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Guys - I'm putting a mid-60s "Thunderbolt" 283 back together and need to press on my harmonic balancer. I bought one online that came with a bolt, but the bolt's too big for the crank.
I tried a 5/16 bolt but that was too small and the 3/8 was too big. Huh? Any ideas?
Just a thought...could it possibly be metric rather than imperial?
Unless the crankshaft has been drilled for a non-stock bolt it should be 7/16" x 20. It's a Grade 8 bolt - use Summit Racing Harmonic Balancer Bolt Kit SUM-G1677.
I was able to cut a 3/8 by 24 thread in the crank end but I'm afraid it wasn't strong enough and I'm having to re-tap to the next larger 7/16 by 20, as the factory did on later engines. I'm having trouble getting the tap started even after drilling the hole out with my 3/8ths bit. I hesitate to use anything larger, because it'd be a 7/16ths and that won't work if I want to thread a bolt in, that size. Is there a secret to getting a tap started? Crank steel is anything but mild!
You will need to use a 25/64" (I use cobalt as it will cut the best hole) drill bit to successfully tap a 7/16" x 20 hole. I know it's only a 64th of an inch larger than a 3/8" but it makes all the difference. Use a high quality bottoming tap with lots of thread cutting oil and go very slow as breaking off the tap brings a whole new set of problems.
Good Luck!
Glenn
And do not use the bolt to press the balancer on, that's not what it's there for. Get the proper tool to install your harmonic balancer, you rent them at many auto parts stores.
Thanks so much, Guys! I'll get the bit and tap lube tomorrow, Glenn, and Jimbo, I've got that tool for pressing on the balancer, having rebuilt a previous engine.
I agree... the quickest way to bugger up threads is to not use the right tools.
UPDATE: The 25/64 bit worked perfectly and a bottoming tap gave me lots of threads. My Proform H.B. Installation Tool #66515 broke while pressing on the balancer, leaving the tip inside my crank. I can't win.
Sorry for your continuing problems with this! Curious, did you have the the outer sleeve portion tight against the end of the crank before turning the large hollow nut that pushes the balancer into place?Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaTom
Yes, everything was cinched down and the tool was in all the way.
I see there are three pipe plug holes just above the cam plug at the back of the block. They're definitely threaded and I'm assuming I need to plug those babies before adding a flywheel!
Yes, you do. Does that block have the provision for a road draft tube?Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaTom
I don't know, Ken. What would I look for to find out? The engine came out of a Canadian made '65 Studebaker and when I got it, there wan't much left.
Probably not being a 65, but if it does there will be a hole just to the left of the distributor hole looking from the rear. I'm not big on running a pcv system on an early block. The idiots in ca. killed a 57 Ford Custom with a 292 I had in 64 when I returned from overseas. They capped the road draft tube, plugged the breather and installed a pvc system. A month or so later the pressure in the crankcase was so great it blew the dip stick out it's tube, covered the right side of the windshield in oil, and for all practical purposes wiped out the bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaTom
Unbelievable, Ken! Mine does have that hole for the draft tube and, like you, I'm in no hurry to attempt a modification - especially after hearing your story! I'm sure I can locate one that'll work. (My Rambler sports a Falcon draft tube) With Veterans Day just around the corner, thank you sincerely for your service.
Here is one for I think a decent price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Impal...IAAOSwW1Bdvdov
And you'll need one of these as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Block...8AAOSwsptbzhCn
These are nice as well but a bit pricey, stay away from 55-57 valve covers as they have staggered mounting holes and the only heads from that era that are wotrh anything, IMHO, are 57 Fuelie heads that are very pricey if you could find a set.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1959-1967-C...EAAOSwWahdfEfK
Good luck and thank you
Thanks for the leads, Ken!
As it turns out, it'd been so long since I disassembled this engine, I forgot what I'd put in marked cans on the shelf. Going thru them, I found a small tube that goes into the road draft hole at the back with a long bolt to fasten it. It reduces down to a hose fitting, so I guess it does require a PCV after all.
I think the tricky part of using this engine will be in how I'm going to attach an alternator. These early GM heads, as you know, weren't drilled for accessories.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaTom
Can you post a picture of the tube? Early rams horn exhaust manifold, left side, had provision for a generator which I think you could make a mount for an alternator. Something like this but may be not quite as pricey.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-Or...gAAOSwWxxasrjL
My exhaust manifolds don't have that provision. :-( In order to post a pic on this forum, I need to hang it on a photo-sharing website, right?
No, I use the go advanced feature and use the paper clip attachment.Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaTom
I have some rams horns with the generator mount on them. I live 12 mi south of Des Moines
Thanks, Figure8, but I moved back to WA when I retired... just kept the "handle".
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vxjhycQyrbvN95v37
Trying to include a photo but can't figure it out...
Before I install my new intake manifold, I'm concerned about a rather large machined hole at the front of the valley that allows me to touch the cam timing gear when I stick my pinkie in. There's nothing but the floor of the manifold that covers it, when in place. Looks like it allows a free flow of oil. The hole is about the same size as the one for the distributor.
Also, do you guys suggest I use a sealant in addition to the rubber gaskets Felpro provided for the manifold?
file:///C:/Users/Jannelle%20Noller/Desktop/283.jpg
are you sure that's not an early Buick engine? don't recall that bore in a Chevy block
Look at this manifold https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Off...gAAOSwa5Rdyf4d
The tube left of the water bell should line up with the hole in the block.
now that works just never noticed the block like that
That hole goes straight to the pan, all early sbc's were cast in that manner.Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
Thanks, Guys! Guess it won't do any harm to find a set of valve covers with an oil hole, otherwise I'll be adding it thru the dipstick!
Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaTom
However you build the engine just make sure it can breathe otherwise all you'll build is a grenade.
Exactly! I would use one side to fill with oil and the other, a breather for this:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/14KR...ew?usp=sharing
Then use this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Roun...ss!65807!US!-1