenger side went on like a breeze, driver's side fought a bit... I was told by someone that its easier to thread studs into the backside of the stanchions and attach them with nuts on the backside, but my local hardware store didn't have all-thread with fine threads in the diameters i needed, so i just used bolts... still had to buy new ones, as the ones supplied were not long enough to go through the metal plate under my cowl... in any case, i quickly understood why the suggestion of using studs instead of bolts was a good one, although I managed to finally get the holes opened up enough to let the bolts go in at the engles they needed...

I also had 2 sets of studs for the windshield, and 2 pairs of swivel cones... all wew a bit different from each other, and i used the "trial and error" method to figure out which combination of stuff worked the best... It IS true the every manufacturer of repro stuff makes it a little different... this can actually be a GOOD thing on occassion though, because when one part doesnt fit right there is always something else to try before hacking up the poor fitting part to try to make it work. There are a gazillion adjustments that can be made, even after the stanchions are in place, but the overall height" of where the frame rides along the cowl can't be adjusted once the stanchions are in place, so thats gotta be right on the money before you mess with anything else. I did this buy loosely bolting everything together and holding the whole works up to the car. (with help from at least one buddy) Once a nice even gap is established between the bottom of the frame and the cowl ridge, we marked where the stanchions should go, then took the whole assembly off and drilled the holes. I used Vintique stanchions and they fit the body profile really nice, and so did the Mr. Roadster frame as far as that goes. the upper posts fit ok (also Vintique) but the pass side needed the hole opened up a little to allow it to move in toward the frame and keep a nice gap. After mounting the stanchions to the body where we had marked for them, we then reassembled everything to check that the fit was still there... then marked everything AGAIN, took off the stanchions and removed the marking tape, then bolted it all up for the last time. Right now my frame is at the glass shop having the windshield installed, should be done by tuesday, but could be ready as early as friday... I'm not holding my breath. Oh, and by the way, ALL holed and marks left from the old billet posts were completely covered by the stock 2" chopped stanchions. That was my biggest worry from the beginning, and i got a ton of conflicting info in regards to if this project could be done to a painted car without having to fill any holes or touch up and paint... I'm here to say it can be. Here's some pics from today.

a few more pics...

Here's a good pic to show the old holes that i was worried about covering vs. where the new holes are. No problem hiding them.

I think your project is comming along and looking good...

However I do have a though... Did you, or are you planning to fill the old holes with fiberglass... Not wanting to be a ney-sayer, but I would be a little concerned about the overlapping holes. The windshild is under lots of stress at highway speeds and while the old bottom hole might not present a problem, but I don't think I would trust the old upper bolt hole without a fiberglass patch of some kind. I think you could patch the old hole/holes and keep the work under the stansion base if you were carefull.

Someone else chime in here if I am being perinoid... Just something I think you should consider...

Dave Brisco

There is a metal plate glassed into the body on the backside to strengthen that area, plus the fiberglass itself is VERY thick in this area..I'm as big of a naysayer as anyone but i feel 100% confident that the 2 extra holes under the stanchions are not going to hurt a thing. I DID put a bit of black silicone in the holes to keep water out... kinda funny I guess, considering its a topless roadster.

By the way... do I have my mirrors on correctly, or is the right one on the left? (upside down) They looked good either way, been trying to figure out which way they'e supposed to go.

joey,
Keep the faith, dude !.
You are one Fearless Flyer,..( In a POSITIVE way ).
Your post are re-assuring regarding your determination to change/ update the look you want, regardless of how it came finished.
More power for your restless-ness..
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Been away from the forum for a while. Nice to see you have eventually taken the plunge and removed the winsheild. I have to say i am surprised to see no damage at all when you removed it.
It's looking very much nicer with your new windsheild. Well done.
Mel
I like seeing the mirrors the other way up( or down i should say).

I'm with Mel, the mirrors look more "roddy" hanging down from their mounting stalks. Glad (land surprised) you're able to hide the old mounting holes

Cool... I like em that way better too... but was afraid if i did you guys would all tell me they were upside down... :3dSMILE: I agree they look more "roddy"... is that a word? If not, it should be.

Well, its DONE! Took me a week and 3 trips back and fourth from the glass shop until they finally got it right, but today i installed the frame with glass in it, and made side seals to match the bottom seal, and finshed it all off. I haven't installed the center rear view mirror, and am debating just leaving it off, as I think it looks better without it... I can always get a suction cup one for trips and such. Anyhow, here are the pics... This was by far the single most important change I made to my car to achieve the "look" I was after. Until I can come up with the scratch for a Sid Chaver's Bop Top, I'm pretty much done with the exterior modifications I wanted to make.

Here's a cool comparison photo of how the car was when I got it, compared to how it looks now with the changes I've made...I think it looks alot better, but of course that's just my opinion!

You have done a marvelous job with the new windshield. I am really surprised that you were able to do it without a repaint of the cowl area. The car looks really great. Ya done good, Bunkie!!!!

I really like the commercial headlights better than the little ones too. Nice ride.

Thanks for the compliments guys... it really means alot... I'll be honest, I didn't know if it could be done without any paint work or major screw ups either, but i wanted it so bad i finally just decided what the heck, i'd give it a try and if i got in a bind i'd just get the sucker painted. I also had a tremendous amount of help from my buddy Brad, who has a killer 34 roadster himself and was one of the few people who truly believed it could be done without paintwork...He's responsible for me finally getting the courage to just do it, and helped me through every step of the way. This is the first rod I've ever owned, and have always been a musclecar guy, completely stock restored ones at that, so this is all new territory to me. I've wanted a deuce since I was a kid, and have a pretty clear vision of what I want it to look like. Its just about there, but my next potentially disasaterous project is going to be the attempt to install flush fit mounting tabs for a Bop Top. The interior panels all seem to be glued into place and removing the side panels to gain access to the inside rear 1/4 panel area is gonna be tough without ruining the uphulstery. The windshield project has given me new confidence that it can be done though, as hopefully I'll be as successful with that project. The first step is to raise 2500.00 for the roof itself, and another 185.00 for the flush mount kit. Any way you cut it its alot of coin, but i think it will complete the look I'm going for. Thanks again for all the support and compliments. This is my favorite hotrod website! -Joe

joey,.
Follow your dream. ! Great work.
The added bonus for ' us ' was following along, even when it looked tough going,.. but you conquered unknown.
Thanks for sharing, especially the before & now photographs,
WTG,..
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Thanks, I know I always use these forums to search for ideas on how to do stuff, so i figure when I can add to the archives and someone else can get help from my experiences, its like returning the favor for all the help i get.
Here's a pic of the car when I first saw it, compared to what it looks like today.

Turned out nice... Congratulations on a job well done. Now that I have seen that it can be done I might have to add a new windshield to mine...

Dave Brisco