Quarter glass install

Just wondering if anyone else has had problems with sealing the quarter windows in a 5 window? After running the rubber molding around the glass, setting the window in place, and mounting the interior trim pieces around the windows, both the left and right side windows will move side to side about 1/8".

I compared the Vintique molding to the brand that a local Ford store carries, and they are exact. The body on my car, along with the interior trim pieces are original. The window, although new, is the same thickness of the original glass.

I could run a bead of urethane around the "outside" edge of the interior trim piece so it would push the window tighter against the body, but thats a "bandaid" fix; not like it should be.

Anyone else have trouble with this?

Thanks,
Greg

Find a guy on here named "topster" he might know:LOL:

LOL...I take it this is something he might have encountered?

Greg

Hi Greg! Well, I've got a glass 5 window, by New Age Motorsports, and I haven't got into putting the quarter windows in yet so I'm not sure what I'm going to do there yet. A friend of mine has a glass shop and I told him that when it's ready to go on the road I'll drive it to his shop and leave it with him for a weekend!!;) Hopefully he'll make it right! Yours should be easy to fit tho being original and all - mine looks like it's going to be a bitch to fit glass into!!:mad: Let me know if you find a trick tho!

Thanks for the reply. I myself am stumped. I expected the other trim I looked at to be different, or the window to be thinner, but it's not. I even tried to put the trim on forcing it down on the edge of the glass, rather than stretching it out, thinking there could be a chance that the trim would retract a little. I don't want a gap between the two ends.

So far, no gap...but it's not right and will have to be fixed somehow.

Greg

Hello Greg, I've been reading your Thread and trying to figure out what it looks like, does the rubber have a groove on the bottom and the top ? the bottom going over the steel lip on the window opening and the inside grooved for the glass to set in ? And is the rubber " Shrinking " leaving a gap , where the two ends come together? If this is the case I saw a great glue at the Nationals in Aug. you put a drop on the ends , press them together and spray a shot of catalist on it and it sets immediately and it " Will NOT Break where you Glued it together, they demonstate it on fan belts, as a repair and it's uses are endless. Name ? don't remember. The word Cool is in the Name , it's a little pricey but if it solves a problem it's worth it. Hope this helps. and if I'm off base , Just disregard, either way good luck .

I think Henry used a "tar cord" inside the seal of the glass sometimes. It looks like a piece of loose 1/4" rope dipped in sticky tar.

I've seen two A sedans with the same stuff, so I know it wasn't homemade.:cool:

Tim- I was trying to think of a way to describe it, so I "drew" what the molding looks like. It's funny you ask about if it goes over the lip of the body, as my father said the original molding, rather than being flat on the sides, had a lip that actually stuck out and layed over the body. Where the two ends meet is fine, with no gaps...it's almost as if the rubber molding is not thick enough. With the interior window trim piece installed, from the outside of the car, if you press on the window, it will move in almost an 1/8". I checked to see if there was some kind of garnish molding or something that goes on the interior trim piece, but there are no rectangular shaped holes to put them in.

Madgrinder and Csf...I have seen what you guys are referring to, and I might have to go that route. Again, I thought of running a 1/4" bead of urethane around the "outside" facing edge of the interior trim piece, so that when the trim piece is installed, it would push out on the window molding, sealing it to the body better. This would seem "cobbled" to me, but I might have to go this route.

Thanks all for the replies. Heres a drawing of the molding I have now.

Thanks,
Greg

Having spent my career in a chemical laboratory I am used to going to a stock room and just signing out whatever is needed and we had all kinds and sizes of TUBING. Here is just one supplier of Tygon tubing:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=12314

It looks to me that the 1/4" od tubing can be bought cheaply and it should compress nicely as a gasket around the edge of the glass rather than mess with a "tar rope". There are probably other suppliers but the one above should be a source of various tubing types.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don, I have a bunch of yellow tygon hose here. Are you saying for putting between the glass and trim piece, or to cut lengthwise and wrap around the window?

As I think about it, if placed between the existing window molding and the trim piece, it would do basically the same thing as urethane...and be alot cleaner. Is this what you are talking about?

Thanks,
Greg

I was thinking just to lay it on the glass under the trim molding and let the screws flatten it out, but maybe the thin 1/4" is best. You might have to put a short piece of clothes hanger wire in both ends to connect it or use a piece of a toothpick just to hold it in a circular shape until you can lock it down with the frame. Actually I have tried to make a window seal for a window over an air conditioner in my home using the method of splitting some 3/4" clear tubing and it really did not work well because it is difficult to split the tubing without some spiral contortions in the cut and then the split tubing does not fit well. Just lay the tubing on the glass and clamp it down with the frame and it should be a clean installation. If you only have thicker tubing you could split it if you have to.

P.S. you lucky dog with a coupe, I am going to freeze my afterparts as well as sinuses with a roadster!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Thanks for the idea, and thanks for the quick response! lol Im heading out to the garage now- Bottom line is if it does not work, all i'd have to do is remove it. Not like i'd mess anything up in the process.

Greg

I just came back from buying some electrical supplies at Ace Hardware here in Ashland and they have very nice 1/4" OD clear plastic tubing for $0.15/ft. Check with the nearest Ace HArdware and probably they have it too.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Blue; Are your window garnish mouldings glass or steel ? Would it be possible for you to add to the inside lip enough for it to contact or at least come closer to the Glass itself ? If they are fiberglass you could just layup several layers and blend it in, same goes for steel if your only talking about taking up 1/4 in. Granted it's a lot of work but what isn't in street rods. The final product is what makes it all worthwhile, when you can stand back and grin and be proud that you've beeten the problem and It looks good too. !

They are steel. I tried a couple pieces of tubing the other night, and although it seems a little tight; pressing in on the window to get the screws started, it looks like it might work. I decided to wait until my father is here to see what he can come up with. I've now temporarily directed my ttention to putting the rear fenders on. LOL

Thanks again,
Greg