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I have been actively researching what's available on the market in terms of tops fo my roadster. After all, winter is now around the corner! I have checked Sid's Bop top and 2 other tops. Can you guys point me in the direction of other tops (hard top, soft top, and especially fold down tops) that I could look into?
Any links appreciated!
Thank you!
Sissy.:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Don
brianrupnow built a top frame for his RPU that he had a local shop cover. possibly he could put a '32 roadster into his design program and design tops for the car, then you could take the plans to a good shop who can do top frames and have it made. I think www.speedwaymotors.com sells pre fab top frames for '32 roadsters.
Scan down to the bottom of the home page . . . or click here:
http://www.clubhotrod.com/modules.ph...&threadid=2519
There have also been articles in recent magazines about revertible tops for '32 roadsters.
Jack
- What's wrong with going topless?
There's always LeBarron Bonney in Mass. They have standard and hot rod tops, or, just buy the bows, a window and have your local upholsterer do it in whatever fabric you like - I did this with a '31 and had the top done to look like a cabriolet tho with side curtains rather than windows. But I live in Upstate NY and need a top many days a year, not the Left Coast, the land of sun, beaches, fruits and nuts
another source:
http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/dynamic_duo.html
I've sat in this car... the top fit is nice
mike in tucson
Hi Foxy Lady,
I do not have the web link for you, but check out the Topster II tops for roadsters & the nice thing is the Topster II DOES NOT have visible snaps along the rear of their tops. This is the way I am going to go with my roadster. Hope it works for you and it looks sleek too.
As noted, there are several ways to do it.
The BopTop and Topster tops are good looking - and fairly expensive - but their failing is they don't overlap the sides of the car.
That would allow rain that falls straight down to enter the cockpit.
Stock style tops hang out over the side window area and keep most rain out whether parked or running.
As well as keeping water out when you wash the car.
A better solution is a pair of top irons from Lebaron-Bonney (they make nice ones).
The price is fair and you have the choice of painted, part polished stainless or all stainless.
They come in standard height and 2" chop.
If you have a 3" chop, the 2" chop top irons will still work because you set the wedge angle as well as the top height over the passengers your own self.
Just depends if you want a wedged top - which is best - or a straight top.
Straight tops tend to balloon up due to airflow and wedged ones have downward air pressure on them at speed.
Top height and wedge are adjusted by where you place the middle and rear oak bows on the top irons.
Get a Lebaron-Bonney top kit as well.
Available in a variety of colors and fabrics.
Ask them for samples.
The top kit is easy to do by yourself at home.
The toughest part will be installing the rear window cuz you only have one shot to get it right.
L-B has an option to install the rear window at the factory.
The great majority of upholstery shops order in an L-B top and allude to the fact that it's made on the premises.
And charge accordingly.
I got one quote for $900. about ten years ago and later on saw a car with the same top as mine they'd done.
At the time my top cost a little over $450.
The top is lasting well and Sweetie & I enjoy it.
It does fold down, but most times we take it off and leave it at home when running topless . . . which ain't too often here in the hot Arizona sun.
Shade - and a little privacy - is another nice part about running a top.
The really nice part about the L-B top is that the rear window cloth etc. unsnaps, comes inside and gets snapped up under the top.
The big opening makes for a lot of airflow and you still have shade.
Took me about ten hours of easy two hours a day work to get my top installed.
Tools required were the usual hand tools plus an upholstery hammer to drive tacks, a staple/tack remover (available at Sears or any hardware store, Stanley makes them) a few single edge razor blades.
You can also use an air staple gun and install the top like the uph. shops do.
L-B supplies a box of copper tacks, order a second box cuz more than likely you'll have to backtrack a bit here and there.
If you run out, you can get aluminum carpet tacks at Home Despair.
Key point is, don't use blued tacks.
They rust and the rust will quickly stain the top material.
It's not too bad with a black top, but a tan or white top will show rust very quickly.
I strongly recommend you do not buy window glass for the top's rear window.
Use Lexan (a polycarbonate trade name, don't use plexiglass).
The glass is really too heavy for the cloth although the glass in my top is doing ok, but I feel that the lighter Lexan would be a much better choice.
Lexan resists scratching quite well.
I have Lexan windwings on my 32 roadster.
They get washed when the car gets washed and that's it.
No special care required.
They remain unscratched except for where some clown at a car show dragged his diamond ring across it to test what material it was.
Here's a pic with the rear window snapped open.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f278/C9x/x.jpg
And one with it closed.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ackground2.jpg
A three quarter rear view.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...re2004-jpg.jpg
And one just for fun showing the view from the cockpit.
Running Route 66 north of Kingman, Arizona.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...sonroute66.jpg
C9 - I fully agree with your assessment of LeBarron-Bonney. I do have a couple of complaints of them tho. (http://www.lebaronbonney.com/)Quote:
Originally Posted by C9x
1 - S-l-o-o-o-w and I only live 150 miles from them. ANY order takes a minimum of 2 weeks, usually 3 or more. They say 4 - 6 weeks on a top - my guess would be 6 to 8. My top bows took a month to get to me even after several phone calls and them telling me all was on-hand. Even then the order wasn't complete, with my upholsterer waiting with $90/yd :eek: fabric in hand.
2 - Limited selection of materials and colors.:(
They offer several Deuce top configurations - from Deluxe (restoration type) and 2" street rod version all priced complete from about $2025 to $2095 (this from their current 2006 summer catalog) then you need to add side curtains from a local upholsterer.:(
L-B top irons are made by Girtz http://www.girtz.com/carparts/ . The bows and other hardware can then be purchased from L-B (they are the least expensive) then have the upholsterer make up the top and side curtains at the same time.
IMHO, am not fond of the tops that only come to the rear bow - prefer to have a top go to the body to bow fastener - but personal preference dictates the final design.:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
They could be busier nowadays than they were ten years ago when I ordered my top.
The stuff I did order - about three different shipments - came within a reasonable time.
Living in Central California at the time.
Got an idea what Girtz top irons cost?
Their onlline catalog doesn't show prices.
At the time I ordered my top, they had what I considered a reasonable choice of materials and colors.
'Course, I wanted black and that made it easy.
Not sure what you mean about the top ending at the rear bow.
Any chance you're looking at a top with the rear window folded up?
My pal's 29 A roadster runs the same top and material as I do and in summer, most times the window is snapped up like is shown on my first pic above.
It is a good option and I encourage anyone who's doing a roadster top to get it.
Airflow with the window open is greatly increased and that makes life easier on a hot summer day.
See my responses in the quote
Quote:
Originally Posted by C9x
There are quite a few choices, but, IMO, it has to be what suits the individual car and its owner, and it seems HIBOY GIRL has a bunch of viable options to choose from.
HiboyGal and the rest of the clubbers, I called LB and they told me if I had a wanted a material different than theirs that would tell me how many yds. and they would make me a top and side curtains out of my material. That should open up alot of other options. I'm getting to old to go topless in Texas.:eek: :LOL:
Jim
Jim,Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Hippie
I asked them that very question about a year ago and was told that they were currently not manned up to do custom top work but hoped to be able to offer that service in the future. I'm glad to hear that they have returned to that service that they built their original reputation years past. Now, the question of quick shipping ......**)
The mailperson (being politically correct) just delivered my new L-B catalog. The complete top prices just went up - a lot. Now $2180 to $2240 for a deuce.:HMMM:
They have some fabric specials, see their website:
http://www.lebaronbonney.com/osc/cat...oducts_id=4701
I think I have it.Quote:
I meant behind the top bow (please don't take this the wrong way, but like yours ) My preferance is cabriolet appearing, hiding the rear bow
Hiding the rear bow where it drops down toward the cockpit pivot point.
I think LB calls that the Gypsy top style.
It looks good, no doubt about it, but I thought that style would impinge on the side view looking out so opted for the more open appearance.
.Quote:
Originally Posted by C9x
Not quite - yours fastens 4 to 6 behind the bow, the gypsy fastens at the bow, but it is still cut the same way. What I'm describing that I have had my upholsterer do was to make it have the same rounded shape as a cabriolet.
I don't think I'll have a visibility problem - I'm 6'4" and have Glide seats that will allow me a good sight position :D
See the Bop Top picture attached - this is the approximate configuation I have with L-B hardware. Also, attached is a photo of the interior - w/o seats.
I see what you're saying.
The Gypsy top follows the oak bow down all the way.
Your top form looks very nice.
Kinda 34 like which is the best look of all imo.
I'm planning on adapting 32 top bows to my 31 on 32 rails project.
Should be an easy project and all that looks like will have to be done vis a vis the top cloth proper is pull the top deck back about 2" before fastening.
All the 32 top irons require is the front horizontal bar be sectioned 2" and welded back together.
Everything else fits pretty good.
The pic shows a trial run with the 32's top.
I got curious about whether or not the 31's top - folded - would fit in the 31 trunk and did some measuring.
Looks like it will, but it'll just make it if it does.
Has to lie diagonally across the trunk, but I have unimpeded trunk space from behind the seat to the rear sill/trunk lid.
The top definitely won't fit into my 32's trunk with rumble lid - and no seats, just upholstery.
I'm liking the 31' s trunk option a lot better than the rumble seat option in my 32.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f278/C9x/31Top5-1.jpg
I just got the new issue of Street Rodder Magazine (November 2006). Well, I actually didn't buy it, I just borrowed it from my kid :3dSMILE: , and it contains a few articles on tops. One is about Carson tops making a comeback (lift off tops) and another article is about an Australian top iron kit. There is also an ad for a fiberglass top that you can upholster to look like a cloth top.
Anyone thinking of spending money to do this to their car should get this issue.
Don
QUOTE=C9x]I see what you're saying.
I'm liking the 31' s trunk option a lot better than the rumble seat option in my 32.
Suspicions confirmed - a '32 top is so close to a '31 it is almost like Ole Henry planned it that way.
While I do have a trunk as well, and have removed the angled floor that Brookville so kindly furnished after I specified and bought a flat floor, there is no way that I could put my top in there. I added support steel to reduce the amout of body floppiness, added a large Optima battery and holder, built a double bulkhead ~ 6" between panels to contain my American Autowire electrical system. I will be able to get a folding chair, a six cooler and a bottle of sunscreen in there.
Which brings up my question to you - where is your battery and gas tank going to reside? My '31's gas tank is a '32 style, using a Dagel's type frame mod, but I don't see a tank on your car. Will they use up most of your trunk?
I attached photos(hope they come out) of my upolstered trunk before stripping out for paint - not a lot of room, especially when I add the battery.
DonQuote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
I made one up out of steel - still fairly light - but by the time you are done, you will have spent about as much money, plus one heck of a lot of work (days) that Street Rodder doesn't tell you about. Eventually I'll finish it (I promised my upholsterer another challange) and probably sell the top irons I now have.
You still need a latching system, front and back, a header board that needs to be designed and cut out of a piece of dense wood like ash or oak and it still has to look right. I felt that I needed another 16 to 24 hours, minimum, of work on top of the 40 to 60 hours already consumed before it was ready for upholstery. I took the easy way out and went the LeBaron Bonney top irons route for the time being - with this top finished later.
Attached is a mid build photo with a temporary poplar wood header, no rear window panel and about 75% of the structure welded in place
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
People find it hard to believe, but the 31 and 32 cockpits measure just about the same with only 1/8" to 1/4" difference in all dimensions except cockpit depth.
The 31 cockpit depth is 2" shallower than the 32.
It wasn't difficult to get a good seating position with a mid 90's ChryCo soccer Mom van middle seat -- the true two passenger seat fwiw.
Many times you'll find the three passenger seat in the middle since the vans are set up to accept either seat in the middle.
With a fairly low and slightly tilted back seat base, you're looking through the center of the windshield which is about the right place for most.
Sweetie's 5'2" and she can see out of the 32 just fine -- it's seating position is the same height-wise as the 31.
There's more legroom in the 31 since the back cushion is just under the rear cockpit rail.
The 32's seat back cushion is too thick and doesn't go back into the trunk area which makes for a little less legroom.
Even so, the 32 is a comfortable car to spend the day in.
Live and learn.
The 31 also has a 4" firewall recess and the 32 firewall is flat.
I'm liking all the room in the 31's trunk as it now sits.
The fuel tanks go under the body inside the frame rails ahead of the 4 link crossmember.
There will be two and they will hold 7 gallons each.
A little more would be nice, but the 31's fuel cell is a 16 gallon model and I've never put more than 13 gallons in it.
Right now I'm deciding on the fuel filler.
The 32's is on the trunk deck sill just behind the cockpit rail left side.
That's a workable deal on the 31 as far as the filler goes, but a little measuring shows that if I run the license plate between the 39 taillights I can sink a well in there, hinge the license plate bracket and have a hidden filler cap ala 57 - and a few more - Ford.
There's a 10" drop so fuel should flow in ok.
Far as the battery goes, it will go under the body, in front of the rear axle, behind the 4 link crossmember and inside the inside the frame 4 links.
I have the same battery box setup in the 32 and it works well.
Dropping the battery on the 32 requires removal of four bolts.
I'm leaning toward a cantilevered open on one side battery box on the 31 that would allow the box to stay and the battery to be lifted out.
I'll be cutting the battery box out today - 1/2" x 1" rect tubing - so we'll see how that goes.
When I started the 32 I had a DieHard wet cell battery and due to lack of heat and being in a fairly cool area it only required water - and not much - twice over a 4 year period.
Now I'm running an Optima so life is even easier.
The pic shows a two chamber FlowMaster muffler - the short one - close to the battery box therefore the aluminum heat shields.
The 32 originally started life with a pair of glass packs that gave much more clearance between hot muff and battery.
If I could fit them in I'd run three chamber FlowMasters in the 31.
I have a pair of them on my 2002 F150 Ford SuperCrew and they have a mellow sweet sound reminiscent of a back in the day steelpack muff.
The two chambers on the 32 are too noisy.
Not to mention I've tried four different sets of mufflers on the 32 and they were all a little noisy.
My preference would be to run a Hemi Muffler.
They have a bit of sound, are a good performer, but best of all quiet.
It ain't about the noise, it's about the music....:3dSMILE:
C9
I'll send you a PM - we've hijacked this for our own discussion.
Sorry HiboyGirl
Yes I drove a cabriolet Deuce and did not like the fact that the top prevented me from having decent visibility to my sides. I would favor a style that is more "open", like yours. I saw a for sale add in paper picturing an original HF roadster with a top that was quite open on the sides but the bow was not showing. Regretably I don't know who made that top. I did save the classified showing the photo of that roadster for sale (which was picture with that cool top on). Maybe I'll just call the seller and ask :). It could also mean that this was a hard top, not a folding one. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by C9x
YES :) - Two cool facts:Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
1- I am delighted to see my good buddy Todd's coupe on the cover :) - he's a real nice guy always very helpful. he'll be at the Cruise for a cure event saturday, I am sure he will showing off the magazine hehe (I would too if I was on the cover :LOL: ). The coupe is for sale by the way... I guess he wants to move on to the next project?
2- I am driving down to CW Moss TODAY to look at that Roadster Ute top, which they have on display there (although from what I understand, just the frame, not an actual finished one). I'll let you know my thoughts. I also did contact the manufacturer and he said to buy the street rodder magazine to see photos LOL - which is on my list of things to do this morning before I hit the road. The frame is under $500, but it does not float" meaning you have to use tacks on your body - not my favorite way to go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiboyGal
One thing you can do when starting from scratch is to get the top irons mounted then install the oak bows by wrapping them with masking tape in the location you think you want them.
The masking tape makes it easy to slide the bows up and down on the irons so you can get an idea of how the top's lines will flow.
Once the oak bows are on, run several lengths of masking tape from rear cockpit rail to windshield header.
Covering half of the top will be sufficient because it's the side view you're checking out.
The side view of my 31 with masking tape that mimics the hood line will give you a good idea.
The tape will be fairly straight, but in this pic the grille shell came back a touch which allowed slack in the tape.
Once you're happy with the top's lines, install the oak bows with stainless sheet metal screws - with phillips heads.
I made a point to drive my 32 around for a few days after I'd decided where the oak bows should go.
Wrapping a little black electricians tape over the masking tape adds some strength and the masking tape prevents the black stick-um from transferring to the oak bows.
It was educational to have the top irons on and see how things like entry and exit worked out.
You'll find you have to do a slightly different maneuver when getting in or out of the car as compared to what you do when the top is off.
C9 and all of you guys: Once again you impress me with both your knowledge and your coolness (and yoru willingness to help others). I wish all forums were like this one! I previously was posting on 'another forum' (which I am not at liberty to mention hehe) and I had to run for my life, seems the only thing some of their members were interested in over there was to pick on you and they come across like total jerks. I am so glad I found this Deuce corner, where I feel welcome and I get great help from experienced Deuce owners!
You guys ROCK!
Here's another one that helps in the cold/rainy weather.
A pair of windwings.
These are made of Lexan as noted in a post above.
They mount to re-pro WW clamps from Vintique.
Note that the Lexan panels are not as long horizontally speaking as the stock 32 WW panel's.
Stock length WW's work ok, but impede entry & exit a touch.
The length on these works well, do not get in the way when entering or exiting and the nice part is, they still allow airflow in the summer.
I used to take the WW's off in the summer.
I also had a set of glass WW's and they were so heavy that they tended to slide/pivot down out of the WW clamps, especially in cold weather.
Lexan is much lighter than glass and the WW's on the 32 are about ten years old and as you can see still very clear.
One last cold weather hint . . . besides getting a heater.
Heaters do well even in an open roadster, especially so for the passenger since it dumps heat right in their lap and the driver also gets some heat.
The heater in my 32 is from Al's Carponents and works well.
The pic shows rear quarter windows that mount to the rear oak bow with longer sheet metal screws and a machine screw & nylock nut at the bottom.
Airflow tends to come off the WW's, turn in and enter the cockpit near the rear of the side window opening.
Taller people are not too bothered, but shorter folks get hit with cold air right in the ear.
The quarter windows keep the airflow out of the car
The Quarter windows you see were the prototypes.
Constructed from 1/8" Lexan.
They worked ok, but since they are center mounted, airflow caused them to buzz at highway speed.
Over a period of time they would probably start breaking, plus the buzz is a pain.
The ones in the car now are made from 3/16" Lexan.
The 3/16" is stiff enough to resist buzzing from airflow.
The quarter windows do a good job during the winter - down to 16 degrees F is my personal record - but are removed in summer to improve airflow.
I can see the coupe guys out there wondering why all the effort to set up a roadster for cold - or hot - weather running.
Kinda simple, cold weather comes on for several months here in Arizona and in fact in Central California where I used to live.
Kinda nice to be able to run it and not get eat up with the cold.
And . . . I have yet to see a hot rod coupe running in cold weather.
Here or in Sunny California....:3dSMILE:
Faith, you hung in there longer than I would have. You were taking a real beating.
Don
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
I don't think so.
Looks like there's some good info here that Hiboy Gal can take advantage of.
I like talking to folks who've done a particular thing on their hot rods.
It can help most times.
The voice of experience and all that....:)
I don't understand the mentality on some of the forums... I think Sigmond would say some of those guys have "Rod Envy" !!! ;)
I have noticed that when people show up with a nice Hot Rod they seem to get bashed by those who some how feel they have to prove themselves...
Glad you like it here with us!!!
Dave Brisco
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
HiboyGal---I am not suggesting that you build your own top, but for some good reading and education on the subject, check out my build from last winter.---Brian
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21030
Hi everyone, i noticed this thread and i thought i'd post some pictures of my roadster top. Living in England we just don't have much choice when it comes to buying a top for a 32 chopped roadster. We have to make it, or go without. Guess what a lots of guys do?
I decided that i wanted a top that had i nice rake and looked a little like a Fad_T style top. It had to dismantle and assemble quickly and stow away in the trunk.
Here's what i came up with. Completed in about 2 weeks while on holiday.Take a look at the photos. The top frame has a cantilever mechanism that lines up both frame bars when lowered down. This makes it easy to store and will look neat when lowered down on the back off the roadster.
( i hope i uploaded these photos ok)
Looks very nice and functional.......good job.
I got to this thread late but it is of interest to me since I ordered a Brookville 2" chop windshield frame and top bows from Brookville in July. I have yet to receive it all although I did get the oak cockpit rim tack rail (installed) and a set of top bow metal mounts which my 'glass body did not have (now installed). I spent the last two days in the garage working on patching my 'glass firewall after I cut out the huge trans tunnel of the Bebops body to make room for my foot on the accelerator so I missed this thread until now. Hotrod Gal is an amazing person with a real Deuce while the other gals on the Forum are fixing up later model muscle cars. There should be no doubt that the comments by C9X bear much consideration and I hope to end up with the style that folds under and uses a Lexan rear window. My answer to Hot Rod Gal is to check out the Brookville catalog. They sell a stock type windshield with bows and windshield frame for a little over $1000 but I figured once I got the bows on I can go to a local top shop for the canvas. A recent comparison was $900 for a replacement top on a Chrysler Le Baron so I expect to pay about $1500 or more for a Model A top beyond the bows and then there is the matter of the windshield glass but I hope that is $200 or less. I am hoping to end up with a stock type capability to just put the top up and down as weather may be and not worry about storing the top in my crowded rumble seat which is already quite full with a gas tank seat (fendered '29 replica).
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
It may help if you make a windshield glass pattern yourself.
Masonite works well.
Saves the glass guy some work which equals $$.
Far as the top goes, you may find that an upholstery shop is ordering in the Lebaron-Bonney kit and doing the installation with it.
I saw several roadsters with tops in the San Joaquin Valley in Central California where I used to live.
Every one was an L-B top and installed at an upholstery shop.
Nothing wrong with that if the shop charges a reasonable price, but when they allude to having made the top themselves....:rolleyes:
Thing is, the L-B tops are a simple project that you can do yourself.
Trick is, read the directions.
Get the top components out and ID them.
Read the directions and study them as you go.
Then go out to the shop, having made sure you understand the directions - which ain't all that difficult, just want to go in the right order - and get started.
When you lay the top pieces out for ID, use a carpeted floor . . . if you don't have a long-haired white cat....:eek:
Mel Chave, That is an amazing piece of work on your top! The hoops look like aluminum but are pinched down so maybe they are solid rod instead of tubing? I did not think much about how a LeBaron-Bonney top would look as far as a forward rake on the back but I wonder if that can be achieved by shortening the mounts on the back bow to bring it forward? C9x, thanks for the link to LB, the kit is only aorund $500 and worth thinking about my own installation. I like the Lexan rear quarter windows for winter and I suppose they could be used even with the Gypsy style rear triangle that follows the rear bow as Chave shows. As I recall the total restoration approach would have small side curtains over the outside of the bow. Can Chave comment about visibility with the Gypsy style? It looks to me that while the open space is less you can still see as far back to the side with the lower triangle covered.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don
You can call me Mel BTW (i prefer that).
I never noticed any visiblity problems with having the top up, but our road system is very different to yours(we don't have huge intersections!). I have side windows for when the weather turns really bad which is quite often here, lol. These actually cover over the open triangle piece of the roof, there is less visibilty but it's never a problem for me.
The nice thing about this top is it cost me 200quid (thats about 350 dollars at the present exchange rate) and no-one else has a top like it. The tubes are steel closed down and welded. I look at the prices of boptops and LB tops :eek: It would cost even more to import!! and i think i came up with a cost effective solution thats looks nice and as very functional.:cool:
I see no reason why anyone with certain skills (thats most people if they can build hot rods:) ) couldn't make a similar one, it wasn't that difficult.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel Chave
A very nice top it is.
The tops lines - design, flow etc. - look good.
I was wondering if you sewed it up at home, what kind of sewing machine - industrial or home - and if the canvas is what's usually used for convertible tops.
What sewing machine??? careful now or we'll bore the others to death. It was made with a home machine. The canvas is called 'duck' 2 layers make it 'double duck', very easy to sew. Even a gal could do it.:rolleyes:
The canvas is used on cars of all vintages. It's not the best high quality but it stretches nicely. And if i made a mistake i could afford to go and buy some more.
I styled it on an orange 32 roadster from Tuscon AZ in a streetrodder mag circa 1981-2. It had an unsual choice of engine, a V4 ford. 12spokes and big halibrands at the rear. Beautiful car, and the top was perfection.( It might have been a LB top). If i can scan a picture of it i'll post it here.
Mel