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  • 1 Post By NTFDAY
  • 2 Post By HOSS429
  • 1 Post By jerry clayton
  • 1 Post By IowaTom

Thread: Getting the distributor to drop
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    IowaTom's Avatar
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    Getting the distributor to drop

     



    Frustrating! Just pre-lubed my engine for first start, now can't get my Speedway distributor to make that final seat. Have been fussing over it for most of an hour.
    Any ideas on getting it in? Thanks!



  2. #2
    NTFDAY's Avatar
    NTFDAY is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Try taking a large flat blade screwdriver and turning the oil pump.
    cffisher likes this.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  3. #3
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    turn the engine by hand while pushing down on the dizzy .. it is obviously contacting the cam it just needs to line up with the pump ..
    cffisher and rspears like this.
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  4. #4
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    Tom, since you've already got the distributor in and aligned with the right cam gear tooth Hoss429's suggestion would be the way I would go - simple and easy. If you want to pull it and start over, then the approach DennyW gave is on target, and I've done it that way when I needed to move a tooth to get the distributor aligned once the timing was set.
    Looking forward to your posts of first fire, and beyond!
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  5. #5
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    Just bump the motor around till it drops in, then bring motor back to tdc #1 to rough- set the timing.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  6. #6
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    Denny's method is best here and will eliminate those pesky back fires thru carb or knocking starter Bendix or ring gear teeth off--------

    But a little additional tip for wantabes---------put the engine at #1 on compression stroke( Not cam overlap position)------look at bottom of dist shaft to see where the notchdrive tab (GM/Mopar apps-Ford uses hex shaft) for the oil pump is orientated, and which way you need to lead it for the gear tooth angle, use the big flat blade screw driver for turning the oil pump drive shaft to a position with a little lead for the position the dist will be in located with the vacume advance in correct oem position, back the dist shaft off the amount of angle of half gear tooth , and lower dist straight into location so that rotor will turn to #1 wire location as installed-------a little wiggle may be necessary--------lightly tighten hold down clamp just enough to allow you to be able to twist the dist with some resistance,now back crank up to the desired initial timing number, adjust dist to where the points are just starting to open or if HEI to where the relucteris centered on the pointed part of the wheel-------install cap and wires(correct rotation and firing order is an absolute requirement), prime carb (Float levels and fuel pressure correct)--------start engine--should fire off within 2 complete rotations and idle fine--------yes , it takes a little practice doing this and being very precise with your methods, but, it your working on someone elses stuff day in and day out, you can't be sloppy about how you do it or how long it takes----------oops, they just called your class to the line and I hope you did a good job of setting the valves when you put the cam/heads on--------
    DennyW likes this.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the great advice, Guys, I got it! A few more things to do, then... standby fire extinguishers!
    rspears likes this.

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