327 Questions

First off I'm a complete newbie to SBC's! I've built and restored Porsches and VW's for 25 plus years and have now decided to try an SBC rebuild.

I have the opportunity to buy a 1967 327 that is complete. It came from a 1967 Impala that had 67K original miles on it. My application is best served by the higher revving lower torque of the 327(?).

My question is: if I leave it alone and just rebuild it, what would the aproximate HP be? I don't want to exceed 300hp for my application.

The only possible upgrade I am considering is aluminum heads, for lower weight. I have a ton more questions but will save those for another day.

What should I pay for this motor, it is complete form carb to pan?

Thanks
Randy

These engines were factory rated anywhere from 200 to 350 hp depending on cam, induction, heads, comp ratio, and exhaust. In other words, the usual stuff. Remember though, those were gross rather than net hp numbers.

If you go the aluminum head route, you'll likely end up with heads that flow well. So a mild cam, and modest induction should keep you under 300. Of course, this is a Levi's dyno rating.

If you want reving, and this is a small journal cranked engine ('67 was a transition year), you could put in a 283 crank for a shorter stroke.

Pay as little as possible.:) Core values vary around the country, and there could be a "muscle era" factor here, even though it's a small block, but certainly less than $500.

Thanks Bob, I know it has double hump heads, whatever that means. I have heard of others putting in a 283 crank, I will try to maintain this in it's original format for cost reasons.

This is going to be an adventure for me, any single book that you or anyone could recommend, I have heard the Vizard book is good.

I am hoping to be able to do this with out boring, I'll know when I tear it down.

Any other advice for a newbie will be devoured and digested!:D

Trouble with those camel hmp heads is.........could be 300 hp or up th 375 hp engine.......my Vette was a 64 with injection,had these heads and rated 375 hp,,for old technology, they were great heads and flowed great...202 valves helped with the breathing.Don't think you can go too wrong with those heads, altho I would put in screw in studs for longer life.

If you don't want the heads I'm sure you can find someone to take them off your hands.

Thanks for the assistance. I am planning on having the block boiled/cleaned whatever, and I think I will have to have the valves upgraded for unleaded fuels. Will most machine shop magniflux a block? Again, all my experience is with Porches and VW's. I'm sure someone would gladly take the heads off my hands, I don't have the motor in my hands yet, but am afraid that it may have the 2.02 valves, which will drive the hp up. I know most of you are saying "WHO CARES" but my application is limited. If you care to know I'm installing this motor in a 1974 Porsche 914. I know it's not a Rod, but it's heart is in the right place.

On another note, have any of you followed the latest trend in VW land, the Rat Rod look, http://socalook.com/socalook.shtml I think that it is interesting to see this look hit the VW world, it is becoming very popular. Sorry if this is off topic, I just thought it was interesting.

Randy

If you stick to a high torque,short duration hydraulic camshaft it should keep the power down. Also a good dual plane intake should keep thing's in the lower R.P.M. range. Probably just where you want it.You should be able to keep it in the H.P. range you need. Good luck with your Porche ,love to see some picture's when you finish it.

It has been said that American Hot Rods evolved out of the desire of Americans for European Sports car performance prior to Corvettes and the early T-bird. Now you are going the other way and I am familiar with putting Aluminum 215 cu. in. GM engines in MGs. However you have started an argument within my head as to what will result. The weight given for a 914 on one site is 2890 pounds while others claim lower weights down to 2000 pounds and with 4 cyl engines 0-60 times as low as 4 sec are quoted on some sites touting 914s. My question is estimating my 0-60 times for a '29 Ford roadster ('glass replica) with a mild 350 estimated at 250-280 HP on the GM rating scale later than '72. I have been told that the '72 and later H.P. values are about 50 lower due to measuring the H.P. at the tail shaft and with an alternator while the earlier values were measured on a bare engine driving only the water pump, oil pump and distributor. Thus the interesting picture you show above might be rated at 250 H.P. (??) on the new scale. I guess the secret to low 0-60 times for the 914 is in the transmission?? I just checked the 0-60 time measured for the famous "Magoo '29 Roadster" (HR Rod & Custom No. 11) and he gets 6.52 sec without fenders using a hi-po 327 and auto-3-speed. Thus with non-aerodynamic fenders and the added weight of the fenders I guess I will be lucky to get 7 sec with a 2200 pound roadster with a 350/TH350/2.79 rear?? Admittedly you have an advantage with a 4-speed but what do you expect to get for 0-60 with the 327? (Just bench racing while I wait for parts).

Best Wishes,
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Quote:

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Originally posted by 1bad914

On another note, have any of you followed the latest trend in VW land, the Rat Rod look, http://socalook.com/socalook.shtml I think that it is interesting to see this look hit the VW world, it is becoming very popular. Sorry if this is off topic, I just thought it was interesting.

Randy

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Awesome link, I saw that chopped bug before, its just as bad ass now as it was then.

Good dialogue Don,
The weight of a 914 is 2290 give or take a pound or two. The 0-60 times are real and have been documented heavily amoungst the 914-V8 community. These are actual figures from people that have done the conversions. My reason for the conversion is $$. There are three main ways to make the anemic 914 go fast. Build-up the stock motor large dollars, I have done it before and it is not cheap. Option two is a conversion to a 911 flat six, even more expensive. Number three is the SBC Conversion, the least expensive out of the bunch. There are other less popular conversions, but these three are the ones seen the most. I have the motor, I can sell the Porsche motor to fund the conversion, so my out of pocket expenses will be fairly small. So this is a low-budget fun car. Plus it handles like a go cart. This is a pic of my last one, it had a hi-po Porsche motor in it. Fun, but no where near the fun of the SBC.

Just for reference, I have a 72 Porsche 914 with a professionally built 300HP 327-V8 driving a stock 901 gearbox. Car is 'normal' with the exception of GT flares and will do Oh 2 60 in just shy of 5 seconds.

Also for the record, I'm going to modify the engine to include a steel 283 crank and double hump heads to increase the rev range as well as the horsepower.

Lastly, start searching for an H / 19:32 gear which you will need for 5th - move current 5th to 4th and current 4th to 3rd. Don't use 1st at all.

Good luck ... Ed

PS If you want to sell those double humps, let me know ... what state are you in - besides confused !!!

Ed,
Thanks for the reference. I've decided to keep the double hump heads for now. I'm in Michigan. Do you have a RH conversion or something else. What radiator setup did you use? Lot's of questions. To keep the post on topic, I have heard that the 283 crank was a great addition. How is you gearbox holding up to 300 hp? Where would I find that 19:32 gear. How much do you drive yours? I plan on driving it daily in the summer!

Randy

Conversion was 1st done in 1978, well before any of the conversion gurus started biz ... a little of RSH and a little of Jaide.

Radiator is from an air conditioned 69 Camaro Z28 - works great with the right fan ( Single 2800 CFM puller ).

Gearbox is just now, after 17 years, starting to give out - the intermediate plate is going. Will replace as soon as I get my hands on an aluminum intermediate plate that I've ordered and a line on that 19:32 H gear. These are tough to find but worth the search - or use an HA !!!

It's a daily driver but mostly around town due to the lack of an H gear.

Hope you enjoy yours 1/2 as much as I enjoy mine !!!

Wow, you must have been a pioneer. I thought about the Camaro rad, but by the time I find one and have it re-cored or checked and then fab all the sheet metal around it I could have bought the RH version. They tell you the Camaro rad will not cool 300hp, I knew it would. they just want you to buy thiers. There is another company (Desert Hybrids) that I've been thinking about using. It will be a blast to drive. Where are you located.

Randy

Located in the San Jose, CA area.

Ed Ducey:

On another thread (Corvette heads...) I offered a set of 461 double-hump heads for $200 plus shipping. They are bare (no valves or springs) and the intake seats are cut for 2.02 valves (apparently they were 1.94 originally) They are not 461X which were probably the best of the early double-hump heads, but they are next to them in flow; second on the list of best flow. They do not have accesory holes in the ends of the heads, but maybe you do not have space for accessories like an AC mounted there anyway? I have also been told that it is possible to drill and tap the ends of these heads for accessory holes. I am going to trade them in for a lesser price in July, but maybe you want them? They have 62 cc combustion chambers and I have had them cleaned and pressure tested. So far I have invested $190 in them but they lead to quite high compression on a 350; with a 283 crankshaft the compression ratio might be street worthy. Send me an e-mail if your are interested, I will let you have them for my cost of $190 plus shipping.

Back to the 0-60 times of the V8-914, that is amazing and I guess the slippage in the auto-trans of the Magoo '29 roadster accounts for the difference, but it is difficult for me to see how to fit in a clutch pedal next to a power booster for the brakes, so I will just have to make do with a TH350 for now.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder