New to Forum and questions about free 32 two door

I just found this forum and have some questions
My name is Dave and I live in Northwest Montana.
A rancher down the road has been cleaning up his place and was hauling alot of stuff off to the dump. I happened along just as he was loading up a 32 Ford tudor to haul to the scrap yard and he said if I wanted it he would rather haul it 6 miles to My house than 65 miles to town so he dropped it off at My place.
It's rough but salvageable.
The body and running boards with rear fenders and doors is intact, No glass, Floorboard is intact. Cowl is complete.
The problem is that someone cut the frame right at the cowl and took the motor. Frame and all.
The frame from the cowl back is still there.
He also gave me a complete front axle with wishbone and hubs and wheels still attached.
Here is the problem.
I want to make this car "Look" fairly original.
I am however going to put a modern rear end and newer motor in it.
Is there a way to use the wishbone in its original configuration and attach it to a welded in bracket on the frame so I don't have to split the wishbone.
The rear end is also gone on this car and I already have a Ford maverick complete with motor that is going to become a donor of parts like the rear end and motor,
I am just curious since I need to build or add to the existing frame if there is a way to build a connecting point to the frame so I can use the original wishbone and 32 front axle and have it look stock.
I'm not really building a hot rod. I just think it's a neat old car and would like to build it enough to just put around in.
I hope I You understand what I am saying. I'm not real good at typing My thoughts into a message.
Thanks
Dave

Is this a gag?

A free 32 two door sedan?

I gotta see pictures.

If you don't want a rod sell it on EBay, take the money, and buy what you want. You will be surprised at what you can afford.

And if that does not turn you on, please dont do anything that can not be reversed.

Consider a mild flathead or even an early Chevy V8 mated to a 39 style box and a hydraulic brake upgrade. Also an upgrade to F1 pickup steering. These are non-invasive upgrades that will not detract from the inherent value of the car.

Minimal upgrade cars like this are very trendy right now.

Keep us posted.

You will have to post pics. Do you mean knee action front suspension, which is indipendent and I guess could be considered a wishbone front suspension? that would not be original I don't think. I think originally they used a monoleaf front suspension. 8" ford from a Ford Maverick will work nicely. I would suggest getting repop frame rails and replace your hacked 1's. That is good luck at finding a free '32 Ford.

CHOP IT!!!!!!:LOL:

Matt---all the early fords (pre 1949) has a transverse multi leaf spring in the front suspension---that is to say the spring runs crossways of the frame and is made from 6 to 10 leaves all tied together with a center bolt,and runs parallel to the I-beam axle. A monoleaf spring is a leaf spring made from one peice, not multiple leaves. That is a relatively new technology, and was not available untill the 1970's or 1980's.
Maverick4440---Although a competent fabricator can splice new front peices onto the existing frame stubs, it would really be more cost effective to buy a replacement frame (they are readily available through the aftermarket, for as low as $1000.)
You can fabricate a new center mount to hold the ball of the unsplit wishbones. The reason that most people split the wishbones was to get the front end of the car lower, for a racier profile and lower center of gravity. You can not do this without splitting the wishbones and moving the anchor points out to the frame of the car, because the lowered front end will cause the frame to hit the unsplit wishbones.
The Maverick rearend is a perfect fit under a model A or 32 Ford.

Actually not a gag,
It's not the prettiest thing on earth,
I will try to post pics of it though if it ever stops raining here so I can take some.
Who would be the lowest cost dealer of replacement frame rails?
I know I'm gonna end up sinking some money into this but I want to be as frugal as possible.
I just spent over $450 on a Hobart Mig for doing some body repairs.
The car has 21 bullet holes in it.
Like i said its rough but salvageable.
I am interested in the frame rails however.
Dave

21 holes in the body not too bad i had eight in my steel bucket alone and some looked like they were from a cannon.
any thing that old for free is great!!!

I'd invest in a frame, or have an experienced fabricator repair it for you, unless you can find someone who will give you a complete stock frame. You seem lucky, that way! :-)

Here's a customer car, just to inspire you. In 2-5 years you could be driving one of these. :-)~

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Originally posted by HOTRODPAINT
Here's a customer car, just to inspire you. In 2-5 years you could be driving one of these. :-)~

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Thats the same car except mine has a big square hole in the roof.
and no front end or front fenders and needs much body work.
The guy actually gave Me a near perfect bed for about a 34 GMC truck (Single wall without a single dent in it) and he also gave me a frame that I have no clue what it belongs too, It has front and rear axles and 4 leaf springs and disc wheels all the way around and a small hubcap about the size of a beer can top with just a star on it. all the part numbers on the frame and axles begin with EX but I can find no other identification on this frame. It was also a freebie.
But I don't know what it is.
Dave

That "big square hole in the roof" can be filled with the roof panel from a station wagon. I've seen '60's GM wagon roofs used, which have ribs in them. Look cool, and are stiffer.If your Maverick has a V8, you're halfway to heaven, and yes, you are building a HOT ROD!

Ahh yes. The big square hole! Yes this one has been filled, and I've painted many that have. My experience has been that it is usually done on most rod projects, to avoid a possible leaky roof, and because most feel it looks better. I personally would use a ribbed roof, to help avoid any warping, while welding, and also because it is a nice detail to add to the car.

If you decide to part with it let me know, I'm in the market.
Thanks
Jim Poindexter

Maverick...here is a link to an inexpensive way to put the front frame rail back on...depending on where it was cut.

http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/000103.html

Usually they were cut right in front of the firewall at the front body mount hole....I bought a 32 Tudor that had the same cut.

mike in tucson

I WISH I WAS THAT LUCKY :)

Maverick4440----Are you aware of the really nifty vice grips that are sold by Eastwood to aid in filling bullet holes with a mig? The jaw on one side has a block of copper that clamps against the sheet metal on one side of the bullet hole, and the jaw on the other side is forked to "straddle" the hole on the other side of the sheet metal. The mig wire won't stick to the copper block, so you just start welding around the edges of the hole untill it is filled in, then remove the vice grips and grind it flat.

Quote:

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Originally posted by robot
Maverick...here is a link to an inexpensive way to put the front frame rail back on...depending on where it was cut.

http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/000103.html

Usually they were cut right in front of the firewall at the front body mount hole....I bought a 32 Tudor that had the same cut.

mike in tucson

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Thank You for that link, That may be exactly what I need.
Mine was actually cut right behind the cowl but I am gonna email the guy and see how long those are and maybe I can put a filler piece in there.
Got a welder and I am the king of overkill. I would just box frame that area.
Thanks
Dave

Can you say LUCKY? You just got the best deal ever just about. Those things go for a ton of money and pretty rare. If you don't have the front fenders then you can find glass fenders easily. I would say to try and find steel fenders and it will be worth more when you or if you go to sell it. Either way I think steel is better anyways. Awsome deal though. Are you going with IFS or straight axle in the front?

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Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
Can you say LUCKY? You just got the best deal ever just about. Those things go for a ton of money and pretty rare. If you don't have the front fenders then you can find glass fenders easily. I would say to try and find steel fenders and it will be worth more when you or if you go to sell it. Either way I think steel is better anyways. Awsome deal though. Are you going with IFS or straight axle in the front?

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For some reason the straight front axle and steering arm and wishbone with brakes etc was all still there.
Who ever cut it just took the motor and transmission.
When finished i want the car to look as original as possible from the outside so i am going to use the straight front axle.

good,ay mate. In reply to your question i rekon it would probably be better for you to buy an after market frame for your car.over there in the states you can pick up a repoduction frame for early 30,s chevs and fords just about any rod shop.these come with set ups for front disc brakes and brackets for latter diff housings as well as engine mounts for v8,s if you desire to go down that road and would do away with weak pionts at the welded jionts of the frame at the cowl. this is what my friend did with his 35 dodge and i,ll probably have to do with my 52.
hope this advise helps
happy travels

Yeah that is what I like is the straight front axle. I like how it looks on open wheeled raodsters too. There is a early 30's Ford truck near me with no chop top roof, etc (which I actually like chopped 30's roofs on trucks and without chopped I like too because it looks more.... 30's I guess haha) but anyways he has a Mustang II kit on the front or some kind of IFS and I don't like it. Looks weird and not right IMO. Of course the IFS will ride better but heck if your not driving it everyday then sacraficing a little comfort for looks is ok in my book. Well I guess when your older you want more comfort but when your young like me you don't care. :p