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Thread: blow by and swirly port heads.
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    dontaskagain is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    First thanks for all the replies, and to clear it up I did not do the heads or the block a engine builder who is known for doing good work was recommended to me i dropped it off and I'm relaying you all what he documented was done. So im just trying to get to the bottom of it, putting my trust he did the engine correctly
    I talked to the engine builder today he assured me the valve guides are not my issue.(still could be) I did look up the part numbers on the rings and the rest to confirm the right size was used. All good.
    I have learned from you folks alot about a leak test... my tester is misleading and its my first time doing one. It claims the green "good range" right up to 40% so I figured 20% was not terrible, but now thinking about that thats quite excessive. Leaning me towards glazed cylinders. Due to my break in. Like I said I followed the cam instructions and changed the oil right after(comp break in oil) then used 10w-30, and basically built a truck around the engine. I did make the mistake of idling over a few months maybe 30 minutes total before taking it out to the highway and ran it maybe 20 miles noticing the oil consumption. At about 1/4 Ltr.
    The amount of smoke is misleading it does not smoke on start up it does not smoke until its good and warm. And I've had vehicles that burned a hell of lot less oil with a hell of a lot more smoke when the rings are the issue. Its not dark blue its light blue and smells like fuel it also uses way to much fuel. carb is set good.
    I quess if it walks, and quacks like a duck... its a duck. But I feel like something is off here I'm not seeing. I'd hate to pull it out if I can fix this before its too late its only got 20-30 miles on it. But I can't belive the amount of oil that is disappearing even with 300000km worn out rings i haven't seen this much oil disappear and with not much smoke...
    Ps I've already confirmed its not an intake issue and I do not have any unwanted crank case pressure until its been at 180 degrees for about 5 minutes and then I start to see the puffs of steam/oil from the valve cover breather and it comes at the same time as the smoke starts to come???

  2. #2
    36 sedan's Avatar
    36 sedan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Ford Sedan, 23 T Bucket
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    Quote Originally Posted by dontaskagain View Post
    Its not dark blue its light blue and smells like fuel it also uses way to much fuel. carb is set good.
    Interesting, but not to funny!
    This could be fuel wash. What's your fuel pressure? Does your oil smell of gas?
    dontaskagain likes this.

  3. #3
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    Quote Originally Posted by 36 sedan View Post
    What's your fuel pressure? Does your oil smell of gas?
    36 sedan asked a critical question. I don't see that you mentioned what fuel pump you're using but your Edelbrock carb calls for 6.5psig (MAX), and most folks recommend keeping it below 5psig.
    glennsexton and 36 sedan like this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  4. #4
    dontaskagain is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    36 sedan asked a critical question. I don't see that you mentioned what fuel pump you're using but your Edelbrock carb calls for 6.5psig (MAX), and most folks recommend keeping it below 5psig.
    sorry for my ignorance this is my first real ground off restoration and i am learning the more advanced things the expensive way. anyways its a mechanical fuel pump a factory replacement would be my educated guess( it came when i bought the engine) but i believe they put out something in the range of 5-8psi am i right? anyways i have both bowls set at maybe 1/4 or a tiny bit less then 1/4 in the sight glass, ive played with it when i was tuning the engine and it can fill them or keep them low. so correct me if im wrong but i should be in the correct range of pressure?

    i am a little bit worried the cylinders where not honed properly for moly rings? what is the correct grit/stone for this i want to ask the builder what he did now i have learned the leak down tester is misleading giving a green "good zone" up to 40%. i am at 20%(seems a bit much as someone else mentioned) on each cylinder i preformed the test cold not sure if it would be better hot?. i could hear what sounded like a balloon filling during the test but could not pin point it at the spots to check i thought that may be a normal sound. should it be silent during the test?

  5. #5
    dontaskagain is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    if it does end up being rings have not seated properly. what do you guys think about putting in some SAE 30 non detergent and driving the piss out of it for a while? maybe moly rings need extra time to seat, again this is still new under 50 miles on the vehicle. in the past ive just had cast iron rings and never noticed any smoke ever on a new engine they seem to break in pretty much instantly.

  6. #6
    36 sedan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dontaskagain View Post
    I do not have any unwanted crank case pressure until its been at 180 degrees for about 5 minutes and then I start to see the puffs of steam/oil from the valve cover breather and it comes at the same time as the smoke starts to come???
    Is there water in the oil or visa versa?
    dontaskagain likes this.

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